Snopczynski

start with an eek and adjust accordingly. Keihin Needle Chart

Are those vision x hids? Which amp size battery did you go with?

so you emailed them and heard what back from them? Did you email them, not hear anything and then posted on here assuming they were not going to warranty it or give it back?

So what was RS reason for keeping the stator?

Whatever, I dont believe that one bit.

Waterpump bearing????? Trans main or aux shaft end bearing?

The winding poles (not the wire windings) were a different color. I dont think we should assume that RS is a bad company or their warranty is going to hell just because andrew_ballard is telling us they refused to warranty his unit. I would say there is a strong chance he is not telling us the whole story, or maybe he didn't realize something that was broken or damaged from improper install or operation. Like I said, my flywheel rivets came loose, and I got a new stator and a flyhweel, my bike was still running when I pulled it all off. So, in my mind, thats a pretty good warranty scenario and does show how well they handled the situation. Of all the banshee owners on here, there are only a few who complain of problems, and we dont stand for ALL the people who own RS stuff. You never hear someone just come out and post "It works great I love it". Almost all the posts on here are from people who are having problems with components, tuning, or understanding how something works.

Well a few weeks ago I sent in my flywheel and stator to get warrantied. The fywheel rivets came loose and the flywheel contacted the stator. I got a new flywheel, and the stator they sent back had green pole contacts instead of red like the one I sent them. I am thinking they either changed the stator design in the last few months, or got a new vendor and have them made by someone else now.

2nd prestige, lvl 24 now. God I hate the G3 and any sniper rifle besides the barret.

cascade heavy duty.

we use alot of their stuff, and honestly. The only non-install induced problem we had is loose flywheel rivets on a lightened flywheel. But, we had it lightened, so who is to say that they didn't stop chuck the lathe on it, and cause it to get slightly loose in the first place. Alot of problems people have, is they just bolt on the flywheel and expect everything to work. Pickup gap needs set, you need an rs regulator, you need to seperate the light wiring from the harness, and you need to regulate the lights after the switch if you can (upgraded switch with at least 18 amp contacts in it). This keeps everything from melting together, ruining stuff, and causing runability issues. So, people say they know how to install a stator, but I bet they didn't know all this had to be done to install ia 200w rs unit properly. Then someone will say, well rs says its a stock drop in thing. Well, it is, but you need to re-run some stuff to ensure longevity. Your adding a 100w to the stock regulator, and when the bike is running with lights off, it is shunting 200w to ground at 6k rpm through the regulator.

I think cascade sells the oem new ones for $89

Why does everyone look or ask for pics of ported cylinders. You cant tell how a cylinder is ported by looking at pictures. The most crucial and big changes made to porting are port window heights. I dont get how looking at a picture of the intake, or the bottom of the transfers gives everyone a good viewpoint as to the radical port job the cylinders have. Only way to check and look at porting is by checking port window heights and sizes. Those are the crucial things that determine the power range.

I use ricky stator products, and have done so since the 90's. Only times I see there stuff messed up is when its installed improperly, and I have had no problems with their stators. Not to mention, we had a bike that ran one of their 200w units for 6 years, finally we had the stator warrantied out because it got so corroded on the ground, that the lights wouldn't work anymore. Excellent customer service.

You better quit looking at the brakes and check the flywheel then. Sorry, I couldn't resist. :biggrin:

stock duration on a banshee is 178-179 degrees depending on your deck tolerance and base gasket. raising it 1mm will bring it to about 184.5-185 degrees. Thats good for a motor that is about a 9k-9500 rpm peak horsepower motor. at 178 degrees, it should be setup for a decent power range that is centered to arounf 6500-7k rpm. Thats what I would want to run on the trails.

there should always be power to the regulator regardless of switch position. When the main switch is on hi or low, there should be power to the tail light and the corresponding headlight wire circuit.

I think its an 85 or 86 lt250r quadracer chassis.

If you widened the window, now you have to widen the transfer tract all the way down to match it. It cant be bulged out at the end. You really should read bells book before you do this stuff. There is alot of ramping and shaping that has to be done in all the ports to direct the a/f charge into the cylinder properly.

raising the exhaust port 1mm will drastically effect bottom and midrange power. That changes the exhaust duration alot. I would not move it at all if your riding trails. You need to read Bell's book before doing your own porting.

WHICH CYLINDER, AND WHAT DOES THE SMOKE LOOK AND SMELL LIKE?

its probably mostly running off the needle. Take it out, warm it up (ride around a little), and then run it full blast wot for two passes in 5th gear. Then on the 2nd pass shut it off after 4 sec's wot in 5th gear. Pull in the clutch and coast to a stop and pull the left plug and see what the color is. I was running like a 190-195 main for a while and the plugs kept coming out whitish. I figured out the fuel was washing down the plug. I went to a 185 and it started to turn dark brown finally.

rm is a distributor for Ricky. Were are you lining up your timing marks at? On a rs plate it is supposed to be zero mark even with the case halves on the right side as you sit to the side of the bike and look at it.

It works well in most motors that turn 9500-10,500 rpm. I have one in my friend stroker with ptr mids. I think I currently have a eej in my bike.

get yourself a test light or a meter and unplug the yellow wire out of the case. start the bike and probe the wire for volts. If you have volts, then you need to plug it in and check your bulbs. If they are all blown then you probably have a bad regulator. next step is to check the regulated voltage of the circuit at 6k rpm. It should be arounf 12.3-12.8v or so. all your grounds have to be good, and the regulator has to be plugged in.