LiftdT4R

Thanks brotha! I need these gone!!

I have aset of FMF Fattys with silencers, preiced to sell, $160 shipped and won't go a penny lower!! Price is for an MO, pyapal add 5%. It's tough to see in the pic but there are a couple small dents in the ends of the silencers. Came off of a running bike, make for a good trail pipe. They are boxed up and ready to go, I ship next day, Parcel Post.

Bump Sale still pending on the cover. Still have the trans, make me an offer if you need it!

Awesome, sounds good, thanks for the info!! What would cause the piston to hit the sides of the cylinder like you see in the pics above? Was the bore done wrong or is it a piston issue? I think it's called piston slap right?

Hey, I have a stock crank, came out of a running 97 shee, looks to be in good shape, seals are newer, all bearings seem fine, rods have no up and down play. Would like 110 shipped. Also have a rear aluminum skid, little bent, kind of rough, priced to sell at 25 shipped. Includes hardware. All prices are for an MO, paypal add 5%. Thanks!!!!

Sale pending on water pump cover. Still have trans, bump!

Yo, Zach, I pulled apart the other motor last night, and the cases look awful. I can grab pics, but I wouldn't even sell them. If you want, you can have them for free if you take the cases listed above which are in fine shape. Also, let me know about the swinger because I've had some other interest in it as well.

They also need a couple studs, I'm open to offers as well, but these do cost $15 to ship. Thanks bro!

Hey, I pulled this piston out of a bike I'm parting out, and I never saw one like this before. It says WSM on the inside and it looks to be painted inside the castings. I'm guessing it's made by WSM but I've never heard of them. Are these pistons any good? I was also wondering what would cause this piston to drag or slap the inside of the cylinders, you can see the marks on the piston as well as the cylinder bore.

Hey, I just pulled the trans from a 1997 Banshee, ran and shifted just fine, also includes some hardware, and everything you see in the pics, shift forks, drum, etc. I will NOT seperate. I'd like 140 shipped MO or paypal add 5% Still have the Cascade Waterpump cover. Lots of PMs, but no takers, has hardware, 35 shipped or it hits fleabay.

I've got a set that has a bit of piston slap on the right side cylinder, would be perfect for a big bore kit, or would probably clean up by going 1 bore over on both. Not ported, and they look to be about 65mm. I'll do like 110 shipped if your interested.

Even if the ball is welded, doesn't the clutch usually work fine though? I've taken apart a few bikes where the ball was wleded to the pushrod, and I know the clutch still worked fine before I took them apart. I think his issue is more a clutch cable/adjustment issue.

Post up a pic! It would be easier to tell you, depends on what mods it has done other than the engine, and how it looks. I saw a running stock R in fair shape go for 1500 here, and Ive seen built Rs go for 5000. Without seeing the bike, I'm going to take a shot in the dark at 2200-2800. But if the thing looks clean and mean, it could go for more EDIT: I'm assuming its a Honda, the Zooks arent worth hardly anything anymore.

I'm guessing your running pods. I used to run a pod on a Blaster I had way back when, and the outerwear made a BIG difference. I dont think theyneed to be oiled, I never oiled the one I had. It's like a mini air-box around each filter, and I thought they were great when I had my Blaster. They kept a ton of shit out, and you can just pull them off and rinse them off after your done riding, they didnt seem to affect the performance too much either. For the price I don't think you can go wrong. As far as the cleaner, I don;t know of any other cleaner that works with K&N stuff, but someone else might.

I'm suprised no one took a shot at this. I'm not sure if Hinson makes clutch plates for a stock basket, but most guys on here are using the FAST clutch from FAST racing, or a TUSK clutch from Rocky Mountain ATV. Both work really well, and I havent heard any complaints about either. The axle nuts will spin loose occasionally, but not if you get them tightened up right. Follow the procedure in Clymer, hopefully wou have a Torque wrench, and the right spanner wrenches, if not, I would look into getting both. You should also be using the red/high strength loc-tite on the axle nuts. You can also buy an aftermarket single piece lock nut that works pretty good too. Never heard of the tires, good size tire, make sure the knobs look pretty agressive at least like Razrs, or else they might not get any bite.

As far as I know there isn't a screw adjustment in the case. The arm your seeing is attached to a half moon shape actuator that will push a clutch rod that moves the pressure plate and clutch in and out, its pretty simple really. The lever arm doesn't have to move much to engage the clutch, I should have said at most 45 degrees. Try moving the arm with your hand manually and see if you can get the clutch to engage/disengage that way. Is the problem that you can't get the clutch to engage or disengage. (If it's engaged the bike will act like its in neutral, if its disengaged the bike will always act as if its in gear). If the clutch won't engage I'd say its cable/cable adjustment issue.

I don't think it's going to get much quieter than that. FMF does make the q-series which is supposed to be a quiter silencer, so you could try those as the above poster said. I don't think I've ever heard a quiet banshee though, even stock they have a pretty distinctive sound.

As the above poster said, it is most likely a carb synch issue, or they could just be dirty. Also, ameks ure the carb bowls aren't swapped side to side, they are unique. The one on the side with the choke knob will have a tiny brass jet at the bottom. This will also cause this problem.

The cable may have strectched or you may have damaged something internally. I know hindsight is 20/20, but I NEVER let anyone ride my bike. This quick way to check whether its the cable or an internal problem is to look below the carbs and and see how much the cable is moving the clutch arm. It should swing no more than 45 degrees or so before the clutch is engaged. A quick fix to get less slack on the cable is to also move the clutch perch out farther on the bars, should get you a little more pull. Failing that you can always just put in a new clutch cable it's like $30 for a new one and that will tell you too.

Exactly, I'm glad I'm not the only one who's lost in the sauce. Your going to have to narrate that experience a bit better. The post made almost no sense, I don't understand how the quad was stolen or how "you got fucked without reacharound" on parts.

Good one!!!

My guess, probably not. But that is one helluva funny story. Was this listed under "Missed Connections"?

Pics:

I'm going to mark the singer and cases as SOLD.