Snopczynski

They are mikuni tm's. They need to have the slides, nozzles, pilots, needles, and mains checked for the right sizes though.

No cons. Pros: better timing curves, adjust on the fly, put any timing curve in you want, able to advance through programming.

The only thing that could be wrong with the cdi is too much timing. But your compression and octane seem to be inline to handle it no problem. Is it popping or backfiring at all?

190-195 main, eej or eek needle in center clip, 42-45 pilot jet, and air screw out 1.5 turns. Start there.

Here in the dunes of the NW, a torquey trail banshee out on the sand can be tons of fun.

I would run +4 timing with curve 3. Or run the timing stock on the plate and have someone program the advance on curve 3 at +4.

What octane fuel are you running?

Anything bigger than a 28mm on a trail bike is gonna hurt you. Even with a stroker. The bigger carb bores you throw at it, the less bottom end it will make, and the more top end it will make. A lot of people work on the mis-conception that if you increase cc, or port duration, or stroke, or compression, that you have to have all these honking big parts. The fact of the matter is, you make a bike go fast by matching up the parts, making the motor work efficiently, and tuning it properly. Doug Eichner, raced mickey Thompson indoor series back in the mid 90's. Saw him at the sand dunes in Oregeon in the summer of 1994. Raced some heavily built banshees, and other 250r hondas up boxcar. Crushed them, absolutely blew them away. Why??????????????? Well built factory race team motor, still under 260cc, still stock stroke, tuned well, right part combinations, and great suspension. We need to get of this, I like em big, now I think its fast, lets go pee on stuff kick that everyone is on.

I would run a set of 28mm pwk or tm carbs. No vf3 reeds, you want carbon tech low tension reeds on stock cages. Run a set of pro circuit pipes. Advance the timing 5 degrees, bump the compression up to at least 165 psi, preferably 180 psi or so. If you have it ported, do not raise the exhaust port at all. Remove the base gaskets and seal the jugs to the cases with some gel seal. Have your squish adjusted by machining the domes on your head. Lightning the flywheel with give you more torque, but take away your holeshot inertia. Put in a set of wiseco pistons, and get a dyna cdi and run it on curve 3. Your gonna need to upgrade the clutch too. If you can swing it, do a 4 mill crank, but keep the exhaust port low, preferably lower than stock would be.

NO, its too short by law to run around here.

Keep your current pipes at the least. That 2 into 1 intake is limiting your topend too much to run cpi's.

150-190

Cut plastics

White smoke is bad, thats burning water. Black or gray smoke is 2 stroke oil.

You dont have to keep it, you just have to ground it back near the cdi if it wont rev up.

I modified a vision x clamp to put my solstice light on the bars. Link

If you cut it, the bike may not rev past 3,000rpm. I cant remember though. You just ground it if that happens.

It is usually 4-20 weekend. So, from what I know it will be 4-17 thru 4-19. I am probably not going though.

If you blow through the fuel inlet tubes and close the floats, you shoul not hear air rushing through the needle/seat assy. It will hold pressure. Is that the float eight spec (13/16"???)???. Reeds need to seat against the cages with no light showing around the edges as you look through them. There is also a certain angle and amount of tension that the float arm should have as it presses against the needle to set the height properly.

Sometimes he gets them from LA Sleeve, sometimes from a place in Boring Oregon, sometimes from another place in Arizona, and there is another local company around here that I cant remember the name of.

A misplaced jet, bad reeds, improperly set float height, torn choke crossover tube can cause issues like this. Did it ever run good with this setup you have now?

2 into 1 pipes are not low-mid pipes. People need to Understand this! They are by far not quiet either. I dont run one anymore. I have Pro Circuits now. Those are much better low-mid pipes compared to a 2 into 1 exhaust.

I would run a set of Mikuni TM 32mm's, or a dual 33mm pwk setup.

My motor guy heats the stock cylinders in an oven, and presses the sleeves out.

You can buy a set of pt mids and csfx silencers from cascade. The pipes will actually ping louder than the sound that comes out the silencer ends.