Mullet Man

go for it then. i personally wouldnt use the stuff after seeing what i have seen. ask them if they are going to buy you new pipes if they do rot. ask them if their product voids warranties. heres another idea, (there is cheaper versions also) http://cgi.ebay.com/NT2-THROAT-MICROPHONE-...1QQcmdZViewItem radio not included if riding with a passenger is that important, this is the best route anyway

GO BLUE :beer:

a young Republican?

also need some main jets for stock carbs, 290-320, i need too fatten it up for the cold weather

bump

:thumbsup: you only need 1 washer per mount, ~1/16" thisk with a hole large enuf for the bolt to go thru 5 pages :beer:

the lower mount should rotate. atleast i think thats how the YFZ's are. IIRC haha N/M i see the mistake on my part

take a look at the pictrues again, they are in there, and have to be used. the spacer is needed to go over that dowel/sleeve, too make it more asthetically appealing. but i believe the dowel/sleeve takes all of the load! i did have to use washers, which you can see in the pics. the washer take up the space left by not using the lower dust caps. you cant even tell they are there unless you are really looking for them! proof, no one noticed them yet on here (i didnt say anything on purpose just too test that idea)

good deal man! its cake, you will see! just dont take too much material off, the tighter the fit the better! if you happen to come up with spacers before i do, let me know!

what is the difference between them?

i'll trade a stock airbox with lid, Toomey filter and airbox vents, for your pod filters...

i think the study "RNBrad" is referencing is actually about Mexicans (but hispanics in general). it is based off of all the more recent "what to do about illegals" talk that has been going on.

the sleeve that goes over the a-arm bolt and into the a-arm bushing. i only need one, so i can use it to find the correct spacer needed for my a-arm conversion. (i sold my a-rms with the sleeves before i got a chance to do this)

cool. why i ask that is, i'm not sure on ideal tierod too a-arm angles. thats what i was wondering about. but none of the ball joints or tie rod ends look stressed ( or "over angled", for lack of a term) at all in any position. all of the aftermarket arms i see on banshees, the tierod too a-arm angle is no where near what this looks like. update on pricing. i sold my stock arms and tie rods for $100. plus $25 for the replacement ball joint and $1 for a pack of 10 new cotter pins plus i forgot i sold my stock shocks for $50 back in April this brings my grand total down to $226

time to buy a Corvette :laugh: i feel for ya man! you're only as old as you let yourself be!

i understand that. but, you seem to know a little bit about suspension. does it look fucked up, in anyway? lol

over 1000 views now, no other input? i guess this isnt as big a hit as doing just the shocks

come on man, its a fake.....sheesh science is bogus in all aspects!

its gonna be a while man lol. i live 180 miles south of my parents (where the banshee is). i will be back up there on Thanksgiving day. i usually only travel up there for work when i have too.

:beer: Stewart and Colbert in '08 lol "burning bush, virgin birth, something that makes sense" lmao

you know, after some more researching, i think i found out that '06 arms are the same as '04-'05. but i havent asked anybody that would know 100% for sure tho. they certainly do not appear to be different

thats what i thought. thanks anyone know a good message forum where i can find info about these? N/M, found Z400central.com

2004 KFX400 is basically the same drivetrain as an LTZ400 right? what would a standard rebuild cost for this motor? (piston/rings, valves, springs, timing chain etc.)

cool!! if you guys would, post info you have as you go along doing this!! if i have any more advice on this install, its test fit (eyeball the lowers) before cutting to get an idea, then cut some, re eyeball the fit, cut some more if needed and keep doing it that way until you get it nice and tight and the upper a-arm clears the shock. the shock should clear the upper arm by just less then a 1/4" or so (install upper arm 1st before tackling the lower arm) "ozosborne", i think you could do that but the cut you will be making on the lower will need too be extremely thin to end up with the thickest piece left over. i was going to try this also but gave up on trying to find a place to cut it for me. some grease will come out of the lowers also but grease isnt water, you wont loose that much. the grease nips will be fine, they have enuf room behind them where they wont come in contact with the frame!

my G/F has 14 tats. i have none