bhatch21

text sent from jackson, tn.

So yamaha is incapable of making a mistake. Have you seen the stock banshee chain adjuster? I have the white/black 02 and have seen other ones and they all came with yellow shocks.

There's a mistake on the banshee history page. The white/black 02 came with yellow shocks, not the white ones pictured. I have the black/yellow 03 SE plastics on my 02 that started out with the white/black scheme.

I think that's a 1994 banshee. It has the violet purple plastic and rims. The 95 had a brighter purple plastic with yellow rims. I own both and my wife rides the 94. You could check the bike numbers to confirm this.

If you can get some 10" rear rims, I think 20x11x10 is a good setup. The shorter sidewall makes them handle better in the turns like 18s but you still get the ground clearance of 20s.

Glad you got it figured out.

I think the Clymer manual has an incorrect method for testing the coil. Not sure about the Yamaha one. The primary coil should be tested by probing the two leads of the coil were the wires connect. The secondary test should be to put the + probe in the cap and ground the - probe on the frame. I've heard that coils rarely go out so you may want to check it again. You can also check voltage coming out of the stator while someone kicks it over. The pickup coil sends a low voltage signal to the cdi telling it to fire. If it gets no signal, you get no spark.

SOLD

I got it as a banshee back up. Turns out I didn't need one and prefered the old ride. Like the ad says, showroom condition. http://jacksontn.craigslist.org/mcy/2279064204.html . I might be able to help with delivery by meeting a serious buyer within 100 miles of Jackson, TN. I was going to attach some pics, but with a 50k upload limit, that's like 1 thumbnail. PM me your email for detailed pics. $3300 for the quad.

If you decide to part it out I want the front fenders. Been trying to find yellow uncut fronts for a long time. Thanks.

pm sent on front wheels.

I guess I'll pass. Thanks anyway.

I'm interested in the front race cut plastic. Have you got any pics? I'm looking for some with a "wing" cut, not shaved off at the mount. Also, where are you at in TN? Thanks.

Received my headlights the other day. They look good. Thanks for a smooth transaction Outfront.

Payment for headlights sent.

PM sent on the headlights.

When you cleaned the carbs, did you look at the reeds? Maybe the one on the left side is cracked or not closing.

I have 3 banshees. I've replaced 1 stator and 2 CDIs. And I also hate electrical problems. Titan, I discovered my stator was bad using the meter/resistance method.

Ieat4strokes, where around Memphis do you ride? Based on your terrain description I'd guess Sugar Creek.

Hi. sorry for the absence. I pm'ed another member who was having an identical problem that was traced to his e-brake. With his help I confirmed that this bone stock, 94 banshee doesn't have the e-brake switch. My stock 95 doesn't either and the one on my 02 has been removed. I haven't put "new" plugs caps on it, but I did swap out the coil (wires and all) with the one on my 02 and that didn't fix the problem. I'm running MC-1 at 50:1, and I'm starting to think its a fuel issue. Back in the spring when these symptoms appeared while riding, I thought the bike was running out of gas. I put the fuel valve on reserve and solved the problem. From then on I noticed the bike "needed" to be on reserve when the tank was anything less than half full. I think I'll remove and clean the petcock. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Meaning the brake is engaged? I was able to roll it around with the engine off. Is there a brake sensor? If so, where is it at? My old Warrior had one coming off the clutch perch.

The only TORS component left is the throttle switch. I was under the impression that if you unplug the TORS box, that takes the other switches out of the equation. I also tested all the TORS switches per the Clymer manual and they were "good". With the bike idling in neutral I sprayed the carb boots and intake area with ether to check for air leaks. No increase in rpm was noticed.

I've been chasing an electrical problem on my 94 banshee. Ran fine one weekend, wouldn't crank the next. Pulled the plugs and found no spark. I unplugged the key switch and jumped the wires and got spark. Put a new key switch on it and it ran 1 time and the key wouldn't cut it off. Checked all the electrical components by the book and came to the CDI. Put a working CDI on it and it cranked up first kick. After warming it up I ran down the strreet and when I came back it started bogging down in gear. I could put it in neutral and rev it fine, but not in gear. I unplugged the TORS box and still the same thing. I unplugged the carb switches and I was able to rev it up in neutral and dump the clutch in gear to make it go. Could it be the e-brake? Everyone talks about removing the e-brake with the TORS, but my bike has no wire on the perch or switch on the brake. Any ideas would help. Thanks.

I have a 94,95, and 02 banshee. I've replaced the stator and CDI on my 95 so I have a little experience with electrical problems. My 94 won't spark and I've gone down the electrical testing list in the Clymer's and come to the CDI. I would love to swap the CDI on the 94 out with one from my other bikes but yamaha changed the connectors from 94 to 95. I was wondering if there were any HQ members in West TN that had a 94 or older banshee and would let me plug their CDI into my bike and see if it sparks? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Yeah, I think the "all blue" ones have been offered since 98 or 99 to current. Seems like they over did it with that scheme. Where do they offer the 07 and 08 banshee?