WinNuke2003

I want to keep it really...selling it to buy a drag car project. I will have to get this bad boy posted on some different places...thanks for the comments though.

Lowered price to 3400

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Selling a 1996 Yamaha Banshee! This bike has been completely overhauled from the frame up. It

How do the cylinders look? Send pm with info and price. Thanks!

sorry but i cant do that....ends tomorrow so check it all out!

The wheels and tires, carbs and airbox are mint with about 4 to 6 hours on them taken off of my 06 shee. The rest are parts I have never used. Ask any questions through ebay and I will respond asap. Front wheels and tires. Rear wheels and tires. Stock carbs with cables. Stock airbox with extras. Cascade toomey t5 billet exhaust clamps NIB. Cascade toomey t5 billet exhaust clamps opened but never ran. Cascade brushed aluminum quick release flag holder.

I am looking to sale my 1991 A-Arm Banshee frame for $225.00. The frame comes with a new steering stem lock nut, but will need a new steering stem bearing and upper and lower seals. The only problem with the frame is the threads for the right lower fender bracket is stripped out. Other then that it is in great shape. I am located in central Nebraska and local pick up only. Pic1 Pic2 Pic3 Pic4

Yes but make sure you use peanut oil because it has a negative effect on gravity and shoots the water out of the crank casing where a two stroke should have oil!

I just got a set of 35mm pwk carbs and on the bottom of the right side carb the bowl that the jet rest above is hitting the clutch. I tried to grind it and it just needed like 2 more mm taken off but it made the bottom thin and broke.:yankyank: I can get a new one before I need to ride the bike, but what next? Spacers? Any info would be great.

You could also go to a 27.5 pilot jet. those jets are very very small like 9603banshee said...make sure you don't have a bunch of crap in them. hold them up to the light and if you cant see a perfect hole then they are clogged. Use your air and spay them out just to make sure any ways. Did you check your needle valves and seats? If they look weathered of if the seats have a bad ring around them get new ones. Make sure your gas line at the T valves is strait...not favoring one carb. Im also thinking that stock float height is 22mm...but don't take my word for it. Good Luck

Yes. A lot of trial and error. I think i just need to see what some other bikes are running and take my best shot. If it takes me all day....ohh well. Just once I get this bike dialed in I better shine up my tail light! :beer: Its gonna be a runner. Thanks for the input!

Thanks for the input. Im leaning for the 35mm pwk's. As long as i dont have to spend 50 on jets just to get my jetting on because im guessing. It does not help that jets for the pwk's run about 4 bucks a pop and are made of gold. I talked to a local builder today and he shot me the idea of putting a 15T on the front with a 43 44 on the back to optimise mecanical tourqe. What do you guys think?

I run a 4mm drag port and i switch from 400s to 410s and im at 2100ft, but Im also running toomey needles.....Strokers will run leaner jets because that extra velocity will pull more gas out of the same size jet. Shouldn't be hard to run a plug burn on the top of 4th or 5th and see whats going on. Start rich and look for that coffee brown! Good luck

I set mine at 22 thousandths. Should be 20 but its magnetic so a really tight 22 works. Also make sure you didnt swap the bowls on the carbs and your parking break is off. Good luck.

I would run the stock pilot jet with two turns out on the air screw, Toomey needles in the 5th clip starting 1 from the top. The toomey needles gets rid of that dead spot under the power band. and try a 360 to 340 main. I would start a little richer and work your way down. Lean it up on the hotter days. Good luck.

Weird...my plugs always burn a dark yellowish orange, and they are very even. Get a pic of the plugs

The shifting shaft that goes all the way from the left side of the motor to the right side (form sitting on the bike) probably needs to be adjusted. That shaft has a "Y" type deal on clutch side. When you push down it rotates the shift star clock-wise and vice versa. The shift star sits in the middle of that Y. There has to be an even amount of space in between the shift shaft and the pegs on the shift star at a resting point. There is a dowel that you can rotate that is off center to adjust it and a locking nut to keep it there. You have to remove the whole clutch to do it. Your shifting shaft is probably sitting too low at a resting point. It could also be bent forks. Tear it down and make the call. Hope that helps. :thumb:

If you are running stock carbs make sure that you dont have the bowls switched! Also check your needle valves and seats. hope you get her running

This is my setup as of right now. DirtWorx Stroker Drag Port, Wiseco 4mm HotRod Crank, Wiseco 795's +.020, VForce3's, RK Tech Head w/Custom Stroker Domes, Stock Carbs w/Big Jets and Toomey Needles, K&N Clamp-Ons, CPI Inframes, +4 Timing, R6 Clutch Pack w/Barnett 30% Springs and Pancake Bearing Mod, +4 Swinger, GBC Shark Fin Fronts and SkatTrak 10 Paddle Extreme Haulers with 72inch roll out all on Douglas Aluminum. First I could use some input on what carbs to go with and what I should try for jets. I know I'm gonna have to port out my vforce 3's and get new manifolds and filters. What manifolds should I go with? The big thing is that I am having trouble launching out of 2nd gear. I'm getting killed out of the hole but I have the top end to catch up no problem. When the sand is packed down and maybe a little wet I can, but when the sand is normal I have to launch out of first and its killing me. :: I know getting fat carbs will help but any tips on gearing and or tire size would be help full. I will also have my hands on some 10 paddle extremes with 70 inch roll out and some 10 paddle extremes 21x12x8's roll out unknown. Any input and advice would be great.

Do whatever you need to get out of the hole in 2nd gear. Im still having that problem because when I run 14T on front and 41T on back (stock ratio) I have to launch out of the hole in 1st gear. Im late getting out of the hole but my top end is unreal so I pull on most every bike at about mid track. I tried a 13T front and i could get out of the hole in 2nd no problem but if someone gets me out of the hole then I couldnt pull them on the top and I would loose more. .....unless your not even drag racing....then a 13T will just make your shee a little zippy on the dunes and trails. :shrug: