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knelson

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Everything posted by knelson

  1. the bowl with the brass jet in the bottom goes on the carb with the plunger (left). just fyi you prob already know
  2. I've used plastic igloo coolers to ship engines, never had any issues. Even sent a heavy 450r engine round trip coast to coast and no problems.
  3. If your crank is good put some new bearings on it, new seals, gaskets, and pressure check it after it's assembled. If your got a little dough left timing plate, cut your head or pro design, maybe some good porting. A good port job on a stock stroke will make way better power than a 4mil, I don't think you are going to want to spend what it takes to build a 4mil the correct way like no spacers,head w/custom domes, pistons, crank, porting,the list can go on and on and that's why most of us are here cause it's like crack....that's what I been hearin'...
  4. What's the cost if I pay cash and come pick up?
  5. I'll take , I will be in Kalamazoo this sunday. that's if eldreder doesn't want it
  6. It's really about pricing cause any reputable shop offering 2 stroke boring/honing/chamfering services can do the job. I'd love to hear of cheaper prices cause turn around has always been 7-10 days for me and I'm not sure how much customer service is required in punching out some holes to fit some pistons
  7. 85 +tax a hole at dealer here. cheapest way I have found is just to send cylinders to FAST and have him fit some pistons, its 45 a hole and he sells pistons for around 90
  8. ah hell naw....signed and text'd some buddies
  9. Does capping them off effect the idle in any?
  10. No performance added, however It will wear the rubber boots from vibration (weight) and they will eventually crack at the base causing a air leak, burning up your engine. ask me how I know.....On the flip side, Do you want to buy a white bros boost bottle, I got one cheap
  11. the only direction fuel air goes is into the engine, if its being blown back out the carbs it means your reeds arent sealing good.FYI, at mid-high RPM's your reeds don't have time to close
  12. knelson

    33 pwks

    http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=143572&view=findpost&p=1238714&hl=&fromsearch=1
  13. pull the carbs off, flip them upside down, remove four phillips screws,remove carb bowl and clean inside
  14. lighten,gearing,timing,pipes
  15. knelson

    craigslist add

    I'll take 1 of the 3 heaters
  16. No boots,pipes are gone, Still have the carbs will do 200$ plus your stock carbs.
  17. Plastics sold, pipes are pending payment, and carbs still up for grabs
  18. Still for sale, will do 250$ for carbs or 200 and your stockers. 150 for the pipes. I also have a full set of really nice red/black plastics with black seat for200$ prices are shipped
  19. All pms answered, these parts are in boxes ready for shipment to a new home.
  20. All pm's replied to, as of now still for sale. heres pipe pics, some oven cleaner,0000steel wool, polish and some elbow grease they would clean up better....I just ain't doin it., i'd paint'em black. pipes are boxed up ready for shipment.
  21. Came on engine I bought, goin stock setup. plug on left carb has been removed and welded flat to clear clutch arm. filters are 14in long 300shipped or 250 and your stock carbs Also a pair of decent fmf fattys 200shipped trying to upload pics, either to large and upload sites are locking up my crappy computer..stay tuned
  22. mine gives me a boner. if all you have is a small area and you have to be on the brakes, you may be scared of the powerband/wrecking into something. Get out on the dunes or some long fire roads and ride with some others that have fast bikes/ banshees and you will soon find you'll be wanting more power.... did you really just ask a bunch of power junkies if they are scared of power?
  23. That's really what it all about and maybe you can use the plastics if all the bolts break/ strip and it turns out to be crap....on a lt50 (a bonus the lt50 rides awsome wheelies)
  24. Ok,I'll play devil's advocate...I have seen cheap 50cc scooters last forever, it's tru crap will rattle off and it's a crapshot on what cause it really depends on the assembler I believe. I say buy it, break it down and rebuild it w/ locktite and a torque wrench. Maybe gusset the frame if it's questionable...
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