FelixTheCat

We are looking forward to working on it...

IMS has 4 gallon tank that looks almost stock...and you don't have to cut your plastics...they have them on ebay...

Don't worry blanco25...Kev and I will take care of you...and you wont be disappointed with your HJR motor! trex...HJR will keep blanco25s old t-rex alive...

My YFZ front suspension including the YFZ spindle assemblies measured a tad over 17.5" fully extended. I used a set of Elka Long travel dune addition shocks I had leftover from my LT500...which measured 17.5" eye to eye...to say the least...it handles great...

Don't forget me...

Don't do it...I have an 87 Zilla sitting in my garage in pieces! I got tired of trying to keep it together...they are great quads if built right...but finding parts and getting it built right is HARD and EXPENSIVE compared to the Shee...I bought a used Shee for $2300...it's got some Herr Jugs Racing magic...and is more reliable and easier to work on than my Zilla ever was... Please...I'm begging you...DO NOT DO IT!!!!

Dont worry...I did the same thing a few weeks back...that's why I'm a caveman!

There are a few on ebay...a nice blk Clark 5.6 gal... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-Gas...sspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...sspagenameZWDVW

I'm sure Kevin and I will be out there and maybe Ron for a day trip if not an overnighter...

Prep and curing is the key to making the high temp paint stick... Light coats and a little heat cycling is the key...also no primer...If your metal is prepped and cleaned properly you wont need the primer...I've heard that you let the bike idle till you see the paint start to smoke...shut it down and let it cool...then do another heat cycle and another till the paint stops smoking...then depending on how light the coats of paint were you can spray more light coats and heat cycle them again...making sure the paint gets to the point of not smoking... it takes a while to do this... but the results are paint that doesn't flake bubble or peal... Another great paint to use is the High temp BBQ paint...

keep going east down the 78 to the Glamis Beach Store...right after the store but before the tracks you'll take a right down into the washes which run parallel to the tracks...and yes...it's the west side of the tracks...if you go over the tracks while on the 78 you've gone too far. The washes are marked by numbers painted on the wash throughputs that are under the RR track. If you go out at night a spotlight is handy to be able to see the numbers...

Gordons Well/Buttercup 8 East almost to the Arizona border... http://www.duneguide.com/sand_dune_guide_isdra_buttercup.htm

The Herr Jugs Racing crew will be at Buttercup MLK weekend...starting the 18th... We'll be celebrating Kevins 40th...so all you guys with HJR motors come on out... See ya at the hill! Fran

Correction...DRQs running the Suzuki RG500...RZ is a yamaha.

If its a helmet light ,you might want a flood light due to the fact that you are usually looking as far ahead as you can to anticipate the terrain...the flood will give you more and farther coverage but with less quality...the spot gives less coverage but more quality... Hope this helps...

With an HJR aggressive dune port by Kevin and the other mods you have you'll definitely beat the Raptor.

You cant lose with a factory silver frame...or maybe a gunmetal grey...even a titanium color would be cool...and I'd also give the a arms and swingarm the same color as you give the frame...remove any mounts or tabs that are not being used...

Run oil on the uni outers...dry they will let a LOT of dust,sand and small stones through and make more of a mess on the K&Ns than if you didn't oil...I tried a uni dry once...and regretted it! The outerwares are worth it...they keep the filters MUCH cleaner than without...

I hear BBQ paint works good... When curing it ,run the quad till the paint just starts to smoke...then shut her off,let cool and start over again...do this a few heat cycles and the paint should stay on...be sure to clean and prep the exhaust very good with acetone or some other solvent to remove the grease,grime and oil before painting...go thin even coats no primer...

Here is a link to an ebay auction for a set of the newer LTZ400 shocks...the seller measures 17" from eye to eye... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/suzuki-ltz4...1QQcmdZViewItem