yfzdunejumper

one more old timer just lurking here

You will see it on the case next to the part that breaks off if you have a chain break.

Who ported it? The pictures wouldn't come up for me is there a pic of the cylinders?

I have not been on any Banshee site for a long time. I have been thinking about breaking out my banshees lately and got on the site to see what's up. With 5 pages of thoughts I don't have the hour it would take me to read it all so I will just give my opinion im sure I will be agreeing with some of you. $200 for a shield is a good price. Shields are great guns and if you also have a bodyguard they are a great combo since everything is in the same place. You should always train with your CCW so its just instinct not thought. I stated carrying in 2003. I have many ccw's and have carried them many ways. I am a IWB carry guy for the same reason Im am not an open carry guy. Like locogato said I don't want to be the first one shot. Its also why I hesitate to wear gun shirts or even camouflage. I LOVE LOVE my sig 938. Its one of the smallest 9mm's and bullet size counts. If I know Im going to get in a gun fight I don't go. If I know im in a sketchy place I wear my 938 since my shot gun is to big. Since I do my best to not put my self in that situation I find my self carrying the first CCW gun I bought a KEL TEC .380 because of its size and comfort. I am not recommending a keltec I have maybe 10 hours of gun smithing to make it shoot every time I pull the trigger but the frame is the way to go. I recommend the LCP frame (I have not put my hands on a LCPII but I image its that much better) for shooters or the bodyguard (just a touch bigger). With the belt clip you don't even need a holster. I clip mine on my waste band or my front pocket. In your pocket it looks like a knife. Again the sights suck on the LCP and the trigger is not great but they are not for targets they are CCW's. Way back when they changed the laws here in Missouri I did a bunch of research on what I should get. I am a big fan of .45's so I was leaning that way but read a forum post from an old timer and it always stuck with me. In it he wrote he felt way more safe with his .380 in his pocket than he did with his .45 in his glove box. He went on to explain the size of his 1911 was making him take it off for comfort when driving. He would then find him self just running in to a store "real fast" and not grabbing his gun out of laziness. 15 years after I read that I still feel it was to best advice I could have found.

POST PICTURES! Wish I could be there!

I am looking for someone that is coming for the BHQ ride from Chicago or Michigan area that would have room and time to swing by New Buffalo, Michigan and pick up a Motorcycle to deliver to the BHQ ride. Of course I will pay.

$500 without seat and billet grill

He says he plans to sand it down and do his own paint job if he cant sell it by this weekend. He is looking for good condition unpainted plastic also

I know a guy looking to sell this used plastic for $650. pm me if interested

$30 sent to paypal for 1 of the kickers

I will take the kicker shipped to 64116. Pm me your pp or however you want paid.

located approximately 20 east of Kansas City. Take exit 24 on I-70. Go South approximately 2 miles to Old US 40 Highway. Turn east (left) on Old US 40 Highway (next to Casey's General Store). Go approximately 3/4 mile to track entrance. http://thundervalleysanddrags.com/track_info.html

I think everyone is right but Cam has the best point. You are getting more than just motor work with K&T they will help you with your setup and make you as fast as possible. I know they will be happy to help you out.

It wont hurt your epoxy just your pistons....lol. Make sure when setting it up you talk to someone that can explain how to use alky as your fuel. With n2o some say never use alky get a seperate tank of gas to spary with the n2o. We have never had a problem with alky and that is what everyone in my group uses with n2o. If yopur still thinking about a dry system you might give boondocker a call, their tech support is really good. Im not sure (really not sure it may or may not) how well alky will work with there system. With Boondocker you get fuel by pressurizing your carb and forceing more fuel in but since alky already uses x2 fuel as gas im not sure how well it will work. Call them they will know for sure. I get all my advice and buy all my stuff from GT Performance. PM me if you need his #

In my head I always feel safe at %50 nitrous (N2O) compared to the motors hp. So if you have a 100 hp banshee to stay on the safe side no more than a 50 hp shot that is 25 hp a hole. Stock reeds are better for N20. I have had luck with the boondocker (dry system) and would play around with it again but to do it right you will want a wet system. Setup right is the key and setting up the carb with the hydrocy$qwemeter for the dry systems can be a pain IMO. WARNING N2O is highly addictive and you won’t ever want to ride when your tank is empty. You will need plenty of extra tanks and a refill station for camp.

X2 vote for the A.R. SD23 without a burnout

I wouldn’t have a problem using a wcr transmission. I think they do a good enough job on transmissions. I just wouldn’t want to be in a position where I had to trust anything they told me that includes giving them money and waiting for something. Through a vender that wcr deals with all the time would be the way to go IMO. I personally hope he drops a transmission on his bare foot today for the raw deal he did to me.

A wheelie bar would be nice and when you get more paddles you will need one. But for now if you can put a rear strut on that would help with launching. If you wait till you see a green light you will be way slow. Work on timing the light. Depending on the light speed a sportsman tree I go as soon as the third light starts to lit or a pro tree the second you see yellow drop the clutch. DONT BE AFFRAID TO RED LIGHT. Red lighting is when you go to early. If or when you red light don’t worry about it make the pass and get back in line. Staging can be important to stay consistent. At first you will want to stage "shallow". That is as soon as the second light lights up stop don’t go any "deeper". I would say working on all that would make a good first day at the track but if you want to do it right you won't be afraid to change your gearing to see what works best. But really unless your semi constant you won’t know if what you did worked. I would start with just working on having fun and learning to be consistent. You will also want to be careful if you hang around the track to long you will end up broke..... Breaking out is for index or bracket racing. Index is set speeds ALL bikes racing in that index class has to stay between and Bracket you set the time and can’t go any faster or you break out and loss the race. For example in a bracket race if you set your time for 4.5 and the person in the other lane sets his for 5 seconds his light would turn green .5 seconds before yours (be care not to go on his light). The first one to the end as long as they don’t go faster than the time they set wins…

I love cubs best bang for the buck period!!! I know you have a lot of time and effort in getting yours to where it is. I would assume you have found its full potential (rather you run it there or not). How long has that super cub been tuned on and does he have tuning skills? You take the same builder on the cub and super cub I bet the super cub wins. I own a 10 mill super cub cylinder I have been thinking about building but I might go bigger I wouldn’t consider going smaller. I know it’s not all about cc's but you put the same amount of time and skill in to the larger cc I bet it will be faster....

I think you should do the real comparison. I would take a 4mill supercub over a 4mill cub and if you have a 10 mill crank I would take a 10mill super cub over a 10 mill cub. Take every cc you can get IMO

Nice looking banshee. Pinch bolts on the bottom and on the strut for the top

It would be unfair in a 400cc 4 stroke class but its unfair to you to have to race in a 700+ 2 stroke class. I bet you are confused on the classes. If they let you race in the 400cc class do it! Its not your fault they didn't buy a banshee

Doing 100+mph on any surface on an ATV is thumb up in my book

Stock head pipes do that.