dawarriorman

Oh and Jim, since you already replied, what about the reed stopper? (I edited and added that in there after you started replying) Cut it, or remove it, or does it not really interfere with anything?

I guess I should I add: Look at what you typed after you post, and if it changed something, edit and let us know what it changed it to. Otherwise we don't know what you typed.

Well since I doubt thats going to happen, lets use this thread to figure it all out. I'll start out. f u c k = freak damn shit bitch f a g = bastard bundle of sticks ass Ok, theres my addition

Dude, this post was started 2 freakING YEARS AGO. STOP BRINGING UP OLD POSTS.

Just wondering what the piston - cylinder bore clearance is supposed to be. Can't find my manual. I havne't finished pulling the jugs off yet, but from the looks of it with the head off, I've got probably right at or just under .010 in of clearance. Im sure its too much, but Im just curious how far off it is. Oh, and another thought. I was looking down the boost port, and noticed that the reed stopper seems to block it partially. What happens if you run with out one? Or would it be better to just notch it some.

100LL is 99.5 motor octane. http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/f...ecsandtest.shtm

If you don't need to spacers for the carbs to clear, then why do you want them? An no, porting V-force reed valves would do nothing.

Well it depends on the type of porting you're looking at. If you're looking at more of a top end port or drag port, then the exhaust port will be raised, which will lower your compression. If you're getting a woods or mx port, then the exhaust port more than likely won't be raised, so your compression won't be changed. If your running AV gas you can switch to +7 now, and you'll be fine. Im pretty sure the 100 AV gas is 100 motor octane. Motor octane numbers are generally lower than your traditional r+m/2 numbers that are used at the pumps. So your 100 motor octane would be higher if it was rated like pump gas. 17cc domes are going to be more compression than you'll probably want at sea level.

Well I switched 2 years ago, and haven't had the least problem with my clutch yet. I wouldn't worry about switching.

ITS A SCAM. ITS A SCAM. ITS A SCAM. They tell you that stuff you make you feel better. So what if he's willing to use it, he's in another country, what are you going to do, call the cops? Oh right, he's in another country. Ive seen tons of these, its a classic scam.

Oh yeah, and how does he know it has 110 miles? Ive seen hour meters on quads, but not odometers.

Buy a new radiator. All of those quick fixes aren't permanent, and possibly bad for your cooling system. Those radiator leak sealers that you see at the store have tiny pieces of aluminum in them that seal the leak. Problem is they can clog up the radiator to some degree, and they also tear up the seals. You don't want JB weld either. The best thing to do for a temporary fix is to solder the leak. Even that isn't permanent though. Just get a new one, and save yourself future hassel.

Thats a scam, don't even bother with him. Why would he spend all that money to take it with him from canada overseas, only then to realize the taxes would be too much? And then pay the shipping again to get it back to canada. Classic scam. If it sounds to good to be true, it is.

Id say you're screwed then (he owns it), but I do like the idea someone else had. Get a big group together, and then ask him. A lot harder to decline a couple hundred bucks, especially if you make it seem like all of you will be coming back.

Yeah, but what would he be driving? Might want to make sure you know what your up against before that kind of challenge.

Hell, our drag strip lets anything run, even mopeds (although they take about 30 seconds). But with quads and bikes you have to have pants, a leather jacket, boots, gloves, and a helmet. I don't get how a quad is more dangerous than a bike either. Maybe he's thinking about the tires and the fact they usually aren't balanced or made for that kind of speed. Although I've seen a guy here run 11 seconds at 110 in the 1/4 on stock rear tires, so who knows.

Ive had one for a couple years now, and its never felt tight. At least I don't notice it.

Trust me, without a cutting torch you aren't cutting that chain. Bolt cutters won't even put a dent in it, and grinders take all day. Hacksaws .... no. But yeah I agree, nothing is going to stop a thief that wants something. Best you can do is make it look like a pain in the ass, and not worth his time.

Only the fuel is directly injected into the chamber. The oil is injected, but it has to come through the reed valves so the bottom end gets lubricated.

I have a friend with an RM 125 that has run Amsoil for years now. He mixes at 80:1 instead of 100:1, but his machine has held up fine. Well, it has been through several rebuilds, but from other causes (broken reeds, cracked intake boots, so on). Im sure its good oil, and would have no problems using it, but I've been using Golden Spectro for a while now, and just don't feel like changing.

I worked at a boat shop up until a couple months ago, and learned alot about the direct injection 2 strokes. Im almost positive that somebody has snowmobiles with DI 2 strokes (I want to say Arctic Cat, but im not sure). I agree that they should do it, and I think it would have great success. Not sure if everyone knows about these, but basically its a regular 2 stroke, only the gas doesn't go through the reed valve, it is instead injected directly into the cylinder. And by doing this, they can wait until the piston covers up the exhaust port, and then inject the fuel. Which gives you your fuel efficiency. Only the air and oil come through the reed valves. The only potential problem is that normally the oil is in the gas, which thins the oil so it gets to all the internal surfaces easily. With DI, it isn't, which gave Mercury problems at first (Optimaxs are the devil). Yamaha came up with some ring design that supposedly stopped that, but with bikes and the reeds going into the cylinder instead of the bottom of the crank, I don't think it would be as much of a problem. If I had the money Id love to try and turn a banshee into a DI motor, although it would take a lot of work.

Only $30 for the core? What happened to Direct drives website by the way? I thought it was www.directdrivecnc.com but its only coming up to one of those ad pages now.

It could be flooded, although it could be spark or weak compression too. If your floats are sticking or not adjusted right, it could let gas just leak down into the crank. Mine has done that before, and when theres a puddle in the crank, I can't kick it over. Shut off your gas when you get done, and see if that fixes it. If it does, clean your carbs out and readjust the floats.

Magnesium/boron alloy, it won't burn like your thinking.