Olds Eddie

If you do away with the key switch, be sure to ground the switch wire or it won't start.

Fixed at last! I re-wired the shee with the factory manual as a guide so when I took it back apart to re-check I used the diagram for the simplified harness in the back of the 'Wiring FAQ' on BansheeHq. I had thought that the key switch wire was like the kill switch circuit so I had left the red/black loose from the ground. This site is awesome!

Thats what started it all. I cleaned up the wiring harness to remove the tors wiring. It was running fine before I did that so the firest thing I did was take the harness back apart to re-check the wiring. I guess I'll do it again as I have done everything but replace the CDI box, pulse coil, stator and flywheel.

I have compression, fuel and spark. The spark is small but white. It dosen't seem to occur every kick but it does spark. I have replaced the coil and plug caps as well as plugs. I have verified the pulse coil gap as well as checking the resistance of both the source coil and the pulse coil per the ignition FAQ. It just dosen't seem to be firing all the time- only occasionally. What do some of you Guru's think I am missing?

Thanks for the advice. Found the needles for $8 each!

I need to replace both needle and seat valves on a Shee with stock carbs. I went to the local Yahama 'Stealer' and the parts guy quoted me $38 and he would have to order them. Surely somebody has them cheaper. I really only need the needles if there is a source for them by themselves.

If I interpret the parts correctly you plug up the spark plug holes, exhaust, and carb spigot on one side while putting compressed air to the other carp spigot with leakdown guage adaptor. Did you make your own spigot adaptor and plug?

Ring gap is within spec. (.30-.45mm) I filed and chamfered them myself. Head gasket has been re-done 3 times since I started this investigation. What else can it be. It ran great before I did some wiring and wouldn't restart afterwards. That's when I checked the compression. It had been leaking unfiltered air around the filter which took out the fresh rings. I honed and re-ringed her and still low compression. I'm stumped!

Thanks for the reply. I am using a Snap-On comp tester with valve at the guage. I used it on my sbc 400 in my fishin' boat to see if it was accurate and it seemed to be. I have done everything I can think of but replace the reeds. One of them has a burned spot on it that can be seen through the carb spigot, so that is why I suspect it is reeds.Will reeds make the compression that low? (57-65psi)

I have checked everything I know to ckeck and after totally redoing my top end with Wiseco Pro Light pistons I still have low compression (60-67). I checked it with a known good compression checker and no carbs installed. I have the right pistons installed correctly and re-honed the cylinders. Engine has not been started yet since I fitted new rings and reassembled it. Will reeds cause low compression? Any other ideas?

Does the 40deg neck help clear the pipes or do I want them straight? I have a good friend in the MC business and they give me deals so I will have to order from them. Also are the K&N filterwraps any better than outerwares. They are double the price.

I am going to be upgrading to K&N podsa and wanted to know which ones fit the best. I am running stock carbs which have 43mm air horns. Any suggestions?

I pulled her back apart and they are marked 513's. The pistons come within about a 32nd of an inch of reaching the top of the bores. Could Wiseco have marked them wrong?

I had the same symptoms when I first got my Shee. I threw a barnet clutch in it and still had slippage. It took new rear tires with aggressive tread to cure.

Well I found my old solder which is thick enough for this test and guess what. My squish is exactly 2mm! I guess that means wrong pistons.

As far as I know it has stock porting. I think it has aftermarket reeds. I plan to do solder trick next. What should this clearance be?

Well I lapped the head and it did appear warped. I sterilized the mating surfaces and installed an OEM head gasket. After torqing the head in three stages I decided to do a compression check. Both cylinders showed 57psi. The pistons are installed correctly and I checked my compression guage for accuracy. I am out of ideas other than removing the cylinders and checking for stuck rings. Would stuck rings cause this much of a compression loss on a 2 smoke?

I plan to lap the head on a piece of thick glass and reinstall with factory head gasket. I'll let you know what happens. How much could I mill it and still run pump gas?

Thefirst thing I checked when it wouldn't start was the spark. Since it was very weak I installed a new coil. When it still wouldn't start with a strong spark I started looking at fuel and othjer issues. Thats when I discovered that the compression was low on both cylinders. I have pulled the head and the bore looks like a newly rebuild engine should look. Looking at the rings from the exhaust port I find nothing out of whack. It dosen't look like the head was resurfaced when the work was done and since the rebuild was caused by the impellor failure and subsequent piston meltdown I would think that the head is warped. How much can you mill it and still run 93 octane pump gas?

I had a cast piston come apart due to a bad W/P impellor. I had ridden it very little before I parked it and worked on the wiring. It was running great when I parked it and then refused to start after I did wiring harness.

If you have followed my other threads you will know that my shee has just been freshened with new Wisco forged pistons and after rewiring it has refused to start. I did a compression test using a Snap-On compression tester and holding the throttle open while kicking it till the needle refused to go higher. At that point I had 60psi in one and 65 in another. I pulled the head and the cylinder walls looked like you would expect them to with no time on them to speak of. Would a leaking head gasket cause this low compression all at once?

I like my crow with a little salt and Heinz 57. I decided to do a compression test on this 'just rebuilt top end' moter and It explained everything. 60 PSI just wont run. The guy that did the work is a very experienced motorcycle mechanic that I have known for years so I took it for granted that it couldn't be the top end. This shee ran outrageous the day I took her apart to do the wiring. It had not been more than a half dozen laps around the house with cool downs between runs to break in the new top end. He says the rings could be stuck. I'll know soon enough as I am going to pull the cylinders off asap.

I live on a mtn. and do most of my riding at 3200-3800. When I ride in the valley with friends I just lower the needle clip a notch to richen' her up a little. I dought you would need to change jets unless needle clip is already at the top or bottem groove. This is a lot easier to do if the TORS is removed.

NAPA