RagunCajun

If you do the ac/DC converter and using a cdi relocation bracket, Mount the tank, bracket and steering stem. You'll need to drill new holes because the converter goes where the little box with the blue wire goes. That box is deleted

found it. It's a 7/8-14 I went to the same hardware store and tried SAE sizes since you mentioned 1". I thought American aftermarket ATV companies like tusk/G-froce probably uses SAE and i was right. They only had a castle nut. The overall length is much longer but ill extend two slots with my Dremel so i can use a cotter pin. Thanks for the help. Hopefully this will help others, ill try to edit the thread title with the size.

I was and still am ignorant about LED's. I got sheerider(Gary) to fab me up some brackets so the eBay China made LED's can be bolt on. I got a ac/DC converter box off eBay. Then I had Kompulsive Concepts make me a custom wiring harness so everything was plug and play. If you look at my build thread, you can see pictures. Gary and Cory were a pleasure to deal with. Kompulsive Concepts has my business until he quits.

That's exactly what i have minus the pads and new internals. I have brand new raptor pads sitting here. I'll put those in and rebleed. Thank yall for the help and sry about off topic OP.

My oem never did as well. Probably worn out pads and rotors for sure. I wasn't debating yfz450 vs oem brakes. Just making sure mine are working correct. I don't ride has hard as anyone here I know. I have braided lines and jds rotors so I'll bleed them more. Man it sucks having to trailer a bike to go ride somewhere and test something out. Off topic, I wish I knew who recommended a 29" universal steam line rear kit for my +6. The line is way too long.

Should my front wheels lock up when I hit the front brakes hard with yfz450 calipers on field road? Trying to get a feel on how my new brakes should work. I'll made sure I replied them to make sure there's no air

That would be fine to hold my off until i can get the correct one. I wont be going ride today. I'm not going ride around for hours looking for a nut, most places are closed. I have stuff to do on the bike. I will email some places who sell the axle and see if i can get some parts. Is there a washer that goes before the nut? I dont mean the spacer to extend width. -edit. I just got off a chat online with a RMATV chat representative. Tusk is their in house brand and the tusk axle is exactly like the old gforce axles. Their next shipment of nuts is June 10th. I gave him my email. If the guy finds out what kinda nut it is exactly, he will shoot me an email. Worth a shot till i found out.

Does Tusk make the same exact axle now? Seems tusk sells exclusively through RMATV. No contact info on their site. Ima Try to find a nut locally in the meantime.

I cant find one of my axle nuts that hold on the hub. It's a big gold castle nut that holes on he hub itself and you put the cotter pin through it. It's on a gforce banshee axle. If anyone knows the size, ill try to find a nut local and just use some washers.

Ill try lower pressure. Ill grab a tire marker from work to make sure the wheels dont spin inside the tire. I do not have bead locks. So far i am liking my gearing.I have a brand new 16t front in the parts stash i was going to try first. The bike is a lot to take in at once. With the low end the 521's make, there's no need to rev them to the moon so IMO taller gearing is doable. The speed in 5th and 6th is just unnecessary for what i do so time will tell. I'm sure ill slap the 16t on the front sooner or later. Do you do a lot of WOT runs in 5th and 6th with your 521 cub?

I went ride by the folks today with the bike. First of all, i need a bigger truck. Bike barely fits in my b2300. My folding ramps are too narrow which freaking sucks. I just man handled it in the bed. When i got home, the wife said my bro in law said i can use his trailer so that's a win/win. I will just go buy a tow package. Here's a quick picture from today to show off the powder coating color in sunlight. http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02125_zpshugfjjaa.jpg Now on to ride impressions. I spent about 15 min on the bike. It's not a long time but i did want to visit with my dad and eat supper. The bike has a lot of low end. It will fight traction before the powerband. This is with about 9psi in the rear tires. I checked when i got home so this is promising. I'm going to try 6psi for the next outting. Getting back to the power delivery, it's very smooth. Nothing like a light switch power band at all. But dont read that was weak. It's down right ridiculous. 1-5th is a joke. As for 6th, i didnt get much into it. It's weird having 6th gear again. However, it's nice to be able to back load the trans.The bike still feels like a banshee even with that massive bottom end cummins like tq on the low end. If i hold the throttle right before the power, the bike kinda shakes. Amazing. I cant comment on over rev because i didnt beat on it too much while im very new to the whole build. So far i like the shocks. There's nothing rough so it's all overkill but that's not a bad thing at all. I did not try to launch it from a dead stop. I'm going to bring my pro wedges when i go ride again and see how those are. IF they work good, i will get some 4-snow tires from Maxxis. The promod is something i will have to get use to. From my memory, it feels very good. I can only compare it to my 02 yz250. It's very easy to shift up or down. I dont even have to click the shifter all the way up before it's in the next gear. I dont miss not having neutral down liike i thought i would. Neutral is getting easier and easier to find. I have road a bike in a couple years so that's expected. Special thanks to loco for recommending the tires for me. Same goes for the gearing. I'm running a 15/41 combo right now. It seems good so far. I may order a stock length swing arm in the future for when my CST pulse tires are on. The turning radius is kinda big but i can whip it around im sure with a blimp of the throttle. Speaking of throttle, the stock with billet extender freakin sucks. My short thumbs have trouble reaching it with the added space these ODI bold on grips require. I'm ordering a honda throttle asap. I'll do a honda throttle and if it's still too far for my liking, i'm going back to regular glue on grips. From what i remember this exhaust is far more louder than my old SBIF cpi's i had for years. I'm not complaining though. I'm going to try to get some video this weekend if i can get a camera man.

Just went for the maiden voyage in my sub division. Holy crap. The low end is unreal. Dont know how mid-top end. It just lights up the tires mean while pulls like no tomorrow. I cant wait to get it to my folks place to ride in the field. I'm very glad i didnt do a 4mil like i was going to do. No video cept the wife's cell phone of my putt putting off for a few seconds. edit* I also wanted to add i thought the engine would be very lazy. For example seem slow to rev, throttle response etc. I couldnt be more wrong. Throttle response is instant. The power is timit or brutal on command. I thought with shearers, it would not have any low or mid and be similar to a cub. WRONG. It seems to have more low than 450's. But maybe its because i didnt ride a atv in 2-3 years. I am VERY glad i did full suspension and upgraded what i could. I now understand why people said +6 may not be enough. This bike will take some time to get used to.

Thank you!!!!!

What year/model Honda thumb throttle open up 39's and is easier than a stock Yamaha thumb throttle with billet thumb part. On FB said the 250rs is what I need.

I have the same thing. I think ill just rattle can it if i do anything. I dont think i can gut it to powder coat it. I do want to pick up an asv lever for it though. Until then, the stock lever will do.

I appreciate the advice. I ride dirt/grass fields. So if pods help, I will get some. No rocks, roots etc. Just open fuel roads I keep moving so it shouldn't over heat. I run 50/50. If for example I do donuts or something that does have air through the radiator, I'll go for a low Rpm 5th or 6th run to cool it off. I believe I already have the impeller and I do have an over sized China radiator. Any other ideas good or bad, I appreciate. It helps regardless.

Who cares which way the bars are. It's gonna make so much power, you won't be able to hold on.

Will do. There's very little talk about it on here. I will compare my OEM with steel braided line to the Brembo so the only difference will be the Brembo caliper. I'm putting a brand new JDS rotor too. I did the best i could within reason on brakes. I've come so far in this build and i have a lot of stuff left to buy for my final vision to come true. It will be worth it to me though.

I'm hoping that will be needed. I'm still having doubts the tires will hook with it stretched out +6. We will see. At worse, i've got my old pro wedge 2's in the shed on stand by for strait line fun. If not, ill get a stock length swing arm. It's a play bike, not a drag bike. I'm looking forward to feeling how this pro mod shifts considering i took out a healthy dunable override i loved to death. Small update for today. At lunch break, i tightened up a few things on the rear of the bike.When i got home from work this evening, all i did was cut the chain to size. Then tightened the bolts to the carrier housing to hold it snug. Then i put some brake fluid in the yfz450 front resi and bleed the front brakes. That didnt take long at all with my vacuum pump. I was going to take the maiden voyage with only front brakes, however id hate to have the front end come up and not be able to have a rear brake. I am going to throw on my old rear brake set up for now with some brand new pads until i can order the Brembo set up. That's all for today. Tomorrow a few missing OEM specific parts come in ill put on.

I didn't have time to shorten the chain. Plus if the chain was on, Ida went riding down the street. Front brakes don't have fluid. Bad idea. The smurf dildo stuff is high temp sleeve. I didn't know it would come in blue. I'll run full rear fenders so it will be hidden.

finally photobucket works http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02123_zpsvsvwtfvr.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02122_zpstr7nzoh7.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02121_zpsisxvh42x.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02120_zpsapcco6pr.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02117_zpsnlkxze7w.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02116_zpswmyeblye.jpg edit* it's down for maintenance. Be patient.

Rolled it out earlier. Couldnt help throw the wheels on. Not finished by far but you get an idea. Once photobucket stops being slow as molasses, ill post pictures. But like i said, it's not done.

so it's mostly part 15 which pulls out from the outside? The clip is there. That would explain why i cant pull it out from the inside. Pays to look it up first before i destroy it.

seat cover on http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02111_zpsfeblhxqj.jpg Came out good enough considering i never did it before. Now ima go wrench. I'm debating throwing on my stock rotor so i can ride thing today. My new rotor be here until Tuesday. I have to figure out why my LED's dont shut off, and button up a few things. Can anyone tell me what the piece is called that missing. It's for the cooling system. I bought a polished cover from Phelps. I want to buy a spare piece like that just in case i damage mine taking it out my sold case. I have a spare clutch cover gasket, water pump gas, bearing and seal so my old clutch cover is staying on until i have that piece in my hand. On the exploded views on OEM part sites, it isnt listed unless like usual, i missed it.

a tune on a boosted diesel is more noticeable than a gas engine truck. that's what i meant.