CenCalBanshee

As the title says I have a shifting problem. just got it ported and all put back together Broke it in and everthing was fine. now went out tonight to just go play around and it was working fine on my first ride out but after that i was noticing that i have excesive play in the shift lever. Its like 2 or 3 inches. once it goes into gear its fine. seems it upshifts alot better than when down shifting but its not perfect. when i down shift i have to actually pick up on the shifter then it well lock in place where i can shift down. If you need any more info just ask. any help will be appreciated im hoping i dont have to split the cases. im thinking either a shift dog problem or the star thing or a adjustment in that area or maybee something fell out I dont think its a shift fork because it goes thru all the gears fine.

Talk to washburn on here he works for buchanan racing and can get you a deal on elkas. gave me a awesome deal on fronts

That guy had some major crack for breakfast. 28000 for a ported motor and some minor upgrades hes crazy. he most likely had someone else do all the work on that thing and got taken for a ride.

IM pretty sure you dont have to even pull the cases apart, I think you can get it out by just pulling out the clutch and the kickstarter assembly and it pulls all the way thru the whole lower case without seperating the cases. Cant remeber exactly but others should chime in

Are those small or big bores?

The pipes you choose will depend on the riding type that you do. If its trail id go with dmcs or the t-6s. If its dune or fast trail I would go with the t-5s on a unported engine or a mild port. I dont know much about the fmfs but I think they have a little more low end than the t-5s Its all on what you want to ride.

I agree I like the lakers much better, Im just not into the grill design of the fullbores but every time i see climbanyhills lakers makes me want to go buy some of the lakers right now

As a last resort you could always weld a bigger nut to it and break it loose. but I would only do that if you absolutely had to

I put mine in the same spot firehead did and had no lineup issues

If I have my bike together by then maybee Ill head out there on halloween also

Make that 3 people, I had just bought my quad at the time and on the 2nd time out It exploded the skirts off and I had to get back to camp on 1 cylinder. It ended up costing me a new top end and a $400 crank... now its got wisecos and thats all I will ever use. I will never use a Vitos product!

How were the drags? Who won and such if you guys were out there that long. Too hot for me out there right now, I think the soonest ill be out there is thanksgiving week.

87sheerips has some for sale in the for sale forum

I am intrested, How much because I need to sell my t-5s first

Thanks for all the replies, Im just going to gusset the weak points that I can see Ill call lonestar on monday other wise ill make them all myself. I consider myself a pretty good welder, we do fabrication every day at my shop so between myself and my buddy I think we can handle this

Im looking for a gusset kit for my frame, I am capable of fabercating my own but I dont have the time at work do this, If anyone knows of a gusset kit please give me some leads. I tried bare performance but they said they dont offer a kit. If I cant find a kit post some pics if you can I am not a structural engineer so I need to know where some of the weaker parts of the frame are. I know the steering tower is a big weak point but after that Im not sure. ANy help would be great!

Thanks, Ill call him in a few days

I want to get my bike ported, im looking at a agressive dune port I think..Just wondering how redlines portwork is if anyone has used them lately. I really want to get jeff at fast to port them but I dont think i can stand being down for that long. So if anyone has any good sugestions please respond or if you know some good porters that arent as busy please let me know

if you pull the cover on the right side of the clutch cover you will see a access pannel to the water pump impeller. you can inspect it there. if its bad you need to pull the clutch cover entirely, if you are going to do that I would recomend installing a billet impeller

yep thats the ones you want to loosen on the side of the cylinders they go right into the water jackets

Did you put the little rubber tube back in that goes between the carbs. I have done it a couple times and it will make it not start

standard shee plugs are ngk br8es or their racing plug which is what i use is br8eg. the eg plug has never failed me but they are a little more pricy about 5 bucks a plug but rocky mountain sells them for around 3.50

As the title says I need a good used engine kill /light switch for my 02 shee if anyone has a good used one or knows where i can get a new one for a better price than the dealer let me know. my sister has paypal so i would like to use that for payment

I would go with a timing plate with +4 degrees of advance

If it was me I would want to be sure which hole they went in. not too sure if it makes much diffrence but when you break in the motor the rings seat to that paticular barel and switching them make cause the rings to chatter and break but I may be wrong. Also the cylinders become tapered as they start to wear. to be on the save side I would put new rings in. IM not positive on this so I would wait till someone else chimes in!