banshee dave

ok,I just bought fmf fatty gold series pipes and the q silencers. I installed them and solved my problems. runs great now. I think the pipes I had on it were big bore pipes which I wasn't told that when I bought them. I was under the assumption that they were top end pipes but for small bore. oops. Oh, I also still have to rejet. Thanks for the help guys!

I ran a compression test on both cylinders and both are 150 psi. I don't know if it should be higher or lower at my elevation but I have a cool head with 19 cc domes with weisco pro light pistons. I still need to drop the mains down because I fouled the plugs which I figure was the missing on the left cylinder and the pipes are way to big for my settup, I will be getting pro circuit pipes shotly and I hope that was or is my whole problem. thanks for everyones thoughts and help.

ok this is what I have done so far. Took the carbs apart and cleaned them really well, I have a parts washer and I blew them off with my compressor, put them back together and reinstalled them. the reeds are also fine. took the timing back down to +4 where I had it for the past few years and stated it back up. I ran worse then before. What I think is wrong, oh and the left cylinder is still running richer than the right so I am going to drop the main this weekend, but what I think the biggest problem is is the exhaust pipes(RDZ inframe drag pipes) are too big for my motor . I think they aren't allowing the motor to run right. I was never able to get on the pipes even at full throttle on long staight fire roads or even able to get into sixth gear without bogging. I think the pipes are gonna go on ebay and I'm going to get some FMF pipes.

my jetting is 162 mains on both carbs and pilots on both are 42. It starts on first kick every time.

I went riding this past sat. I put new plugs in before going out. Over the winter I installed 34 mm PJ Keihen carbs, new billit intakes without the crossover tube ports, an aluminum intake with K&N filters. I am running RDZ inframe drag pipes with modified DG silencers to be able to run the airbox. I'm not sure of the mains, I think they are 155 or 165 and the pilots are 47.5 I think. I will pull them and check what is in there. I also shortend up the wiring and relocated the cdi under the gas tank. the problem I am having is when I was out riding the right cylinder was running great, the plug was tan. the left side on the other hand was cutting in and out and when the right was running great the left would sound as if it was idleing, i.e the ping ping ping sound of a two-stroke and the plug was black,wet and sooty looking. I am running the timing at +7 but I am going back down to +4. when I got home and started it up I noticed a ton of smoke coming out the left pipe and not so much out the right and the USFS screen on my left sparky was wet looking. The cylinders are ported and they seem to run great when I had the stock carbs and airbox with uni filter. it was hard to start with the stock carbs and wasn't running to it's potential so I upgrade my parts with crappy results . any help would be great

I live about 20 minutes from both RDZ racing and RB racing. I never had any work done by either of them. I have talked to a guy close to RDZ and was told he is stupid expensive but does know his stuff! I recommended a few of my friends to RB racing because I heard he is good also and reasonable in his prices plus he is within easy driving distance. they own 250r hondas and they love the port work bob did for them. good luck :cool:

MOTOCROSS BOOTS. I have burn scars on both legs. Several burns. Now I wear boots, with or without shorts. :thumbsup:

you may need to get new o-rings for your pipes also and some new pipe springs. mine looked like that when my pipe came off at the header. ran a little lean and burned it up. do you have any scatches in the bore? on the exhaust side? if they don't come out with only a hone, than I would get them rebored. Don't buy factory pistons, their heavier, may not be the same weight and they seem to break to easly when abused( ran hard) if you do just do a rehone, check the pattern on the cylinder walls when you are done. if you have more of a cross-hatch on one side of the cylinder than the other than you bore isn't round and you will need to rebore. my 2 cents

I don't know about the boyesen reeds because I went from stockers into vforce3s. I love them. The only thing I had to do to mine was port match them to my aftermarket intakes. After that, holy cow the throttle responce was there. I can't wait till I get my exhaust fixed up right and get a chance to see how it runs. :biggrin:

28 nm or 20 foot pounds

he's right, some of the stuff that I used at my shop(lock-tite brand) could glue some stuff together that otherwise couldn't be glued. I don't know if it is availible to the general public but defenitly read the label.

there is a light duty green loc-tite that I would use instead of blue. sometimes blue can work like red especially in aluminum, but thats me.it would be easier to remove.

how do you like the 71 ts125. i have a 72 tc125 which I have been working on for the last 6 years(finding parts) and it's almost done.

I had the same problem with my DG pipes. I don't use them anymore but when I did, I always had it on reserve also. never ran out of gas, but I always checked after a while to make sure I had some.

mine never did it until I installed a new billit basket and barnett clutches. I adjusted mine to the yamaha service manual also. I think when you remove the o-rings it moves the frictions and steals closer together causing them to rub more even if you adjust the pressure plate correctly. one of my other problems that I have encountered with my setup is I use the heavy duty springs. I don't have a problem pulling the stiff springs in but the stock clutch cable took a beating and streached out and I think that also has a factor in the lurching. I need to replace mine and you should check yours also. my two cents

RDZracing.com they are located in fowlerville mi. he does 95 pecent banshees and blasters.

sorry can't get the damn pics to load up

bad day of riding

bad ass reply :thumbsup:

run the 27.5 pilot. Than adjust the air/fuel screw to about 1 and a half turns out to two full turns out. run the bike on idle till it warms up than hold the thottle to above idle than bottom out the air/fuel screws. this should bog down the motor but don't worry. if it dies, restart it and hold the throttle out a little more. Than start to turn the screws out until it idles to its highest point which should be the one and a half to two turns out. if it idles out at one full turn out you need to richen up the pilot. If it idles up past two turns out you will need to lean out the pilot. As far as main jet, if you are running the stock carbs and no motor work other than the pipes and the airbox lid on and the stock airfilter if that is what you have, I would start with a #290 and do a plug chop. At just above sea level it should be near spot on, but not every bike is the same. Hope that helps. :thumbsup:

on the five slot needle, normally the clip is in the third slot down from the top. on the six slot needle it would be in the third of fourth. it all really depends on how well the bike performs in mid thottle

oh I also have a cool head with 19cc domes. I want to switch the domes out for 18's. I think I'm going to go with RDZ in- frame pipes and shears silencers

m6 by .75

ok my bike is 20 over stock with pro light pistons and an mx port job. I have v-force three reeds with the cages port matched to the billit intakes. reed spacers and keihen 34mm flat slide carbs. aluminum air box with K&N airfilters, billit case saver. ASR +2+1 a-arms and fox float shocks. Stock swinger for now and rear shock(zero preload) frame has all unessesary brackets removed. moved the overflow bottle to the front. moved cdi box to where the coil was and moved the coil next to it where the tores brain lived. cut my harness down to only a 12 inch harness(no lights and only what I need). holeshots at all four corners. +4 dura blue axle. adjustable timing plate at +5 degrees. billit clutch basket with barnett dirt digger clutch. an aluminum water pump impeller. tether kill and race cut plastic. The gearing is 14/40 but I think I will go back to 14/41 unless someone has a better gear ratio setup. I basically trail race, if anyone rides Mio and knows how bad they are, I ride them as fast as I can. I also hit the dunes a lot(silver lake dune). I drag race with all my friends and anyone that is there. oh my shee is an 05 limited edition, on its second frame(don't ask )

mine ran pritty strong with DG pipes but i have had nothing but crap luck with them from the day I sent the first set back. Now I did some major port work and increased the the intake setup drastickly. For one reason, the stock carbs I had on there was like sucking a V.W. bus threw a 4" pvc pipe. It wouldn't start easly and it didn't run as well as it shoud have. As soon as I put on billit intakes(with out cross-over tube or boost bottle) and 34mm flat slide carbs and an aluminum airbox, it woke it right up. now the pipes are the only hold up. I want inframe drag pipes but I also need spark arresters. I mainly high speed trail ride but I also dabble a little in drag racing. :biggrin: