Snopczynski

Dyno was with the dynoport pipe. I have the pro circuits and the dynoport in the garage. Need to sell the dynoport, and put the pc's on. Then gotta make silencer stinger tubes.

I used 1104 on those cases yesterday. I dont like it anymore. I will probably use 1211 or loctite 515 from now on.

I have a 2 into 1 pipe, and a 2 into 1 intake. It seemed a little ridiculous to me that I would give up 1.2 hp at 9k rpm, to gain .3 hp at 7,500 rpm. Its not bottom end at all, its midrange power. Like Dyno Dave said, he checked a big bore motor and a small bore motor on the crank dyno. It was worth it on the big bore, and it was not worth it on the small bore motor. You know, until you could look at the run time, hp, and torque curves on a dyno sheet when that was tested, I wouldn't go praising the reed spacers.

Ok, answer these 3, what do you use for sealers on the following. Stock steel head gasket: Stock steel base Gasket: Case Halves:

Sealed up the cases, thats ok now. It shifts good now, the 2-3 upshift problem under load is gone. I took the flywheel holder and put the right cylinder on tdc. Took off the radiator cap and pressurized the cylinder with my air compressor nozzzle. Bubbles in the radiator. So, just got to change the stupid stock head gasket. I like o-ring heads more.

It's leaking out of the case halves, I never had the cylinders or head off when I split it. I was thinking of hooking up my cylinder leakdown tester though.

Word is from my motor guy with a crank dyno, that on a bigger motor, they do make a difference for the good.

Well I split a motor for a friend and let my cousin help me. I used 1104 on the case halves and fired the engine up about 3 hours after I sealed it up. Anyone know the dry time on 1104? Cause it looks like gas is leaking out on the left front of the motor when its running. Also, bike runs about 30 seconds with no coolant in it. I go to pop the radiator cap off and it hisses off like theres pressure in it. I never tore apart the top end, but this seems like a bad head gasket. With coolant in it, it built up quite a bit of pressure in about 1.5 minutes of run time. Any input fellas?

Not true, lost top end hp and torque with the spacers. The midrange gain was only .3hp. The top end loss was 1.2hp!

soak it with pb, then air hammer or 1/2" extension with the 3lb sledge. Do yourself a favor and grease the new sleeve and bolt real good. Drill and tap the swingarm and put in a grease zerk on the pivot shaft area.

.012" fiber gasket? thats scary!

Kind of shitty actually. Had to drive out there 7 miles with the Rhino and bring it back in the bed.

What are they making the cub base gaskets out of? How thick are they?

It was on my best friends dad's dune bike. The guy is 52 years old. We were riding and I just watched it break off at the brake hub and the stub with tire went rolling past him.

So, Idiot holes? I dont know what vids rippen has.

We had a lonestar snap in half.

On a steel base gasket, use loctite 515 gel seal. Wont ever leak, easy to get off.

Yup, bought two from him so far.

I dont know what the yellow wire ohm check should be. The black should be 0-1.6 ohms to the timing plate or anywhere on the bike when installed for that matter. If its not, then something is still wrong with the ground.

you can probably get the needles from cascade innovations. They also sell the cables. Cascade Innovations Link

I hate how everyone always qoutes me incorrectly.

185 main jet, get both a dek and eek needle and set the dek in middle clip position to start. 45 pilot jet, 1.5 turns out on air screw. Adjust needles accordingly, then sit the pilot and air screw. Main jet should be super close to perfect.

You need to know from the cdi manufacturer how the cdi changes the ignition timing curve. Then you can know where to set the timing plate.

I use torchworks. You get awesome deals and he runs specials where h will throw in parts for free. Torch Works link

If its black, then its the ground wire. It goes on the stator plate. Look for broken solder joints or an eyelet just chillin on the plate. If you cant figure it out, let me know. I have a customers motor apart in the garage and I can look at the stator plate.