Forcefed

Warning to all HQ members - this guys previous screen-name was BLZNOKIE ! Proceed with EXTREME caution as he has a VERY POOR reputation !

Are you f`ing kidding me ? The same pipes project03 was waiting for for nearly a FULL YEAR ! Warning to all HQ members - this guys previous screen-name was BLZNOKIE ! Proceed with EXTREME caution as he has a VERY POOR reputation !

Remember this guy ??!! Warning to all HQ members - this guys new screen-name is Okie 450 Proceed with EXTREME caution as he has a VERY POOR reputation ! & is still up to the same games !

Warning to all HQ members - this guys previous screen-name was BLZNOKIE ! Proceed with EXTREME caution as he has a VERY POOR reputation !

Warning to all HQ members - this guys previous screen-name was BLZNOKIE ! Proceed with EXTREME caution as he has a VERY POOR reputation !

Sup Nyuk - been awhile brother ! Go on & delete this crooks stuff - hell ban him while your at it. He`s bouncing from one site to another taking peoples money without sending anything out. Been dealing with him on PS for alomost 2 months now over a set of carbs & Corey has yet too receive his pipes. Not too mention the poor guy that was promised the Raptor he bought off him had no liens against it ... even though it did !

Yup, your good .... just a little overflow from riding her hard. ... if you come out in the morning and there is a puddle, then a float adj, or needle/seat cleaning is in order.

Threw this out for a valid reference. .. ... .. Stock stroke. 65 x 54 = 358cc 68 x 54 = 392cc 72 x 54 = 439cc ------------------ +4mm Stroke 65 x 58 = 384cc 68 x 58 = 421cc 72 x 58 = 472cc ------------------ +7mm Stroke 65 x 61 = 404cc 68 x 61 = 443cc 72 x 61 = 496cc ------------------ +10mm Stroke 65 x 64 = 424cc 68 x 64 = 464cc 72 x 64 = 521cc Rod length does not change engine size.

Did you hold the throttle all the way open while kicking ?

O.K. enough of the stripping the pick-up bolts off ! lol Next time the gap needs to be adjusted just rotate the flywheel so the timing tab is NOT under the pick-up. Take the palm of your hand - small rubber mallet - forhead - whatever, and tap (read: don`t smack the shit out of it).... You are just looking to slightly bend the tab IT DOESN~T TAKE MUCH EFFORT . similiar to adjusting the gap down on a spark plug. Now it will probably be a little close, so as you rotate the flywheel tab back underneath the pick-up, go slowly & adjust out as needed. Has worked for me for years & NO MORE BROKEN BOLTS :biggrin: whattathink ?

Did the petcock have to be changed to reserve when they brought it back ? Could be something as simple as running it out of fuel during their beach racing spree & not knowing any better .... typically one carb will run dry just a little faster than the other ...

Yup, what they said - the cover has to be on and the coller is loose on the shaft. One thing that IS easy to get messed up is the straight part of the spring that locks into the shaft --- it HAS to be at the 12:00 position, not 6.

Wonder what his piston -> deck height is ? Right on with the assy lube ... i`ve checked comp right after assembly, and one would be amazed at the comp gain by having a bunch of oil in there.

2mm crank ? lol - who makes those ? Turn the engine over by hand ? ummm ....

absolutely interchangeable.

If you get the programming kit, then the Dyna cdi will work as a launch limiter- just type in the rpm & its set ... it stutters the ignition through the Parking Brake limiting wire that is factory on all yamaha atvs ... but if you do decide to get the seperate launch limiter that you can adjust with a dial - make sure it is the DRL300-CDI or it wont work with a banshee.

No problem ... glad to help. For peace of mind, when you get your new domes, check the i.d. and the step. Nothing like assembly with confidence.

Since you have already made some WOT runs and haven`t melted it, then right there is your baseline....you can listen to a million people, but I only trust my plugs. There are sooooo many more viariables to concider other than just what you can just bolt onto the bike that influences -proper- carberation. Ever heard anyone ask for jetting or timing help based on the weight of the rider ? lol, yup - even the load the engine is placed under during specific riding conditions factor in ! :wink:

First, yes, the jets should be the same in both carbs unless something drastic to alter the airflow is different from one side to the other. Well, i don`t think the amount of air that the airbox can or can`t flow will determine the RPM limit. Things like tuned length of the pipe you are running - Port timing - C/R - Timing - and on and on will have a MUCH greater effect on the limit at which a banshee engine will rev. Actually, if you think about it, the transfer ports to especially the duration & area of the port face is the smallest point within the whole pump - and the tightest bottleneck. Without the ability to introduce a continuously fresh charge (via the transfers) into the cylinder, rpm`s will climb and then plateau. Provided the pipe is doing its job as well. True, the amount of air the engine is initially allowed to consume with the lid on could possibly limit rpm, and by removing the lid add a few more rpm`s to the equation, but will this keep it from revving to the moon ? No. If we however did think along those lines, then with out the lid their would still be an "RPM/Air governer" by means of the stock carbs. Put bigger carbs on and you still have a govenor - intake/transfer/exhaust timing.... raise the exhaust to 205* and you won`t be able to rev to the moon because not all pipes can operate properly at that RPM... see how it takes changes all the way across the board to net an effective RPM increase ? (over simplified of course)

Yeah thats true, I shouldn`t have been so arbitrary ... you can be more or less than .030-.040 - but that is a general rule of thumb starting point. Altering your squish more or less WILL require timing and jetting changes to achieve desired results. That is one of the reasons i would never tell someone to run their timing high unless I know ALL the variables within the confines of the head & jug. :wink: 91Banshee - something else to look into .. what series are the pistons you are using? 513 - 795 ? Reason I ask is because the angle that the crown of the piston is cut at and the angle of the squish band should be near parallel, and since both series of piston utilize different crown angles, you may need even more machine work. Did you shave your head allready knowing your piston to deck height ?

You can run it like that, but you really should not... here`s why. It is VERY important to maintain the proper squish between the piton and the head. If the inside diameter of the dome is smaller than the outside diameter of the piston, then the result is that the difference between the 2 will net a MUCH tighter squish than the rest of the area in the squish band. This could be bad. Lets say your 68mm pistons come to "zero deck" at TDC, which means perfectly flush with the top of the cylinder. And if the i.d. of the dome is say 65mm ... well, you get the picture .. ZERO squish. Detonations problems will plague you from day 1. You would have to run very rich with like no timing to keep things from getting messy. What you want to do is verify the piston to deck height at TDC. Yes, thousandths of an inch are critical. They may be in the hole .010, or out of the cylinder .005 ... whatever it may be ... BE SURE to be accurate. Once you have this number, you now know how deep to cut the "step" in the head, to achieve the proper squish clearance. Typically you want to be right around .035. No less than .030 and no more than .040. Imagine if your 68mm pistons come out of the hole by .005 while running a dome with ANY LESS than 68mm dome i.d. ! BANG! BANG! BANG! BANG! Set your tolerances up properly and you can assure happy, healthy, high performance fun much longer than leaving these items to fate. :thumbsup:

Yup, it is the stock cover that is modified for all lock-up units... and, yup, you can get the clutch plates out through that hole.

.100 over isn`t a "ticking time bomb" lol ... and the oem service manual states .0024-.0026, however, it would be WISER to finish hone to the piston manufacturers recomendations as they know how much their product will swell. Stock cast pistons do not act like forged wiseco units ... they want .003.