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Everything posted by Mullet Man
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i dont know about all that, i max mine out on pavement and havent what he describes. i would check to see if you front hub nuts are tight! if you can wiggle the tire around on the hub, they are loose! and can definately be the problem
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people with stock banshees....
Mullet Man replied to Mullet Man's topic in General Banshee Discussion
OK, this is how i did the measurements http://i14.tinypic.com/2wqcpqt.jpg notice how its hooked into the peg (outside edge of the very outside tooth) and i have the hub kicked all the way to the right. i get 25 1/4" then this one, hub still kicked all the way to the right i went from inside of the left brake bleeder (caliper metal of the bleeder, not the actual bleeder) to same on the right side i got 35 1/4" http://i14.tinypic.com/4ccrfqt.jpg -
people with stock banshees....
Mullet Man replied to Mullet Man's topic in General Banshee Discussion
thanks alot man! :cool: how exactly did you measure it? i want to do it the exact same way!! i'm not sure what to consider the backing plate on the 4 wheeler. lol and is the hub measurement to center of castle nut from the peg kickup? i'll take pics of how i did mine. -
no shit shirley. and who was in control of the house and senate before yesterday? and who knew with all the scandals and the way the last 5 years have gone that they were in serious risk of loosing control of both? and who has major ties with the oil industry? there is a one word answer for all 3 questions and its the same word!....i'll give you some time to think about it i predict gas prices to rise dramatically over the next few months
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must have bonestock front suspension! i need a favor, from someone since i did my a-arm upgrade, i forgot too measure the width of stock suspension so i could compare it to the new width. what i need is someone to take both front wheels off off their banshee and measure from brake caliper to brake caliper. just turn the bars ALL THE WAY to the right side (when sitting on it, preferably holding in position tight) and measure thru the frame caliper to caliper inside to inside. then i need one more measurement. i think the easiest for this one would be to hook a tape measure into the end of the stock footpeg so its right into the end before it kicks up. and with the bars still in the right turn position measure out to the center of the front right hub bolt (center of the castlenut). any one willing to do that? shouldnt take but a few minutes to perform! ideas on a better way too measure? let me know
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good deal. congrats "OKbeast"! and thanks Red for the raffle. very cool of you
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bye bye Rumsfeld. :beer:
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yeah no doubt. wonder if they could do chains also. and brake rotors! but it seems like this is the same as cryogenically freezing hard parts. not in process but in performance
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contact "Eazy" Adam. good friend of mine! has a 2000 banshee. fast bike lots of new stuff too! pm me for his phone#. i dont think he checks here too often. he is in Mason City IL (just west of Lincoln) central IL.
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yep. on that certain detail! i'd almost* be willing to bet everything i owned. that had the Bush admin "stayed the course" ( ) with a military response in Afghanistan like in Iraq (+ severe political pressure on Pakistan), that they would still have control of the house. (*almost, only because Republican domestic issue's and there resolutions for them are a joke) American people spoke yesterday. the "war" is the hot button issue right now. and it showed!
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he needs killed!! so does Saddam!!
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FS: DG nerfs *pics* + free extras 4buyer
Mullet Man posted a topic in For Sale - Parts & Accessories
all hardware included. nets barely sag. see pics great shape, i will also clean them nicely before shipping! will throw in a DG alloy grab bar, stock style! in great shape! will include factory heel guards for free! pics http://i14.tinypic.com/47jc97a.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/2hgtqnk.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/4870ow8.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/4h3afex.jpg bolt on and go $160 shipped to the lower 48 states, for everything above! money orders or paypal! I prefer money order tho ships FedEx Ground, with tracking number! Steve -
http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=68747 i have that
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will do man. hey guys, i went thru and edited my 1st post, tell me what you think. its in "how to" style now. i will edit it again once i get the spacers installed. if i get them installed. as of right now, they are not needed
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sorry, i never measured stock. i should have known too do that!!if someone wants too add to the thread, that has a stock bike, take some measurements for us and tell how and where you measured. and i will do the same on mine. about the best i can do now. i havent mounted the wheels yet either. i do know by looking at it, that they are not farther back then stock! sorry man thanks! the advantage is, they are about 2inches wider. more stable ride. with better shocks then what comes on the banshee. plus this is a shitload cheaper then buying aftermarket a-arms and shocks
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i cant completely finish my install until Thurs. one of the ball joints on the lower arm was fucked up so i have to wait until it comes in at the dealership. then i can finish and give a ride review but, this turned out to be extremely EASY! i got tired of trying to find a machine shop to cut my arms for me. plus one place wanted to charge me $50 for 4 simple cuts that would take 5min. this made me want to do it myself. i will find the spacers needed at a later date. you can see where they will go in the pictures. after unbolting the front suspension, the only thing you need too remove from the front brake/spindle assembly, is the brake caliper. you can leave the brake line attatched to the caliper for this. once you remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper on the spindle, slide it thru the upper a-arm and put it off to the side some where. preferably resting on something so you arent letting it hang by the brake line. next, pop out the black bushing, you only need to pop out the bushing on the side you will be cutting (the 4 outside bushings, 2 on each lower a-arm). trim the bushing down a 1/4". this is to make sure you dont cover up the hole for the greese zerk. then take some sand paper and taper the edge you just cut, this will make it easier to get the bushing back in the mount pic of trimmed down black bushing, compared to one that isnt trimmed.. http://i13.tinypic.com/2h4lwr5.jpg the a-arm mounts need to be trimmed down to 1 7/8" from outside edge of one bushing to outside edge of the other bushing. NO trimming needs to be done at all on the inside of the bushing mount. its easiest here, to trim off some material. install the bushing back in the mount, measure where you are at on length and if it needs more trimming, remove the bushing and trim some. "rinse and repeat" until you have the mount with the bushings installed at a width of 1 7/8" DO NOT cut the steel sleeve that slide into the black bushing. you dont need too cut that at all. you can just reuse it as is! pics... rear mount drivers side http://i14.tinypic.com/437zwh2.jpg front mount drivers side http://i14.tinypic.com/29xi07q.jpg a few front shots of what it looks like...check out how the tie rod and upper a-arm are almost in perfect aligment. they will be even closer to paralell once i tighten down the upper ball joint. http://i14.tinypic.com/484nfkp.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/357othh.jpg http://i14.tinypic.com/3yd4qco.jpg
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Brooke is bored.....yawn. read, just one of them. its all old knowledge http://www.newyorker.com/fact/content/articles/040216fa_fact http://www.halliburtonwatch.org/about_hal/chronology.html this one especially http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/1138009.stm want more? http://www.commondreams.org/views04/0111-01.htm http://www.iht.com/articles/2006/05/04/business/energy.php http://www.globalresearch.ca/articles/CAV111A.html what more do you need? something in writing that says "i President Bush and my Vice President Cheney have used the US military as a front for an oil war in the middle east" is that the proof you are looking for keep playing the games, you wont be soo bored then
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ahh yes, oh so weak references. keep playing your games, its amusing. :thumbsup:
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ahh yes, i am a crazy madman with insane conspiracy theories! imprison me now for even thinking this blasphemy. see i can do sarcasm too. :ohmy: in a nutshell. Bush's....Saudi royal family Bush's....Texas oil tycoons Cheney....Halliburton mix them all together, throw in a little hard ass Rumsfeld a splash of Wolfowitz and you have one nasty cocktail called Iraq. best served on ice. becareful tho, that leaves a foul after taste.
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i tell you what, i will go back to my land of make believe, when you can prove any of my so called "conspiracy theories" wrong with 100% pure fact! sounds like an even wager, no?
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you are right, in a sense. the oil prices skyrocketed because we entered Iraq. it has now dropped for the last 2 months partly due to the upcoming elections and all the scandals lately plus the blunder that is Iraq. this is all in a ploy to some how swing votes to the Republican side. they know they are fucked when tomorrow ends. the American people will speak with a control change in the house. hell, you answered your own question or statement. you even said oil prices are low because of elections. now how does that happen? hmmm lets think about that for a second...oh, N/M read above go back and read my post about where we should have went and how we should have "stayed the course" bad judgement is being drunk and taking a fat chick home with zits on her ass. bad judgement is running that yellow light and getting plowed by a turning car. going into Iraq was not "bad judgement", it was a cold calculated move by the administration for a couple of reasons that the blind followers fail to see.
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LMFAO. right, the President personally makes the phone calls to lower and raise gas prices! in fact, he calls each and every gas station. hell, that actually makes sense. seeing as how he has done jack shit otherwise too help our economy. thanks for pointing that out! i'm done explaining. either you are too stupid to want to know or too stupid to understand. go ahead, pick one it doesnt matter to me.
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i have thought about that. and i'm hoping, that i can stick washers inside the dust caps. this way it will be hidden. they are just deep enuf that one slim washer should fit. then, i would only need to trim the bushings slightly so they will fit.
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i'm not quite sure yet, i still have to cut the mounts. but, it appears that they will atleast be in the stock location. i will post up once i have the arms cut and mounted. that was my original plan. too have inserts welded into the arms after cutting off the bushing mounts. then installing half inch heims. problem i run into with this is the welding and having to take them someplace for the work to be done. it would be a very easy way to do it for someone with welding experience tho! the way i am trying to do it now is the most "economical" for me at this point. at the advice of a member on here, i'm going to take the arms to a metal supplier. have them cut the arms for me with a band saw and i should be able to re use the pieces they cut off as the spacers that i will need!
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these are some questions i was asked. i will answer them to the best of my knowledge from what i have come across so far. as well as 1 or 2 judgement answers Q: those upper a-arms look like they are bolted in perfectly? A: yes, the upper a-arms bolted in perfectly without any modification as of yet. still i havent gotten far enuf along in this too know whether or not they will need any. but from what i see so far, if there will be any modification needed it appears to be very minimal. Q: the lowers are off by just a fraction of an inch. now couldn't you just cut the welds and move the mounts? A: yes, you could probably do that. but i do not know how too weld very good. and i surely dont truct my welding on a suspension that i will be jumping on! now, it looks like from as far as i have gotten that i should be able to do this without any welding what so ever. it appears that i will be able cut off the excess on the lower arm (outside edge of the mount) and be just fine with where the arm will be positioned....based off where i am at so far. Q:wouldn't that be easier to do than cutting the arms? A: that depends on how good of a welder you are. i think the majority of users that will tackle this project will be joes like myself without much welding background. plus it doesnt take much to take an angle grinder to cut off what needs removed. i am not sure exactly how i am going to cut the mounts down yet tho. might go somewhere after i mark what needs to be cut, or i might just hit it with an angle grinder Q:also from the pics it looks like the arms angle back, what if you put the arms on the other side wouldn't that move your front wheels forward, would that even work? A: i tried that but when they are flipped, the front of the upper a-arm, which when flipped left to right, making it the rear, will be aligned right down the center of the lower a-arm. making it impossible to install the shock. hope that helps some! i will have more info as time allows me too work on this Steve

