RagunCajun

Buy a known reliable crank the first time. Hot rods.

Both sold.

I got a 100+ hp play bike and I don't care how fast it goes. I just care about power delivery so I can play around. I'm not trying to do 100+ mph

At least you tried yourself. Depends on where the error is, they may be able to patch it. I wouldnt do a plug. I wouldnt trust a patch for long trips away from your truck though.

Rockymountainatvmc.com but any oem seller has them. It's cheap. It's the same kind the bike comes with. There's only one. You do have two grease zerks on another part of the swing arm or shock linkage as well. Just buy an assortment pack of grease zerks. For oem you'll pay about 3-5 per zerk. That's stupid. Same for Cotter pins.

aI rode stock suspension since i got my banshee maybe in 2008 or earlier. Aftermarket a-arms and shocks are worth it! and that's coming from someone who had MAYBE 20-25min seat time on this suspension. I kinda wish ida got stage 5's but i looked at the price last night. $3000! I was going to sell my brand new 3's for 5 but nope!

looks fun. what engine mods?

I have an on going two year build thread I'm finishing up. I haven't had any problems. If you don't let the trolls get under your skin, there's really good info.

I had that issues with my old set up. I geared it to take off in 1st. But i did have a n-down 1-5 dunable.....which is for sale now wink wink.

cascade. cant beat their prices. Call them with colors you have in mind and they send free samples. Worked for me.

On a drag race, maybe you are sucking a fuel bowl dry. That happened to me. It was a float issue.

There's a lot of specialty bolts, collars and washers the bolt kit from Alloyboltz doesnt come with. There's the bolt with the grease zerk for the swing arm, steering stem washer and collar on the bottom, collar for the front hubs, washer/spacer thing that locks to the nuts on the rear sprocket, washer that you fold over for the front sprocket That's just a few things. I replaced all bearings. Front wheel hubs(pressed in), swing arm, swing arm linkage, steering stem and whatever else there is. Most if not all of those come with new seals with the bearings for the all balls kits. If you have an aftermarket swing arm, some swing arm bolts will not work, they will be too long. However, i made do with most. I used OEM stuff else where. Things like a cheap tap/die set help out too. I had to chase the threads on the two engine stays under my engine last night. PITA but it worked and saved my cases. You need a jar of any seize and lock tight too. An assortment of stainless steel cotter pins is nice to have as well. I changed all my brake pads and bought new rotors.

I tried for weeks to get ahold of cotton brand. Went with the other guy who started making case savers.

Make sure you insure it if he ships it. I put around 7k insurance on just my engine. Do you have all new bearings, your specially shims, bolts etc all ready to go? It's amazing how many times I had to order little things.

Brakes are on, hour meter and a couple other miscellaneous things. I have to run to the hardware store tomorrow. I need a long bolt to install the front of my nerf bars to the frame. The bolt goes through the top of the two hole on the lower engine mounts. The mounts near the exhaust flange. Previously I just didn't secure the engine with the top bolts and used those solely for the nerf bars. With the power now, I do not want to risk that. So it needs a longer bolt to go through and I'll just use a washer, lockwasher and nut.

I been wanting that for months. Thanks for the info. Looks like I'll rebuild my stock one. Now what's else I can spend money on that I'll notice ... Fast Flex bars!

Any info on brembo rear caliper vs stock? I'd like to know before I drop $280 on that and regret it.

I just installed my hour meter last night. They are only $30. The center exhaust is nice. Id like something sort of like the DMC's if i could. I cant wait to hear those BB pipes you have.

That's an ugly looking expansion chamber. Looking forward to result! 120 or bust.

I have a neutral down 1-5 no sixth gear dunable override. Comes with springs and everything seen in pictures. Does have light rust on some spots. It sat in a shed for a year and then in my house for another year. It was cut by a forum member on heres buddy so it wasnt done by a big name shop. I bought it in early 2010. Ran fine until the day i took it out. 4 years of abuse on a 60-65ish bike and it only worn the shift forks a little. I have a pro mod now so i dont need it. Ill give the buyer 7 days from when it arrives to install and try it out. If it does not work good, i will refund the full amount plus $25 to cover return shipping and trans fluid within 24 hours of the day i get the trans back. Price is $300 shipped. http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02141_zpsbigyvl3d.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02140_zpsaptgsawe.jpg Noss head. Was on the bike when i got it. Looks terrible. It's purple. Ill hit it with carb cleaner to clean it before i ship it. Will refund money plus $20 to cover oring/a-corn kit/shipping once i get the head back within 24 hours of the day i get the head back. Price is $55. You do not get domes nor orings/nuts/washers http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02142_zps8lk6fd4l.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02144_zps04k43nlb.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02145_zpss0wbpxtm.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02146_zpsdn5q1tqk.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff111/raguncajun/DSC02147_zpsrvmnjcjw.jpg you pay fees on eveything. Shipping is included. Only thing im looking for currently to consider a trade is a full bore white rear fender that is near mint and is uncut and a brembo rear banshee brake caliper.

That was a idle video, not a review on pipes. Regardless, im looking forward to more video! If there's no air leaks(you did a leak down test right!) and carbs cleann, fuel clean it should idle fine. Unless there's an electrical gremlin. Ride the thing and see.

Good points. I won't do it. Now to sell my old duneable override and head to get some mod money.

The bike is looking good. It would be a good time to relocate the CDI and delete the key. I also believe in tether kill switches too.

Someone with an override

Finishing I my brake install. Turns out I'll have to use my old rear pads until I can get the brembo caliper. Oh well. I'm in the process right now on changing my front brake pads. They are raptor 700 calipers and of course raptor 700 pads. Does any one here use some sort of brake grease on the screws the pads slide on? We do that at work on brake jobs on cars and trucks it is a must. I won't do it to my front pads if it will hurt it. It isn't regular bearing great that will get hot and leak. It's specially made stuff. We actually use Nissan dealership brake grease which is $60.00 for a little jar. I can take it home tomorrow and slap some on real quick while my front is apart. Im shutting the shed down for tonight until I see what yall say about this. I'll continue tomorrow.