nitroburner13

ill run to the garage tomorrow and give that a shot

i got both of my carbs cleaned and it idles good and doesnt die. still at an idle it has a popping noise out of the left cylinder and it seems like it doesnt fire on every stroke. it seems like i have the carbs synced good and i have the same jets in both and all the basics that i could think of. it sounds good when i rev it up too i just cant get over the noise its making at idle.

the stator and the cdi are from the 96 motor. ill am going to get a clymer soon and ill check it out just to make sure.

ya its still available. im at work right now though but ill be sure to send them over to you when i get home. thanks for looking. adam

thats what i thought too because of the way it dies. it just cuts out and shuts off. i need to go pick up a clymer and start thumbing through i guess. if anyone has any ideas ill try anything.

too much? shoot me an offer and ask for pics if youre interested. im very reasonable and want them gone. oh and they have brand new powerjets that were 45 bucks a piece.

my buddy has a 1988 warrior that he recently put a 96 motor in. we got the bike to idle good but as soon as you barely crack the throttle open it just flat dies. ive worked on warriors a lot but have honestly never run into this before. i dont think its the carb because i went through and there is nothing wrong and everything is clean and clear. any ideas? we want to get it running for a trip in the next 2 weeks so any help would be amazing. thanks for the help guys,adam

i have a set of 34mm keihn alchohol carbs that were set up by d&m racing last summer. they were ran for the season and have about 3 trips on them. im looking for 400 for the pair with the throttle cable and .120 main jets. let me know if youre interested and ill get you pic. thanks adam

i have a -1 lonestar swingarm in good shape that was just pulled off my flat track bike. ran about 7 races and 10 practices with it. still in very good shape but it is just painted flat black because i didnt want to front the money for chrome or powdercoating on a flat track bike. it has the round house carrier with all bearings. im looking to get 350 for it but i will accept any reasonable offers because i need the money for christmas and i would like to get it out of my garage also. i will send you pics if you are interested. just let me know. thanks, adam

i sold him the cylinders and when i ordered them i ordered a stage 3 port for a stock crank. i never did get around to port timing them because i wanted to get it together before a dune trip. one thing i can say about them is that they ran great and i never had any power issues. i was running an o.e.m crank that was just trued and welded. so if the cylinders were set up for a 4mm crank that means they were sent to me like that from trinity. if that is the case i honestly didnt mean to sell him something other that what i advertised. i just built a 4mm and if i knew they were for a 4mm i would have never sold the cylinders in the first place.

hey guys im starting to get frustrated. i just put my bike back together and i cant get the left cylinder to run at an idle. it runs fine at WOT but in the midrange it still sounds like its missing. i have checked and rechecked the electrical so i know its not that. i think it may have something to do with the carbs but i cant seem to get them right. does anyone have any ideas about what i should try? thanks in advance for any help.

im building a bike with no lights and i would like to get rid of the handlebar switch. im only going to be running a kill switch from the wires off the key switch. just need to know how i could hook everything up to run the bike without the light/kill switch. thanks for any help!

problem solved finally. thanks for all the input guys.

i think you are right. i just looked at the numbers and the first three are 1EL. so if this is a tchometer gear is there any way to hook one up to this bike?

its not the impeller gear its on the opposite side of the clutch than the water pump is. this isnt an rz bottom end either. ill see if i can get pics up asap.

just pulled my friends clutch cover off of his 87 banshee to change the plates and noticed something odd. there is an extra gear. its platic and its above the clutch primary gear just a little to the left. i got curious because all the bikes i have evr had did not have it so i looked in the manual and it isnt even in there. can anyone tell me what the heck it is for? thanks, adam

too much? ummm.... 350 obo

i have a set of trinity stage 3 ported cylinders for a stock stroke. the bore size is 68.92mm and they have about 6-8 hours on them. these cylinders made 73 horsepower on the dyno on alcohol but went to gas after and never had it dynoed on gas. these cylinders pull really nice and for being a big port job they are pretty good dune riding cylinders too. i would like to go with a different set up and i really need a 4-7 mill crank soon so i can get the bottom end together and port time the new cylinders. let me know what you have and i might put money toward it too if it looks good. if no trade i would like 400 obo for the cylinders and the pistons. i have pics if you are actually interested. thanks, adam

i recently bought an engine for my banshee and was told it had a 4 mill. crank in it. i took it apart and noticed there was no stroker plate and the domes dont seem to be cut for a stroker. the only thing i found was the markings on the side of the crank and the rods. they say 29L. does anyone know whether these markings indicate a 4 mill. or is there anything else i should look for? did i get ripped off?

i recently bought an engine that had a trinity stage 4 head on it. when i took the head off there were no o rings on the domes but there are little metal rings on them and there are grooves machined in the top of the cylinders. i was told that i need a special copper head gasket for this head. is this true? i have always run pro design heads that were all o rings so i dont know about this. could anyone help me out? thanks

i recently bought an engine that had a trinity stage 4 head on it. when i took the head off there were no o rings on the domes but there are little metal rings on them and there are grooves machined in the top of the cylinders. i was told that i need a special copper head gasket for this head. is this true? i have always run pro design heads that were all o rings so i dont know about this. could anyone help me out? thanks

im looking to start setting up my bike just for 1/4 mile asphalt. i am only running a 4 mil with trinity stage 3 cylinders and a stock tranny. i was wondering if anyone could tell me where to start with gearing and tires and anything else i need to know in order to pull all the way to the end. my bike has about 80 horsepower which isnt much compared to a lot of you guys. i dont have much money to spend and i cant afford an override or anythng like that. am i dreaming or is it possible to get it to run all the way to the traps? please help. thanks

i have a fast banshee on alcohol if you would be interested. it also has lonestar in the front with works and a plus 6 in the back with revalved stocker. a lot more but thats just a few things. im in az let me know if youre interested

thankz a lot guys i got everything in place and put back together. should have it started today

so i was putting my bros new cub cylinders on and i got everything but the clutch together today. the problem is that after i got everything together my bro proceeds to show me something called cheetah plug bodys. they appear are small allen head set screws. i have no idea where they go but im assuming that they where supposed to go on somewhere before the top end was assembled. can someone please tell me where they go and what they do without laughin too hard. thanks guys