SlowerThanYou

Sounds like we might have a few more quads showing up.

Thanks for the kind words or finding stuff I didn't mean to give away guys. My full intention on most things I post is to try & get people to think or try things on their own. Basically, I try & point member's in the right direction & let your own smarts take over. To me that's the best way to learn whether it's right or wrong.

I think that's the way to do it, but lubing the trans is my concern with the set-up. You could also throw in a screen type filter.

I know we have discussed this for your application. Your situation is different than drag racing. You have to find a way of directing oil onto/into your clutch pack while racing. It could be done, but at what expense & maybe you need to do that. This is just me thinking out loud. Pull oil from the bottom of transmission case to a pump. Then thru a oil cooler & inject back into the clutch, but then you would also have to inject it on the transmission. The best place would inject it into the center of the clutch pack & let the centrifugal force do the work getting the oil thru the clutch pack. Now here's a trick for the drag guys/girls. In between round of racing when not tuning on the clutch. Simply tip your quad from the stator side, putting you clutch side lower than the stator side. This will help cool the clutch & saturate it with a oil bath. I would post a pic, but can't say I have ever taken one while doing that. As for this thread needing action. I've asked for other's inputs on the subject. There has maybe been 5 step up to the plate & appreciated their inputs/feedback. You can make the thread what you want, but the balls in reader's/user's court.

As far as I know everyone is using a 1st gear launch for asphalt. I like to keep an open mind that a 2nd gear launch could be accomplished, but IMO. The rider & quad would have to be very light, billet 2nd gear & lots of clutch slip; for it to work correctly. As for the sand we have a 1-5 for the DMX so we can test both 1st & 2nd gear launches. We couldn't do that with a 1-4, we could of tested it, but not raced it like we wanted to.

Next weekend at Mid America Motorplex in Pacific Junction IA. Looks like we are going to have 4 asphalt drag quads racing. If anybody else is in the area, come on out & join the fun. The Farm Quad will take on anyone, LOL!

I'll put it this way, Go Fuck Yourself! I was trying to be nice & me knowing something has been shared for all to read. Like I said before balls in your court, but you just want to suck up the information with out providing anything to the subject. If you feel the need to continue this discussion take it to another thread.

We had one done, but untested. I did it after talking with Wheelman. He says it pretty much does away with the wear & tear of the inner hub.

I understand you were making a suggestion, but like I said most & maybe all was covered in the thread. When I've covered areas in the clutch tuning thread. I don't have time to explain clutch information every time the subject comes up elsewhere. Seems like Tricked found the information in the lock-up tuning thread & 10milmike understands you have to read between the lines sometimes. As for alluding or being vague. Guess what, I never mention the key information of base pressure numbers or arm weights when talking on any thread. Get on your high horse about that. I'm really allusive & vague about that subject with good reason. Now, if you or other's don't like the way I post. Go get spoon fed by someone else or don't read my threads/posts. You can follow Trick's lead & actually add to the clutch Lock-Up Tuning Thread or you can continue to question someone who has always taken time to help with the subject! Here's an idea, ask a question about inspecting clutch steels & give an example of what you would do. Balls in your court!

Guys, I have mentioned some of them items in the lock-up tuning thread! I really thought about elaborating more about them, but the intentions of that tuning thread was to provide good old basics of lock-up tuning. Then it's up to the reader's to take it to the next level. The clutch information is out there, but you have to look outside of the ATV world. No where are you guy's going to find that kind of information compiled into one place & broken down to how it relates directly to ATVs. You may or may not like my answer, but most people charge $$$ for that kind of information; it's only found at BHQ for nothing!

If you have that clutch set-up close to what it needs for slip & your not doing the items mentioned below. Plus, some other things I didn't mention. I would only expect 40 to 50 runs out of a clutch. I don't say that to be mean, but I've been there & done that!

Chris, I tried to PM you, but your shit is full. I have a cell number for you, but want to make sure it's current.

We get our best ETs out of the 1st 100 passes. The next 100 passes work good for bracket racing. After that they go to shit. We do a lot of different modifications, procedures & steel/friction conditioning to keep the clutch working that long. I don't know how many runs you got on that clutch, but if you have set up to slip out at the launch & if you don't have the arm weights right. They will eat clutches fast.

The plug on the left looks richer than the other, but looks like a nice safe tune on the main jetting. If pulling timing continues to improve mph, you may have to lean out the mains just a little.

The data/information given shows you picked up mph by pulling the timing back to 8*. I would like to see you drop down to 6*, even though the heat mark is in the right place on the ground strap. IMO, this is the only area I would be changing, until it doesn't improve. Then you can move on to other areas, one thing at a time. I still would like to see the plugs with the threads cut off. This may or may not be the next area to start tuning after the timing exercise is done.

1st thing would be to cut the threads off them plugs & take a picture of the fuel ring at the base of the porcelain & post it up.

After some more information came to light. IMO, no need for a 1st gear start with a 115 lb. rider. There's nothing wrong with a Ripper Paddle on a small motor. We have been there, done that! We went from high 70's mph with a 75" RO 12 paddle Extreme. To low to mid 80's with a 75" RO 14 paddle Ripper. Rippers don't always mean a lower mph. Now looking at your time slip. Your mph seems a little low. I know, I always say mph doesn't win races. But in this case I think you can improve your ET, by raising your mph. IMO, your mph should be in the mid 70's for that ET. Find the mph & your ET should drop, but may require other changes also.

If his weight was 200 lbs. or better, I would suggest it. Depending on some other factors.

I resemble doing shit that everyone says doesn't work, LOL! The stuff I do is taken from my 1/4 drag car experience & adapted to our ATVs. Sure things are a little different, but most of the shit transfers over. Most people don't understand how the 2 different vehicles correlate. It's pretty easy to understand when you have been lucky enough to have done both. Tire width does cause additional friction down track & cost ET/MPH. I'm only going to hit on a few other areas, but the are more. The next problem with a wider tire is accelerating the mass. The last trend in drag racing is flat hauling ass on a small drag radial tire. Think about what's going on there, some of them areas addressed & some that are not?

There would be other free areas I would play with before buying domes, but that's me. A dome change is a good choice, but almost always takes more than one dome change. IMO, Tim at Titan Racing is the best for dome design/cutting.

Not really, LOL! We did find out a little information by mistake on a couple of dyno runs! I'm old school when it comes to data logging, but it works well. Tedder is a little bit more advanced in his data logging. Hit him up, he may or may not share his information.

It may be too much compression if the rest of the combo is not right. We have ran 109-110 mph in the 1/8 & 125+ mph in the 1/4 mile with that much compression. We prefer to run it a tad lower, but I wouldn't hesitate to run that compression or more for 500'. It really doesn't matter what the OP does, but the tune for shorter distances is much more aggressive in most cases. Than the tune for longer distances.

Here's another example of a member on BHQ using clutch tuning. The clutch didn't contribute to all of the gains, but it still played an important factor. The 60' would be better, but the member has a 2-5 trans & is manually shifting the 1-2 shift.

Not me, LOL!

I will start by saying a quicker ET will always win a race regardless of mph. Your 90-94 mph will beat 98-101 mph with a quicker ET, as long as your reaction time is equal to or better than your opponent or you have no other infraction like a red light or other rules infraction. Anyway, is there ET to be found with raising your mph, with that much difference there's (IMO). Backing your timing down is just a simple test to see if your mph raises. If it doesn't you simply go back to what you had. If the mph increases you keep lowering the timing until it stops showing an improvement. If lowering timing doesn't show improvement. It's time to start working on another area of the tuning area. I most always start with things that cost nothing, but a little time. If lowering the timing does improve mph, it may very well affect your ET. Other areas may have to be changed to get your ET back or improve it.