Snopczynski

if the case arrows line up and the lever is adjusted with about a nickel width of gap, then you want to check oil. Does the bike do it once warmed up.

hack off the stock carrier and weld on a round housing carrier. JJ and A racing link.

start at 185 main and work your way down for best topend result. Usually I start with an eek or eej needle in middle positon and adjust accordingly. 45 pilot jet and air screw 1.5-2 turns out. If you run a dek and you have a lean hesitation on the bottom end than try a dej needle. if its too rich on the bottom then you go to a del.

whats done to the bike, and why type of riding do you do?

Key word there was "alot", in the dictionary it does not mean the same thing as "All".

Your new here arent you! Like I said, it had a better torque curve and in most cases more hp. We have done rear wheel dyno and crank dyno testing. As well as real world riding and drag racing to compare these pipes to others. At 185 degrees duration this pipe outperforms everything else. 185 degree exhaust duration on a banshee is designed to make hp to 9k rpm. PC pipes max out on hp at about 8600 rpm. If this guy is running these now, and wants to look at a T5 and a shearer, he is gonna pickup anywhere from 1,000-1,500 rpm. If he is really going to make more power with these upgraded pipes, then he grossly overlooked his original pipe decision and completely picked the wrong pipes for his setup (porting) in the first place. I am well aware of how pipes affect power, and well aware of what pipes do what for power. Admitadly I do tend to gravitate towards gainning knowledge on low-mid pipes as I am more interested in that type of power. But a jump from pc's to t5's or a shearer is a bit odd in my book. Here is one of those real world drag race tests I am so unknowing about. Featured here is a ported 350 with dual 28mm tm's and pro circuits (green bike), then a cascade built 4 mill stroker with paul turner mids (yellow bike), then a ported 350 with 2 into 1 35mm pwk and paul turner mids (black bike), and finally my bike the blue light special with a ported 350, 2 into 1 pwk 35mm carb, and pro circuits. P.S. I win! It is very important to match the pipes to the motor they will be bolted to. Banshee drag race link

stainless pipes are about $1000 for just the two head pipes, so almost no one gets them except the factory sponsored guys. Most of the manufacturers all make them, but no one buys them.

I think it is id, you need to contact cpi to find out exactly, or have someone on here check theirs.

the needle controls almost everything on those 2 into 1 setups. Off hand it looks like your running the wrong needle, too small of a main jet, and a slightly too large pilot jet. However, you did not post what was done to the bike and where it is riffen.

they didn't make a 34mm pwk. so is it a 34mm pj, or a 35mm pwk? Is 1/4 throttle sluggish as in rich, or hesitant as in lean?

They sound like fmf, bills, and all the other companies with mid size silencer cans.

You may be right, but easiest way to tell that I know of is to check the stinger outlet size.

I ride the dunes, my eexhaust duration is setup around 185 degrees and I use pro circuit pipes. I like them alot, and cant really ever see myself wanting to get rid of them. All the dyno testing we have done lately has showed they were the torquiest pipe, and in most cases made the most hp. I see alot of people choose pipes cause they are popular or recommended by people who have only used them and not any other pipe. The right way to do this is figure out what your porting is setup around and then choosing a pipe that will make your port job work the best.

The 1" is the "big bore"pipe. The 7/8" stinger outlet is the small bore pipes.

Not since cod4 came out. I might be selling halo now.

X mitter bar link

there are some mr16 type led bulbs that can be put in trail tech or lazer star housings. I can get the new vision x led xmitter bars for cheap also. The mounts for those have to be custom fabbed though.

you shouldn't have done that. The cases already are smaller than the transfers, now there is going to be an even bigger step. Transfers just need to be smoothed out, not hogged out or opened up. All in all, you really shouldn't play with them unless you have a 90 degree grinder and 3-4 hours to waste.

not much. did you open the base of the transfers? most of the transfer work has to be done on the radius and the port window.

myth busted with the football on mythbusters.

Leave the bump in the outlet on the aux. transfers, it helps the boost port emulsify the a/f charge better.

Just because it looks like crap, doesn't mean it is messed up. You have to actually "try" to mess up a set of banshee cylinders. Post some pics. and do you have a dial caliper?

I ordered the book last monday off amazon, and had it by wednesday. Remember, the book gives theory and starting points. Most of it is geared around road racing though.

have any idea what your exhaust duration is on your porting before I go recommending a pipe?

the cases already have to be hogged out to match the transfers so dont open the transfers up at the bottom. Buy this book and read it before you pick up the dremel. 2 stroke tuning