Coupelx

Ask around about the work from local shops. my experience is less than good.

Ive played with sprockets and always end up with stock or near stock for the sand even with my 392 cheetah. if im gonna run alot of dirt ill go up to a 15t front.

Wheres the one of Tyler? He got up, pushed some dude out of the way and chased after the bike as it was rolling down hill.

nsk is very good. never heard of the brand but if its made in japan, run it.

dont believe so. mine didnt and the one i replaced it with didnt either. however make sure its a decent bearing. no chinese stuff.

I like the iridium plugs once you get it jetted. they run forever it seems. Fantastic for a turbo car. AS far as the timing plate it seems just recently the cast ones became an issue. Ive had one in my shitbox since like 07 or so and i bought it used. As far as the yfz shocks they are too long for the banshee and rather stiff. a minor step up from stock. been there done that.

The key does NOT keep the flywheel from turning. The taper does. the key is to simply locate it properly. Want proof of this? Go pull the drive pully/clutch off a honda odyssey, no key. You will want to install it so the flywheel is rotated counter- clockwise of its original position as you are facing it.

Trailtech regulator is the way to go here. i went through a few off random bikes with dismal results. Normally the stator gets hooked to 2 yellow wires on the regulator.

I throw some rubbers in there before i head out to fuck your ol' lady. god knows what she has.

you run the fox rear too?

mountain bike doesnt have an engine. so no thanks. Ive had a hardon for the fox stuff for awhile. someday ill get to try out a set. pretty much everyone who actually runs them, loves them i think. As far as the stage 3 vs 5 comment

i tied my filters together to keep them away and im running chunky UNI filters. and yes 71hp? FFS thats embarassing.

no.

how did you like the trinity pipes? i have a set im gonna swap out with my R2's. rumor is they work well on the cheetahs despite the rather small stinger size.

any particular reason you decided on a TZ bearing?

Is everything in the center pressed together tight?

If that thing runs anything like my wildcard 392 its gonna be fun!

Im running a ported 392 cheetah on 34pj carbs. 145 (i think) mains and 55 pilots. It needs more carb as its still rich even with the small mains in it. Love my cheetah, its got a wide smooth powerband. I hope to do some more tuning on the powervalves, maybe mess with springs in it. Like i mentioned before the best thing you can do is drill the bleed jets out to .125 (1/8 inch) its about the biggest you can reasonably go without getting into the thread. This is also the "lag" people experience and i think part of the problem with alot of cheetahs not "putting out". the valves cant react fast enough as the engine comes onto the pipe.

Correct. the stock cdi box does not have a rev limiter and is the best option for the majority of people.

no need to apologize for yourself.

You arent good at alot of things. It was a solution looking for a problem, like alot of parts on the market. ALOT of cars use plastic waterpump impellers now. BMW comes to mind as one.

the impeller floats in its bearing allowing it to rub in the housing. this is why yamaha used a plastic impeller. as far as an improvement in cooling? Look elseware as sprinklerman mentioned.

I know lots of guys that run the stock plastic covers on their drag bike!

New stock yamaha > billet. they are plastic for a reason. IF you got the engine hot enough to score the cylinders, low compression would make it hard to start.

You would assume so, but shit happens i guess. i dont know what rods andy started using on his cranks which was why i was curious. You really have 2 options, rods or pistons.