Mullet Man

yo 'posse' aint gat nothing on ma dawgs... http://www.geocities.com/icyhotstunnaz/ be sure to click the links in there

whats up with that?!

share the website...

looks like crap but thats suppose to be a swap arrow between the main (key) and engine stop (kill). plus the splice is circled, the R/B wire coming out of the CDI

the keyed, would be the main switch (4 wires that turns into 2) in the wiring diagram in that link. you would need to bypass it like bansh-eman said, where it shows at the cdi in that diagram of the wiring harness that is cut down, so its on all the time. then in the same diagram, where the kill switch is, just wire in the actual key switch instead of the kill. to me that means the key will now be the ignition kill and the main will be on (because of the splice). then just address the headlight wiring. :shrug:

me personally, no. i have a tether wired into the stock kill wires (light and kill switch eliminated) and havent rewired my lights to a toggle yet. i do still use the key switch (main) also. but i dont see why the factory kill/ignition couldnt be wired into the key switch, when combined with the splicing of the key switch wires together...?

i see it now, i dont see why it wouldnt work.. both black wires (from key and from kill) go to the headlight and then the other on each switch runs back to the CDI. splice the keyed wires like bansh-eman said and then route the kill wires or wire over to the key switch. the main will always be on (effectively eliminating the key) and the kill switch controls power. shouldnt be any different then leaving your key in the on position all the time and just using the kill "as the main" i dont think anyway, lol i'm just thinking out loud http://www.bansheehq.com/index.php?option=...2&Itemid=28

cant you just take your kill/light switch apart, find the ignition wires in there, run them to the key switch and use it as the ignition. then do what Banshe-man (aka Mr. huge signature lol) said about splicing the key wires together..? then use a toggle switch for your lights. EDIT: or just leave the kill/light switch there for the light function only... no?

a slight one...you just gotta be overly enthusiastic about it. lol

ehh close enuf lol good dealing man! :thumbsup:

only if you shaved it on one side then combed the remaining hair over one eye (you wont be able to find the bridge if you cover both eyes up), put alot of mascara on, then jumped off a bridge wearing a black trench coat

troof my G/F has that crap, i make fun of her all the time because of. best way to get attention is to jump off a bridge...but its best to wait until the news vans show up.

why do you need a coolhead? whats wrong with the trinity? i have a coolhead and 22cc domes. the head has a dent in it, where it looks like someone whacked it with a hammer a couple times to unstick it from the cylinders, also needs o-rings. i have the studs and coolant neck for it tho)... are the domes interchangeable bewteen the 2?

LOL

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/products.../2/0/specs.aspx theres some of your answers. inside tire width i dont know

fucking a bro. niiice Shee. and those 70's are just plain out cool!!

i think 'Climbanyhiilyoupointat" has a nice one. (or whatever the guys screen name is lol)

listing this for a freind, he is located 30miles north of Springfield IL. he is willing to deliver/or meet up somewhere at a reasonable distance $2500 is what he wants out of it. bike is quick and fun to run! 2000 Yamaha Banshee- Bored .040, Vito's Performance forged pistons/rings Machine work was done by Capital City machine in Springfield,IL. Boyesen reeds w/carbon fiber cages Carbs have been jetted, along with new needles/seats( in the past 6 months) Shearer inframe drag pipes, with the chrome finish. POD filters with KN outerwears. FAST heavy duty clutch w/ all 6 springs new rear tires new front brakes RS adj. timing plate +4* timing The front fenders have been race cut by the previous owner. No holes or huge gashes in the plastic, just usual wear. The seat has one tiny hole in it, a little smaller than a dime. Other than that, its in pretty good condition for its age. This quad will fly, so its not a beginner bike . Its got the factory silver wheels on it, not the polished ones like the pics show. Shoot me some offers, and willing to meet halfway, depending your location. All the top end work, was done less than 6 months ago. Gotta sell this!

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=72224 there is some info on Vito's

thats alot of fasteners haha good stuff man :thumbsup:

:yelrotflmao: The NFL announced today that, for financial reasons, they had to eliminate one team from the league. So, they've decided to combine the Green Bay Packers and the Tampa Bay Buccaneers and form one team, causing many layoffs but saving millions of dollars in costs. They will be known as the..........TAMPACKS. Unfortunately, they're only good for one period and have no second string...

if you use a precharger, dont use any oil. if you dont use a precharger, use some foam filter oil. dont forget to check plugs, might need too rejet (more air=more fuel) the switch should be there tomorrow.

i'me sure you could find a local buyer if you tried. why risk it, or go thru the hassle?

or you could just cut up your airbox and still utilize the pro flow adapter. this will keep the weight of the carbs on the front airbox supports and you will have an open filter and not have spent any money. like this http://i16.tinypic.com/48n7dw9.jpg i had a Toomey filter that i slid over the pro flo foam filter (the pro flo filter was old) thats why it is red, then i bought a precharger for it. i also put some stainless allen head bolts on the top and bottom so it is sealed tight (~$0.40 each at ACE) works great :thumbsup:

so, how bout them Cubs?