Bansheeb0y5505

And I do take care of it well but before I owned it, it sat in a shed for 10 years blown up. And god only knows what before that. Might try the impellar and radiator, it can only help.

The gear on the impellar was fine. When it breaks up it doesn't spit out coolant. But if I do a lot of trail riding at slower paces itll start spitting coolant out. I might try one of the bigger radiators anyway since they're only $76

Hey guys. My banshee's always had this issue and after riding a few friends banshee's it's starting to really bother me and I wanna get to the bottom of it. My banshee's motor itself is healthy, good compression, jetted correctly, etc. It's always been fast (even a hair faster then a couple of my friends shee's which have a few more mods) My issue is that for the first 15 minutes or so of riding, it will run beautiful. No hesitations, no stuttering, just instant powerband. Around that 15-20 minute mark of riding, it starts to break up down low. Once it gets past the hesitation/stutter it still pulls up top really hard. The hesitation down low gets really annoying in tight trails or when im low in the RPM range.. If I let it sit for a few minutes it'll run strong down low again for maybe 5 minutes then act up again. All this leads me to believe it's some sort of heat related problem. My impellar is fine, looks to be in good shape. My father's and friend's banshee's do not overheat where we ride and generally we stay moving at a good pace. Do you think that maybe my original 89 radiator isn't flowing as good as it once did? I was looking at those oversized radiators on ebay. Or could the impellar look good and actually be shot because of little wear?

Have a really nice set of FMF's with mildly polished powercore 2 silencers, as well as a set of Boysen RAD valve reed cages. Looking to trade for a set of 916's

Had a set of these back in the day and loved them to death. Traded them for a set of mint FMF's because my DMC's were kind of beat and I love the FMF's as well, but really wish I could find a trade for another set of 916's. Miss that sound like crazy..

I just need time to diagnose everything.. unfortunately time is something I don't have with two jobs and an expensive car..

Not sure what the elevation is, it's out here in the coal region so probably higher up. But everyone I ride with that have banshee's ride in the same spots and don't have issues with their jetting. That's the troublesome part..

By the way I checked the impellar and it's in good shape, the whole coolant system is functioning properly and none of my friends or fathers banshee's have overheating issues with the riding we do so I don't believe it's related.

To this day I can get my banshee running decent but never perfect, always has some kind of hiccup. My mods include FMF Fatty's, Powercore II silencers, +4 timing plate, airbox lid removed with a K&N filter, Boysen RAD valves, and that's it. My current jetting is 270 mains, 27.5 pilots, needle clip in stock position. When it's cold, it pulls strong and doesn't hesitate or stutter. But when it's up to full operating temperature, it has no low end. It runs like shit until I get into the rev's then it pulls hard. I also foul out plugs every ride or two. I sync'd the carbs and messed with the air/fuel screws... My father has an identical setup but with a stock airbox lid still on and stock reeds. He has 260's and stock pilots and his runs PERFECT. One of the best running banshee's I have ridden. He took his lid off one day to fuck around and it popped a little from being too lean. So I figured it makes sense to go 10 up on the main jet for mine since I run open airbox (hence the 270) and I put the 27.5's in because FMF recommended it and it did help over the stock pilots. I'm at a loss here. Are the weird shape of the RAD valve reed cages messing me up? I don't know where to start at this point.

To be honest I don't know. I've been having problems tuning my bike to run properly and ive been going off my friends and my fathers who both have identical mods and stock reeds. So im just copying their setup piece for piece. Cages (the rad valve itself) are perfectly fine, if anything id change the peddles on them. Don't know if they're good or bad, but my banshee runs with them. it runs strong until it warms up then sputters bad down low and fouls plugs. So more or less I just want stock reeds on like my friends bike and then mess with the tuning. I don't know if the odd shape of the rad valves is throwing off my tuning or not.

Just as the title says. preferably local people to avoid shipping.

I totally agree. If anything, I prefer J-arms. It's less sprung weight (which = better suspension action) and the frame as a whole is lighter. I bought extended J's and like them much more then A-arms. I love when people check out my banshee and are so fascinated with the arms

I believe we have the same J-arms! J-arm <3

Alright thanks for clearing that up. Just had my curiosity. hah

We had to change the shift shaft seal on my fathers banshee, so I was powerwashing the case area. (all around the sprocket/seal) As im powerwashing, i notice some white starting to appear. I continue to finish, and for the first time noticed there is a white plastic plate with three screws there. What exactly is this for? Can't believe I never noticed it before.

J-arm's use the same shocks as A-arms. I'm running Works Triple Rates on my +2 +1 Lonestar J-arms and love them.

Fun machines. We owned one for a while, a green 2001. Just a heads up, keep an eye on the frame. Even under only slightly aggressive riding we cracked the frame in a few spots. Not the strongest for a 4x4.

Predators are fucking turds. Hence the nickname, "Predaturd" I've ridden two of them. One was a repair we were working on. Stock with a full HMF exhaust system and an intake. I was SO dissapointed. The thing felt like it made good torque, and it ran great, but honestly, it didn't feel much faster at all then my bolt-on 400ex at the time. Then I also rode a newer predaturd, with a 560 big bore, porting, and high compression. Dead honestly, it looks fast when he rides it, but when I rode it I thought it felt slow for how much work was done to it. (My banshee feels faster...) I've yet to race him. Just my honest opinion. The predators run real smooth and make for an awesome trail power range, very torquey. But not all that fast. A 450 would kill one.

haha no problem

The headpipes attach to the midpipes by a coupler like every other exhaust. Then the two midpipes attach to the canister. Basically there's two holes on the back of the canister, one for each midpipe. Each one has a groove for an o-ring and 3 studs. You put the o-ring in the groove, then slide the mid-pipe onto the studs. Bolts on with nuts.

You can look into having your head rechambered, or buying an aftermarket cool head with some higher compression domes. OR... porting. Flat out the best bang for the buck. Will make it a whole new animal.

Thanks a ton. Bolt must of vibrated loose over time and I probably lost that bracket. Looks like I gotta go order one now.

Can you possibly get a picture of this? I'm almost embarrassed making this thread as I'm pretty mechanically inclined and can usually fix everything on my own. This gas just got me confused. haha. I don't really see anywhere where a bolt can go, or a bracket over the actuator.

Where do the clip and bolt go? I looked at a breakdown online and it didn't show anything like that. And being on the left side of the case, I have a feeling that if there IS a nut in the case that holds it on, won't I have to split the cases to fix it?