SlowerThanYou

Thanks, SpecialBender! I'm not going anywhere, but it's hard to get inspired to post. The infamous DMX will live, with or without the BHQ!

🤔 Hmmmmm.......decision(s), I'm on the edge of my seat!

Thanks, Special!

Motor is done & installed in the frame. Hopefully be finished up & fired soon on rat poison! I would post pics but can't see what's being posted.

I don't know, I can't see the pics.

Slowly making progress! Hoping to get some type of testing done this winter. [img]https://i.imgur.com/V7Bj9YX.jpg[/img] [img]https://i.imgur.com/TAKlskm.jpg[/img]

I hope it helped! I've been doing this for 35+ years & it's somewhat easy for me to do naturally. It's a different story when you try to explain it in written form to others. While I think we have mainly been talking about .500 sportsman/full tree. I'm well experienced in both the .400 & .500 pro light, leaving off top bulb .500 full tree with a delay box & still working on a blocked tree leaving off the last bulb.

Update, waiting on parts, hope to get some testing done this fall/winter. Angel is completely rebuilding the engine; he did find a broken piston. 1/4 mile is hard on a 2 stroke! We're converting it back to the Rat Poison race fuel. We will primarily use it for 1/8-mile asphalt racing or shorter but not ruling out 300' sand/dirt.

Let's start with your 1st sentence in the main paragraph. So, a racer is cutting consistent shit/slow RTs or red lighting. I know I'm going to make changes to the race vehicle(s) set-up to change the RT! Now, for the second sentence. There's only one time a year I set up for a perfect RT. We have a 50K run for the money. A perfect package wins, we set-up for a .000 RT. The rest of racing against an opponent we don't shoot for perfect RT. Reaction times have a variance based on different factors. We try to keep that variance as tight as possible: Let's use a .010 RT variance for testing/qualifying. During racing if I set up for a perfect RT. The RTs are going to vary -.005 - .005, going red isn't going to work for my racing. Now, take that same .010 variance & set-up for a .005 RT medium; you theoretically get RTs in the .000 to .010 range. I do agree with staging shallow as possible to keep RTs & ETs the most consistent.

JSins, Wow, someone posted in the Drag Forum! I see you recently joined & the above post is your 1st. Thanks for contributing!

Thanks to Angel taking over the DMX project & totally redoing the porting, domes, pipes, just to name a few things. The DMX ended up running low 3.60s & a couple high 3.50s in the 300'. This wasn't the intended purpose for the motor, but it kind of went that direction. Somewhere around 2017 the DMX went back to asphalt 1/4 mile with the last time being ran was 2019. It runs consistent low 9.80s. More to come, not that it really matters.

Jeff, I hope you had a great Holiday weekend. I wanted to let you know that my son is following my footsteps. He ordered some Shear in-frame drag pipes for you. Glad to see he has good taste. I wish he ordered more from you, but he's more of a rider than a builder/tuner. Anyway, I'm getting back into the Banshee business. Angel wants to give back the DMX drag bike back to daddy! Hope all is well, 2BKING!

Hope to do some type of update to this thread in the future.

The reason I came back & updated this thread is because............the DMX is coming home to Daddy! I hope to share some of DMX's accomplishments, why it's coming back to me & what's the plan(s) for future of the infamous DMX.

Thanks Special, I visited about a year ago or so! I actually read this whole thread yesterday & today; what a shyt show on most counts, including myself. There's a reason for bringing it TTT. Hope to provide some updates to the thread.

TTT, for my good friend Tedder!

I can't share the photobucket crap anymore. Maybe I can explain it to you if you have a question.

I have a very strong opinion on this & I argue with Angel about this pretty often. Weight isn't everything, here's our example. 443 cub on race gas, stock frame (320 lbs.) & a 220 lb. rider. It was pulling low 1.30s & running 84 mph in 300'. That really isn't shit anymore, but back in the day it was making noise. Anyway, I don't get hooked on the weight deal, but it's important. I put the most emphasis on tuning #1, the proper rider (not just the lightest), maintenance & weight.

This thread was intended to bring light to a subject (clutch tuning) that was pretty much not being used in the Quad world when the thread was started! Keep your open mind about people doing things differently, nothing wrong with that. IMO, the key in this thread has always been the baseline, 1st post & should be the same for anyone! Now, you mention pulling base pressure & watch your 60's improve, then start adding or taking away arm weight. I hope that's not what people are taking away from the thread. I try & stress baseline 1st, then make changes from there with adding or subtracting base pressure. I'm sure, I've mentioned that I think most run too much base pressure. You mention a ? about slipping the clutch on shifts. It works & it's a very fine line. The key in a small or larger motor is staying around the peak power during the run. The window gets bigger usually with the larger motor. I can't remember if I mentioned it in this thread or another, an example of or rpm window of our 443 cub. It was a very narrow rpm window.

Slipping badly, needs more base pressure/more spring. The 60' time really sucked for the ET it was running, but was really making up for it between 60' & 330'. It was running deep into the 3.80s in 330'. We have been 3.60 in 300' on sand. The asphalt set-up is currently running a 2.0 final gear ratio & probably needs a 1.80 - 1.90 final ratio. It gets pretty tricky to make that ratio & the clutch right for 1/4 mile. Angel has done a great job with the DMX. He has totally changed the timing, dome set-up, some huge lectrons & changed back cone on the pipes. Plus, a bunch of smaller changes. We plan on changing out the beefy/heavy rods that K&T wanted in the motor. Actually, that whole K&T motor set-up has been redone by Angel.

DMX, 2nd run on asphalt goes 9.92 driving thru the clutch badly. We tried to detune it, because Angel is not licensed and only legal to run 10.00. Well, it went 9.84 driving thru the clutch again. Need to do some clutch tuning & a final gear change.

Nice! I like it, brand new BHQ Member & 1st post is in this thread. I don't know what you consider more life out of the clutch is? This is our definition of useful life & it has been mentioned before. Peak performance for heads up racing we get about 100 runs. After that we use the clutch for Bracket/Index Racing for another 100 runs. After that we retire the frictions, they start breaking. The steel/aluminum plates can usually get used longer with very thorough inspections. This was our results & I consider our clutch management program one of the best. Never bead blasted the steels, but don't see why it wouldn't work. As for cryo treatments, didn't see a difference on the steel plates. All of our aluminum plates were cryo treated & hard coated. I consider this a must for the aluminum plates.

No shit, LOL! Not my headache anymore, the boys do their own tuning.

Angel is riding, but you never know? We are having problems getting it to 60' on sand. Why not get it worked out on the asphalt. It worked with the 7mm, so I figured we would give it a try. It has been 3.60 @ 92 mph in 300', but have a hard time getting it to 60'.

I'm still alive & the DMX is also. It's going into our asphalt chassis for some 1/8 mile & if we are lucky 1/4 mile testing. This is going to happen in early Sept. hope to post up some results shortly after.