NOS_350x

I just put 37 pj's on my stock bore/stroke/cyl shee, has Duncan midrange porting and ptr pipes. and pyramid reed cage. Just went up from 34's I wanted some more and got it. Screams on top now. Jetting for the 34's was 165 main 58 pilot mid clip jetting for the 37 is 180 main 58 pilot, 1 up from the bottom Also running a airbox with proflow K&N I dont understand why everyone uses such small carbs. Moving up really woke this thing up. It was fast before it just moved the power around to where i wanted.

for racing purposes its mainly to keep people from sliding into you, give you a safty zone, Stops your rear tires from riding up on other people or sliding into you and taking out a foot., Trust me you NEED THEM

Those fox's should be adjustable enough to lowerthem perfect give yourself 2-3 inches of up travel. and set your rear about 1-2 inches lower than the front. These are just sugjestions give it a try and let us know how it is for you. And i will make a correction, the bike lowered isnt good for trail riding. The link hits EVERYTHING!!!

Does anyone have any dyno numbers for these pipes? CPI PTR T5's I know everyones OPPINIONS on them but i want acutal numbers. pipes will act diffrent to diffrent mods, and porting so everyones oppinions arnt really that good. Just because FMF's work good on your bike dosetn mean that toomy's wont work better, You have to try diffrent things. I have PTR's and love them Tryed some toomys and they absoutly suck no bottom no mid top it hit hard on top and fell right on its face in the overrev with about a 800 rpm range of useable power. I have some brand new cpi's in the mail.

Im happy with my duncan motor. Havent been beat by anything with an equal size motor. (now im not sayin it the fastest but it does run GOOD)

i dont know how high it is sock but i would say about 3 or 4 inches lower than stock. I cut up a 250r strut and put it on my shee. I ride everywhere with it lowered, It dosent like big whoops and bit jumps tho. Everything elce its perfect.

yes they are pressed in, With a vice nuts and a wrench you can put them in. its really not that hard.

leave the large part that goes over the airbox, and the tapered part but the small section that goes over the stock carb. That tapered section will strech over the larger carbs. I dont know if the intakes your using will push the carb back far enoguh but i know the Pro-desing and PTR intakes will push the carb back so it will line up perfectly.

I would call duncan and see if they will give you a set of the new flanges with the ring in them. Then you could have a welder weld them on. They probably understand the problem because my 99's have an o-ring in them. I use sclicone when in putting on a pipe that dosent have an o-ring only way you can get them to seal.

Dont quote me on the price, call for yourself. but i think they are 450 for the heim joint and 550 for the balljoint. Call for yourself and ask and let us know what they tell you.

Not really, with the a-arms and shocks i have i have 4 inches of up travel, So when the front does lift the tires are still on the ground so i can turn. Look at the Edt bikes there all std hieght in the front but low in the back

Here most riders leave the front high and the rear low. i lowered my rear about 4 inches. With it set like that your actualy getting more weight on the rear wheels when you get on it. And your lower to help with the cornering. Alot of people think the lower the better. For me thats not the case.

Doin it again but dirt this time. May 10th, If ya wana come contact me ill get ya some directions My e-mail is [email protected] Im going to run some 300ft sand drags at my house $20 entery, winner take all. Not timed, but i do have a neat little light system im using to start. If your intrested E-mail me, ill give you directions. Last time the winner took home about $150. [email protected]

Why pay jansen there markup, buy them direct from the guys who make them. It will be cheaper, One thing tho, make shure they will tell you you get a lifetime warrenty. http://fireball-racing.com/

Get an old ice chest. and fill it with spray foam (in bags) it wont move and the icechest is more than strong enoguh to take a fall. You also get nice handles too. Just tape down the lid and slap the address on there.

You want it 10 lbs diffrence, SO left rear would have 104 the right rear would be 114. After making an adjustmen on the bar push the front end down, then the back and see where it sets to. I havent tryed sucking the left side in. I know alot of racers do but i would do all my adjusment with the swaybar.

You only need 2 scales put them on the 2 rear's. Thats much easyer and simplistic. Easyer to keep track of. I would start at 10lbs inside rear and go from there, If the track is sticky take some off if its slick then add some more. 10 jsut seems to be a good starting point. Streching the tire will work good. They tell me the cussion is there you cant pass in it. WELL, run it the whole race and make it rideable you knwo exactly what im going to do. Here is a good trick to do but you need help by other races, Get 3 or 4 guys to run LOW WAY LOW, like bumping the inner berrior grass tires whatever is there get that low, This will thow marbles up to where everyone elce is running causing them to end up off the track and you groop of guys taking an easy win. This normaly takes a ton of work on setup that will keep you guys fast enoguh to stay competitive. But will lead to an easy win.

What kinda weight are you running with the swaybar? Are you adjusting it with the swaybar or shock. If your using your swaybar to adjust the weight try using the shock it will give it diffrent charastics mid turn. Might work out better for ya. Also if your doing a rolling start get a 61 on the outside. Run a staggar. Once your goin around the track dive low in the corner, after the apex start floating up, this way someone gets beside you they run out of room way fast. If you do that you have to be super smooth or people get pissed and say your blocking, i know. When going into the turns Tap your front brakes this will get the weight off the rear tires and give you a ton of grip on the front, allowing you to run much more weight on the inside rear, and you can hook up more. During that time when your taping the brake it also give you an awesom spot to start pitching it sideways before the turn comes and you can use that slide to really slow you down. Theres just a few things to try, I got a few more little mean little tricks ill throw out there soon. Some may work for ya some may not, give it a shot and see what ya got.

Are your tracks cussion tracks or bluegrove? One of the small tracks i run (its about 1/6) I pull a holeshot and tap the brakes in the first turn, get a few bikes to pile up in the first turn and then you get a bit of cussion room for mistakes. On the small track get your gearing down so you dont have to shift, I run 3rd gear all the way around, Its reved like hell at the end of the straight. No shifting leaves room for MUCH less error. 14-41 with 63" hoosiers (the bigger hoosiers launch much better than the 59's) on the shee i hate 59's

Dyno numbers 500: 51.50 350: 48.98 450: 44.40 The bigger the track the better the 500 does. 85 mph in 3rd gear lets it absoutly SCREAM when its got the room. On a medium sized track the shee is the best. The 450 just dosent have the speed i like. On the smaller tracks its real close between the 450 and Shee, The shee can put down much faster lap times but is extremely hard to keep consistant.

The bikes 400ex/cr500 The trx450 Before after Banshee My gf racing my shee

Bored and thought i would thow up some pics. Riding on my pratice track

I say thats about perfect. Look simular???? Here is my shee. The other way i have seen them ran is the mounting braket on the rear of the upper a-arm mount with the arms facing forward Keeps it nice and low. And your swaybar is protected well by your shocks and a-arms. I cant run it like that, it wont clear my PTR pipes.

Honestly dude that looks way unsafe. witht he arms sticking that far out and high, i woldnt want that comming around on me if you or i wrecked. Just looks a bit on the dangrous side. I dont know if the promoters around here would even let you run.

awesome looking shee, I will hopefuly get some pics of mine up soon. What kind of rear suspenion setup are you using? Just a FYI shees dont run too good when you swap your carbs for shop towls.