Ben350

thanks for info. i couldnt remember who was posting about having all kinds of problems with the AC/DC, ur avatar looked familiar. I would have to go back and look again do you only run the Ricky stators? any experience wit others?

so does anyone think that one is better than the other, as in Moose vs electrex? anyone ever have any kinds of problems with either one?

Vitos performance sells just the boots

im glad im not the only one. Im very familiar with the burnt stator smell. It is absolute BS. Do you guys just run stock stators now, or is there a better aftermarket one?

I would be interested in the reg/rectifier. How big is the battery? i would probably fab up my own battery box. So in your opinion, the stock stator output just wont cut it? Im just so disgusted with all i went through with the aftermarket stators im doing everything i can to stick with stock one. I guess i could try stock one to see if battery gets discharged of no one has tried it before I believe it was your posts Snopczynski where i read how with the conversion you kept burning up stators. Ever resolve it or find out the cause? As a side note, has anyone had similar problems with Ricky Stators like i did? i bought it last year, it seems as though when you bought your stator matters a lot. Seems like ones from a few years ago are great, but recent ones are terrible?

also for checking your resistances, look under the Technical Docs page on the home page. Its all there. But if your parts pass the resistance check, doesnt really mean they are good. Part may fail only when under load

I fought the same thing on my bike. 1st, 2nd, 3rd seemed OK, but 4th, 5th, and 6th it would sputter at WOT. Went up and down on jetting, ended up rebuilding whole engine and hopping it up, had new bigger carbs, new pipes, still did it. I knew at that point it was electrical. Unfortunately, i have no friends with a banshee, im only one in our group, so i couldnt swap parts. And i also dont have anywhere around my house where i can test and go 4th gear WOT, so im left with testing resistances and throwing parts until the next ride. I ended up changing the stator, flywheel, and coil. Stator was a Ricky Stator 200w. When i sat down and thought about it, the problem started when i put that on. But with replacing the other parts at the same time, i cant say which one fixed it. But it is SO MUCH BETTER. Flawless now. Fought that prob all last year. So, if you have a Ricky Stator, try swapping for your stock one and see what happens. If not, maybe try swapping flywheel and coil. Also for good measure, take close look at Plug caps, wires, GROUNDS{clean them}. I even ran a ground wire from my cylinder head to the frame to be safe. I hope this helps, i know your pain

To start off i did a search fro info on this subject and found a lot, but still have a few ?s. For a little backround, my bike used to have 2 55watt 5 inch spots for riding in Little Sahara and St.Anthony at night and in order to run them i had a Ricky Stator high out put stator and flywheel. Worked unbelievably well at 1st. But long story short, i just sent back my 3rd Ricky Stator and will never bolt one on again. The first 2, the screws that secure the windings to the timing plate all snapped and the stator fell into the flywheel with mucho carnage resulting. The 3rd one they told me was a revised unit, they admitted they were having problems, and this one would be the ticket. Well, it lasted about 5 hours. The screws didnt break, just backed out this time and caused the flywheel key to shear and spin my flywheel on my new 4mm crank. I was less than pleased. I was all the way out in ID at St.Anthony Dunes, which is a 30 hour drive for me. Same thing happened last year. Not easy getting towed out of there. These screws are the ones they put in, i never touch them. So i refuse to use anymore RS products. They are the nicest people and warranty the stuff no questions asked, but i cant give them a 4th chance Sorry for that novel, but now i decided to go with the trailtech MR16s HID. And no matter what i run, has to be stock stator. I saw in some previous posts that it sounds like the stock stator with the ground floated,battery,and reg/rectifier might not be enough output? Also, i cant recall name, but one member claimed that he had nothing but problems with the conversion? And i plan on upgrading the wiring like was said to 14 gauge to try and make this setup bulletproof. Im tired of breaking down in the dunes, i need a bulletproof setup. If there is any question to reliability or anything, i guess im going back to regular 35w lights with stock electrical system. I'll upgrade my YFZ to ride at night. I appreciate your guys input.

they are right. in car motors timing is constantly being changed while you drive depending on a variety of inputs{TPS,knock sensor,MAP sensor,etc}. Also they use other methods such as EGR to reduce combustion temperatures and avoid pinging and detonation. If every shee engine builder and every person on here says that 145 is the max on pump gas i would believe them. I think they have a tad bit of experience

what kind of sound? does it do it all the time?

do you ride in sand or woods? if sand ditch airbox. looks so much better, makes pulling carbs off a breeze,etc. if you run in woods, i would leave box with pro design adaptor and lid off. Vitos has all the boot adaptors you will need i have a stock bore/unported shee with vitos super stock pistons and i run 35mm pwks with clamp on KN's. It runs great. Before anyone says anything i bought carbs because of great deal and future motor mods {porting-noss machine head} will help motor grow into bigger carbs. Honestly it was worth it just for the looks and ease of working on, though

i would say either its overfilled or overheating. Make sure you check tranny fluid after running engine for 5 or more minutes. That 3 ft. hose runs with all the wires and other hoses up over the motor and then infront of the gas tank and makes a loop and then points down and goes through a holder welded on the frame

Has anyone ran into same thing or heard of same thing? Do you think it was needle or like you said something inside topend they didn't realize they fixed? Either way thats a hell of a dealership. If i were you i would do my best to give them some business. An owner that worked on a bike himself? Wow, that place isn't anything like the places around here

When my crank seal went it sucked oil and burned it in right cylinder. Never pushed oil out. Not saying it couldn't I agree that it's either a hose routing problem or it's overfilled

Same thing happened to me last year. Right hand seal went out. Mine didn't overheat, though. Yes, you do have to split cases

I would start with a compression test. Good indicator of mechanical condition of motor. If good then get into wacky ignition/carb problems

I had the exact same problem with stock carbs and it ended up being plugged up pilot and pilot bore. Sounded like it idled fine but had no low end and one side wouldn't have any smoke or hot exhaust until i revved it up.

Vitos has them and they aren't that far away from you. I'm in cleveland and i get stuff in one day from them. I think it's either vitosperformance.net or .com. google it if need be or look in Dirtwheels

So, to sum it up, you can put anything that's slippery in it and it will be fine

Why big no?

I asked Vito's and they said to run Mobile One 5w30 full synthetic. They said that's what a lot of the road racing guys use. Used it for over a year now with no problems. Easy to find, too