jbooker82

I would stay away from any a arms that use HEIM joints. They get dirt in them then they creek and pop. Wicked a arms might not be to bad. There is some LSR sport a arms on ebay for 499. There is a couple of I shock complete front suspension kits for 999. They include a arms, shocks, tie rods, and stainless steel brake lines. I have them on my raptor and they are built extreemly well. I would recomend them. josh

Yea a builder should be able to report for a drag port. I would go for a Dune port if your going to be hill shooting / climbing. In general a dune port gains you a bunch of top end but doesnt cost you near as much midrange as a drag port would.

NOLOGY coil with Hot wries.

A cool head doesnt really make your banshee run cooler. The biggest advantage of running a cool head is the ability to change compression ratio. Upping the compression will give you a stronger midrange. What elevation are you at and what type of fuel do you want to run? If your wanting to run Pump Preimum fuel then you need to shoot for around 150-155 psi of compression. A timing plate is a good mod too. Most people run 150-155 psi of compression with the timing set at +4 deg. The advanced timing also help out the midrange pull. josh

You could always flush it out with a couple of quarts of ATF type F. I wouldnt flush it out with 10 dollar a quart gear saver.

The one that is hooked to your rad just needs to be ran through the square loop that the throttle cable and clutch cable go through. Then just let it dangle down. Then you need a hose that runs from the radiator to the coolant bottle, it needs to be hooked to the bottom of the coolant bottle. josh

Your carbs could be out of sync. So the dead cylinder isnt running to its full potential causing it to sound weak. josh

If it is really buggin you that bad then try a different oil. I run Silkolene Comp Gear, Semi-synthetic ester based gear oil. I have ran bel ray gear saver, hond hp, automatic transmission type f. The silkolene comp gear stayed the cleanest the longest. it is an 80w oil though. If your wanting to try some thing thinner then try the Silkolene Light Gear oil. It is 75w http://www.silkoleneusa.com/gear_oil.aspx?..._OBJ_ID=1048908

And that is the same reason why I wouldnt run them. When the bashee gets hot they become super soft and will slip off or blow.

Since the banshee doesnt have a thermostat it is all over the place in running temps. I have a Prodesign radiator and when it is cold out mine runs from 140 deg to 170 deg with the temp measured right at the outlet in the front of the head. When it is hot out it runs from 190-210 deg.

I am not for sure what they are. They might be FZ1000 fibers. I would rather have a Larger OEM fiber than a small (narrow) fiber with Kevlar or Carbon Fiber. OEM's use corck wich doesnt make the oil get as dirty as fast and it isnt near as abrasive when there is fragments or grit in your oil. (dirty oil) josh

Jeff shoots for around 185 for his race fuel motors. That is what mine is at. I ran my patriot drag ported 4mill at 185 and +6 timing per dan wade. Jeff recomended +4 with 185 psi. josh

Mine does the same thing. It is just from sitting and cold temps. Oil is thick and doesnt flow good when cold. Let your banshee sit and the oil runs out of the clutch pack and the fibers become dry. Just start it up in Neutral, then rev it up a little and drop it in gear. If it dies doing this then there is a problem. I would get a FAST clutch if your going to change them out. josh

It will get really soft. It isnt rated for high temperatures. Good luck. josh

Every time I have broken a reed my banshee would only run on one cylinder. It was also sucking air in through the exhaust on the cylinder that had the broken reed.

The 660's are great machines. The 01's did have transmission problems. 2nd gear would go out. Yea everybody is going to say "get the latest and greatest 700, it is king over the 660". It is fun mesing with guys on my 4mill 720cc raptor.

My raptor is great on gas compaird to my banshee. I can ride about all day on 2 tanks of fuel with my raptor. It does have a little bigger tank than the banshee too. josh

how did you measure them?

I ran both on mine. I really couldnt tell a difference between them. They were both ran on FMF SST pipes. The turbine core is just a sparkarrested pipe. If you need a spark arrestor I would highly recomend them. Much better alternative to clamping on those hoky screens. josh

I did mine the manual way. #1 Make sure you have the proper amount of air PSI in your tires. Make a mark on the road where the valve stem is down. With you stitting on the banshee roll it letting the tire make 10 revolutions, ending with the valve stem at the bottom again. Meausre the distance between marks. Divide that meaurement by 10 this gives you the average diameter of the tire. The more revolutions you do with the tire the more accurate your measuement is going to be. Just divide you total lenght by how many revolutions = average tire diameter. Then take your tire diameter x 25.4 and it will give you your tire diameter in mm's.

It allows you to rotate the stator, and pickup coil. This makes the ignition fire earlier. It helps give a boost in midrange performance. Most people dont run over 4 deg running pump fuel, and 150 psi of compression, guys will run 6 or 7 if they are running race fuel, and 185 psi of compression.

make it so the edge where the opeainings in the sleeves are smooth, not sharp. His explains it pretty good. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamfer

Yep and it falls 2mm farther down in to the cylinder for a total of 4mm.

Yea that is what I woudl do. dont for get to chamfer the ports. If you leave them with shap edges you can snag a ring and mess the cylinders up in a hurry.

I run RK GB520EXW It is a gold plated o ring chain. It has a 8,500 tensile strength. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...odFamilyId=3591 For a front sprocket I would buy a good sprocket. Primary dirve front sprockets are 8 bucks. I would get a little better one my self. It takes the most wear and abuse. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...dFamilyId=23006