easyrider470

Ok, so i took the clutch off and the shifter is moving just fine up and down and it is returning to center when released. I did notice that it moves in and out enough to loose contact with the shift star tabs. Also, i noticed that with my wife moving the shifter, when the fork engages the star it DOES NOT MOVE THE STAR...even under heavy pressure and rocking the bike back and forth the transmission will not go into gear....seems like something is binding the star? Is that possible? Am I doing the wrong kind of check here...i never had any type of issue with putting the bike in gear before!!!! Let me know if I am on the wrong track or if i need to dig deeper.

Ok, so i took the clutch off and the shifter is moving just fine up and down and it is returning to center when released. I did notice that it moves in and out enough to loose contact with the shift star tabs. Also, i noticed that with my wife moving the shifter, when the fork engages the star it DOES NOT MOVE THE STAR...even under heavy pressure and rocking the bike back and forth the transmission will not go into gear....seems like something is binding the star? Is that possible? Am I doing the wrong kind of check here...i never had any type of issue with putting the bike in gear before!!!! Let me know if I am on the wrong track or if i need to dig deeper.

ok so i have an 02 shee with minimal mods....been super reliable for years...strictly dune ridden. I am guilty of not always using the clutch when riding so I had this coming i suppose. Long story short the bike got stuck in a high gear...i think it was 3rd or 4th and the clutch level was moving but not down shifting the bike....i stopped and really kicked the shift lever pretty hard...i heard a grinding like when you are trying to find a gear in a stick shift car and then it slid into gear....wasn't first gear but it was 2nd. So i pulled the cover off today and there isn't anything obvious broken but the shift lever has a bunch of movement in and out....so the shifter fork isn't engaging the tabs on the shifter star.....i need to get the basket off to confirm what i am seeing though....what size socket do i need and does anyone know exactly what the issue is with this thing based off what I am describing??? Thanks a ton.

WOW..a .42 pilot...that is the factory size. The bike rips BIG TIME....the idle was a little off that is for sure...it really doesn't idle at all....but hell who needs a Banshee that can IDLE???? HAHA seriously though I will try a smaller pilot.

So a bigger needle? WOW....ok i have a CEL needle but that appears to be even MORE lean than the DEK i am currently running. This bike freakin RIPS...and I have NEVER EVER fouled a spark plug with this set up either...I would like to know what needle I should go with. Or would adjusting the clip help???

Thanks. I like the power way better....I am strictly a dune rider and find that the transitions and slow spots where you would kind of have that low end bog with twins is gone with the single carb.....it's better all around in my opinion. The stock carbs are a joke...so do yourself a favor and get rid of them whatever road you take will be better than those crappers.

to small? You mean to BIG??? Smaller pilot jet meaning a .50 or a .48...I see.

So, here's the deal....i had my 2 into 1 dialed in running great with a regular 35 mm carb. I got a smokin deal (free) on an AIRSTRIKER 35 and decided to see if there would be any low end benefit anyhow long story short I installed the same set up I had in my other 35 mm carb the set up is as follws..... 190 main/.52 pilot/ and a DEK needle with the clip on the 4th groove. The problem is the bike won't idle at all....i actually had this prob when I have the other carb on as well but after turning the air screw WAY WAY in so it was almost tight the bike idled and ran like a striped ape.....the issue is that I also had to turn that air screw in ALL the way to get the new carb to hold an idle also.....is there somethibng I can do to correct this idle issue? Like I said the bike was running AWESOME with a standard 35MM carb....

i am not really interested in trading but I would sell you my 2 into one set-up for 350 shipped.

you got it.....i'm just going to bring the whole bike.....we can take a look at it together........with it running and all that good stuff then we'll make a call on what we think it is. It'll be Friday afternoon......you take early fridays right????? HAHA let me know what time friday works for you...i'll have most of the afternoon wide open.

yes, it's a shaved head.....but I had it on there a long time ago...the first time it blew up.....you told me that you checked it out and it was good after you did the re-build?????? i'm thinking that it could be some of the problem?????

But the motor was just apart and the head was verified to be true.........the coolant isn't burnt or anything, just coming out the overflow......this is the first time the bike has ran since the re-build.....head was verified to be true.

Ok.....just a little history quickly so you're up to speed......last year the bike ran great all desert season...NO ISSUES.....last trip it overheates and I melt the left piston....so I have Kevin at her jugs re-build the motor he bored it slightly to clean up the cylinder walls and split the cases to weld the crank.........checked the head it was still true.....everything panned out just fine. So i take it out last saturday and ride for about 30 minutes and sure enough the damn thing is spewing out coolant through the overflow tube......not boiling hot coolant but just spitting it out as I ride through the overflow..... so i put it on the trailer......take it all apart when i get home and there apears to be nothing wrong...nothing obvious.....i had the radiator checked out and they said it flowed fine.....but the cap was bad.....wouldn't hold any pressure....i re-installed it....filled up the radiator started the bike and right off the bat it started spitting out coolant.......i figured it was just a little over filled so i put the cap on and let the bike get warm....took it up the street and back a couple times and it was pissing out coolant....not a crap load but a steady drip......any time yuou rev it the thing spit out coolant........it'll idle and drip coolant out the overflow tube......the impellar spins when you kick the bike so i don't think that's it.......does anyone have any idea what the hell is wrong with this freaking bike.......it's driving me crazy???????????????

I have pictures of all the stuff now so let me know if you need some of any item. I also have a stock steering stem for sale also....50 bucks

They are not Yamaha now that you ask i can't even think what they say...figures....i will get a pic to you tonight....what is your e-mail?

Ok, I have some stock stuff up for grabs....I have 2 race cut front fenders...both are all blue...yamaha stock blue, one has no decals and is in excellent condition, normal small scratches but nothing major, the second made is through a roll over with a couple rough scratches but it'll work....pretty shotty around the left front screw hole but it would be good for someone who plans on beating up the front fender or just doesn't care what it looks like $60 bucks plus shipping for both fenders. Also I have the following items: All parts are off an 02 Banshee. I bought the bike last Christmas and It only had 20 hrs on it. I have ridden it in the dunes 4 times since then and one trip to Mexico so all these parts are in like new condition. 1) Stock carbs w/ toomey needle and clip, and 310 main jets, also will include various other main jets w/carbs. Includes cable but it needs to be replaced or re-crimped at the throttle end will also include toomey foam air filter never even used, still in plastic just the outer foam element. $100 2) Stock intake manifold w/ tube and clamps- $20 3) Stock intake boots w/ clamps no cracks or tears- $10 4) Stock gas tank shroud w/decals looks great nothing wrong with it stock yamaha blue color- $20 5) 3 neoprene shock covers fit tightly only used one season in the dunes blue with white lettering-$30 for all three 7) 2 stock rear chain guides both are white in good shape- $15 for both 8) One red Cascade forward chain slider used only 2 times barely even worn- $20 All prices are WITHOUT shipping included. Make me some offers on this stuff I replaced all this stuff with after market parts so it's of no use to me anymore. I can e-mail pics to you so if your interested e-mail me with your e-mail address.

I just wanted to say who cares about the thing making good light at idle???? If your worried about idle then you shouldn't own a Banshee.....run that baby wide open and you'll have all the light you need my man!!!!! Also trail tech makes a kit to convert your stator to dc power and use it like an alternator to charge the battery for there hid lights.....those light are WAY bright...i put a set of the mr16's on my wifes 400ex.....she rides in the middle of our group and lights all the way to the front.....way bright light

i got the perfect stuff....lots and lots and lots of ELBOW grease....that'll keep em looking nice and new.....my advice to you is go with a different color.....we buy riding boots to keep your feet and legs and ankles from getting jacked up during riding....not to look nice.... word of advice....buy some dark color boots and then buy some cool riding pants and a cool jersey.....the boots are going to get beat to shit man over time.....

Cool.....did you go with some people from HQ a couple weeks ago? My buddy was out there with an HQ guy.....he just got his bike ported and was getting used to it. he was telling me about the guys bike....4mil haulers.....can't remember his first name....my buddies name is Elisha....sound familiar....? Thanks for the advice on the gearing i'll give it a wirl...

12/43..... how's that workin out for ya????? I see you have the rockets on there......what else do you have done to it.....how does it ride....

Ok....well i'm going to try both then.....i'm going to take a 13/40 setup......and i'll also take a 41,42 rear with me as well as a 14 front.....If at first i don't succeed i'll try, try again.....it may take a couple of times but the time and effort will be worth it......I see you're in San Diego....where do you ride the most???

Yeah my buddy rides 13/43 and it's a wheelie machine....well with me on it it is but he's like 230 so it's good for his size......i just want to pull hard like you said....all the way up the hill in 4th ready to shift into 5th at the top if i had more room to run......but the biggest thing is dunability.....gotta have that 3rd gear low end punch to get up out of those bowls and over those 3 foot walls......gotta be able to get the fron end up.....can't loose that with the +4????

On the engine case where the clutch cable connects there is an arrow stamped into the case....where is the clutch lever pointing when the clutch is released.....what about when you fully engage the clutch......let us know???

13/42????? I thought that going up in the rear took away top end????? This is just me but i thought using that calculator that the 40 really improved the top end with the 13 front .....i'm only running the ITP sand Stars in the rear so i'm not going to bogg down like a hauler would bogg this bike down......so anyhow my thought was to go down one in the rear???? Unless someone convinces me otherwise???? Somebody tell me i'm way out in left field???? :shrug:

there isn't enough hill to get into 6th gear.....well i should say i don't have enough motor to pull that kind of speed.....i want to pull hard but not loose the low end.....best of both worlds bro...??? got any suggestions???