sg30721

I am looking to buy a new Banshee frame, I have a 1996 Banshee and my frame has had it from years of MX racing... According to all the Yamaha parts websites online, the mid 90s - 2000 frames are around $700 and the 2004-2005 frames are $470... is there any dif? I dont care if the color is dif. I just want to make sure all my parts will bolt on. Thanks

I have a Motion Pro Twist throttle kit on my Banshee.... the kit came with the carb tops and idle screws. The end of the cable (handlebar end) has a smaller cable end than the stock cable... does anybody know of any thumb throttle unit from any other atv that this cable will fit into? The cable end is too small for the stock Banshee unit Thanks

I've got that same Dynoport Pipe on my Banshee... I live in GA so it should be about the same as AL. My banshee also has pro flow filter, cool head, and FMF RAM Valve... Stock Carbs... I am running 270 main jets and the needle clip on the 2nd groove (counting from the needle point side). It runs great for me.. no bogs

Thanks for the tip dlnoss, I used a bread tie to clean the pilot and took the thumb throttle and TORS system off... replaced them with my old Motion Pro twist throttle kit I used years ago... it has new carb tops and all... it runs great now... Problem must be in the TORS system, I'll just keep my twist throttle on for now. Wonder if there is any thumb throttle from another ATV that will fit the cable from the Motion Pro kit...

Ok.. I just decided to pull the old Motion Pro twist throttle kit out again... it has new carb tops and all... I put the twist back on along with new carb tops and it runs great again.. Guess the problem is in the TORS Thanks

A few years ago I put a twist throttle on my Banshee and recently I took it off... the twist throttle kit did away with the stock carb tops so I had to add the idle adjustment screw mod to the side of the carb.. now I have the thumb throttle back on... so I had to put the stock carb tops back on... should I be using the idle adjustment screws on the side of the carbs now or the adjustment on the stock carb tops to control my idle? Thanks

If I had the grooved ones still I would take a pic of them and post but I got new Turf Tamers put on a motorcycle shop a few months ago and they didnt get me old tires back. I didnt get the grooved tires this time only because I needed them fast and it takes a little longer time to get the grooved tires. I will look through all my past pictures and see if any show the tire pattern...

OK... I turned the switch off and kicked about 10 times... then turned on and it fired up *big accomplishment since it hasnt been cranked in 4 yrs* It would not idle by itself, I had to hold the throtle open a little... It will be hard to sync the carbs since I have a 2 into 1 pipe... Does anybody know a general place to start, I still have the bulky carb tops. I do have idle screws on my stock carbs because I used to have a twist throttle that did not use the stock carb tops. Should I just turn the idle screws on the carb tops all the way in and just use the idle screws that were installed on the sides of my carbs?? I will test it more tomorrow, its 3:30AM and I'm sure my neighbors did not like me cranking it this late... lol If it helps... I have Dynoport 2 / 1 pipe Coolhead with 19cc domes (I think, its been a long time since I had it apart) FMF Ram Valve Pro Flow Filter

How much gas should I pour into the cylinder through the spark plug holes? Thanks This thing makes me mad... wish it was as reliable as my 250 R.. thats why it has been sitting so long... I just use my Honda 250 R now because its so much easier and cheaper to maintain.

I have turf tamers on the back of my Banshee and 250R... they are the best tires you can buy in my opinion and are fairly cheap. I raced alot of Motorcross Nationals over a 5 year period on one set and they still had tread left. Mine were cut... I bought them from NACS, I just checked their website for you and they still charge $10 per tire for custom "Grooving"

I did take both carbs apart and clean them, maybe the pilots are clogged. If the pilots were clogged, would it still be able to crank if I held the throttle open? The reason I dont think any fuel is making it to the engine is because when I pulled the new plugs out of the engine they still looked new... not wet at all.

My Banshee has been sitting for 4 years... I cleaned the carbs / airfilter/ gas tank / and put new plugs in... I am getting a spark but will not crank. I can kick the crap out of the engine and nothing happens. I pulled the spark plugs out to check the spark and they were dry as a bone. I wonder if they are getting any gas? When I pull the fuel line off the carb the gas runs out so I know the gas is making it to the carb. When I pull the airfilter off an look into the carbs they look dry also... is it possible the carbs are still clogged somewhere? Thanks for the info...

I have that dynoport pipe and mine fits together great... U said the prev. owner cut something off? wonder why he did that... the pipe and silencer are made to fit together. One side has a bigger diameter lip and it slides over the other. All I use is a little Permatex Ultra Copper high temp. sealent like U get at auto parts store... I've never had any trouble. Did he cut section off of Pipe or Silencer? If its the silencer, you may have to invest in a new one so it will fit properly.

Are there any places that make hiem joints that fit Laeger A Arms as a direct replacemnt for the ball joints? Is there a universal size most of the arms use? I know alot of A arm kits out there come with hiem joints now instead of ball joints.

Does it need to be the shiny stock plastic to get good results or does the dull Maier aftermarket plastic work well also? I want to keep my graphics kit on my stockers but I would like to get the Maier plastic painted... its in good shape just dull in color like all the old Maier (black)

I have a spare set of Honda 250 R front shocks at home which have more travel than Banshee and was wondering if there is a way to modify them to fit on a Banshee? I have never held them up to the Banshee before but I believe the top bracket is much thinner on the 250R. I have +2 A arms so this might help them fit. When I get home from work I will check the clearance to see if it looks possible.

I installed one of those modified shift stars a few years ago... it smoothed the shifting a good bit but still under full throttle the trans would hang up. U might try installing one of those modified shift stars sometime. They are fairly cheap. From what I can remember, a usual shift star is alot more pointed than the modified unit.

Does anybody have the Hydrolic clutch kit? My clutch is so hard to pull in compared to my Honda... Just thinking the hydrolic unit I have seen in the mags. will make a big improvement?

Hey I got the cases powder coated RED to match my RED Lonstar frame on my 250 R... after 4 years of racing they still look great... nothing has chipped or anything. Worst thing is there is a few scuff marks on one side where my boot scrubs. The cases on my Banshee are not powercoated but I would recomend doing it...maybe in a bright color like red. It really makes the bike stand out from the rest. I get comments at almost every race about my powdercoated cases. I'm really surprised more ppl dont get this done...

I have Works "Stadium Series" on my 250R and they are great... they are Works version of the Zero Preload shocks... on my Banshee I had PEP Limited Mass which were real popular a few years ago. I personally like the Works Stadium Series because they make the ATV sit real low because of Zero Preload which helps in the curves and they stretch out when U jump

I have Leager +2 A arms .... would the arms still need to be modified as mentioned here or do you think they would fit easily?

Its time to replace my filter and I have the Pro Design setup... I want to know if any other filters fit besides the UNI that comes with it... Thanks

Ok... I retapped it today.... I just went one size higher and did put a heli coil in it... seems to be holding good for now.. if it strips again I'll buy a heli coil to use Thanks to all for the ideas

what nerfs do you use for this setup?

I havent ever installed a heli coil during all my years of riding.... you were saying to add threadlock to the coil? Are you talking about putting the threadlock on the coil before screwing it in to the new tapped hole or do I put the threadlock on the bolt going into the new heli coil? Thanks for the help