momo20

let us know what you came up with...good luck in your races

i see bad things happening with that.. go over speed bumps to fast and next thing you know your bike is all sticky...ewww....no thanks...nice ideal though

on my blaster i pop the clutch really good and landed on my ass ....too bad i did not have a cam close by....the grap bar in the back saved my ass from the bike landing on me..instead it just draged me for like 10 feet...lol....good times

thank you very much...that cleared up any questions that i had....so i am gonna stay standard or normal heat range....thanks a lot SANDSTAR....your the man

you should post some pics of what you got, cause i have no clue as to what you are talking bout...get some from the site...or something like that

from what the manual says this.... following cylinder servicing (boring, honing, new pistons, new rings etc.), the engine should be broken in as if it were new. The performance and service life of the engine depends greatly on a careful and sensible break in. *NOTE* Refer to chaper 3 for further infromation on spark plug reading and to chapter 8 for carburetor jet changes. 1. Drain all existing fuel from the tank. Then prepare a fresh break- in fuel/oil mixture of 16:1. Pour this fuel mixture into the fuel tank..... TO ME THIS SEEMS KINDA RICH.. 2. Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Set the idle speed as described in chapter 3. 3. after the engine has sufficiently warmed up, ride the vehicle for 5-8 minutes as a moderate speed in the lower gears. Then stop the engine and remove the spark plugs. Both spark plugs should show a rich engine operating condition. 4. Reinstall the spark plugs and allow the engine to cool 5. Repeat step 3 for 5 minutes then shift briefly to higher gears while checking throttle response. Then stop the engine and remove the spark plugs. The sparl plugs should not show a lean or hot condition. 6. reinstall the spark plugs and allow the engine to cool. 7. Start the engine and ride the vehicle for 5 minutes. Full throttle may be used at higher gears but avoid prolonged steady running at one speed. Then stop the engine and remove the spark plugs. The spark plugs should not show a lean condition. 8. drain the left over break- in fuel/oil mixture from the fuel tank and refill with the mixture in chapter 3. 9. Start the enigne and allow it to warm up. Run the vehicle through its operating range in all gears. Then stop the engine and remove the sparl plugs. The electrodes should be dry and clean and the color of the insulation should be light to medium tan. If the insulation is white (indicating to lean fuel/air mixture) or if it is dark and oily ( indicating a too rich fuel/air mixture ratio), correct the condtion with a main jet change; both conditions produce excessive engine heat and can lead to damage to the rings, pistons and cylinders before the have had a chance to seat in. 10. reinstall the spark plugs and ride the vehicle for 10-15 minutes, avoiding full throttle operation. After this period, enigne break-in has been completed... CREDITS: CLYMER M486-3 YAMAHA BANSHEE 1987-2002 SERVICE-REPAIR-MAINTENANCE COPYRIGHT 2002 PRIMEDIA BUSINESS MAGAZINES AND MEDIA INC. INFO TAKEN FROM PAGE 146 CHAPTER 5 that all seems knida extensive for a break-in ...maybe that is me....i have heard from a few people to do it this way as clymer states and i have also heard to break it in as though you stole it....so which would be better???

even though i did i port and polish on the jugs, stoker crank with stoker pistons...what would be the case in changing the plugs colder or hotter

anyone know what would be best

why would they not let him run it????

lol,sounds like a faiiry tale.....lol

i want to def see this....you may want to put a uni foam filter on there ....with some heavy filter lube, and some of the bel ray grease, that way you wont get water any where you do want to ...also the panty hose is not such a bad ideal

now that i have a stoker engine is it better to stay at the normal plugs or go colder or hotter plug....thanks

pour some of yhr premix into the jugs? how much.... i am gonna get a couple sets of plugs...prob 50 bucks worth so that way i will have em

i was gonna use that yamalube R....

i have the CLYMER manual...my rebuild is 100% as of now...but i have a question bout the break in ...the manual says to mix up a fuel/oil mixture ratio of 16:1..then ride the bike for 5-8 minutes at a moderate speed in lower gears...then there is a comination of starting and stop and so on, so on....but is 16:1 kinda rich?? and what would be a good fuel/oil mixture to go with when the bike is broken in???

i re jetted my carbs to 270, but i go to looking at other stuff on the carbs and the carb with the choke, how can i fix it to where it will stay in out when i pull it...i took it apart and cleaned it, i did notice a little clip there....i remeber someone saying the took a drimile and grined some of the brass...would that help...i really dont want to pay 37.00 bucks for a new choke if there is an easy fix

you have to ask for em...the make it to where you dont have to use a head gasket....pretty nifty if i dont say my slef....and top quality...and yes i have the stoker crank with stoker pistons

i just rebuilt my whole engine...well i still have stock carbs , but i did the porting on the cylinders, still have the stock reeds, i do have a cool head and tommey t-5 pipes,and some dlnoss STROKER 21cc domes i also live in pueblo colorado where our elevation is like 4800 feeti think...its close to that....i just dont know what to jet my shee at

that is funny you have the whole internet at your finger tips, yet you choose to set there waiting for an answer.lol

then i cant sleep at night, thinking why in the hell i built this bike, the way that i did...and i still have the bug to mod the shit out of it even more than it sits now

then you add in all the little parts i had to get from yamaha and the fluids and, its comes close to 2 grand

well +4mm stoker kit, stoker pistons/crank stage three port and polish cool heads tommey t-5 pipes +4 swing arm stoker domes 21mm re did all of the wiring on the bike....so the 87' shines like its brand new uni air filer but much more is on the way...new suspension to match the new horsepower and some new tag handle bars...notting wrong with mine..just a better bar i feel. and fuel injection.....

after a few months rebuild( just working on it in my free time) the shee will come home tonight....after bout 2000.00 dallors....she is finally done...expect some pics of one clean 87 shee...looks new:=)

i have a stoker kit going into my shee...i need to know if the printed side on the base gasket goes up or down...i would assume the printed side goes up....i could be wrong

when i had bought the bike all of the gears/cluth/ flywheel and such had been reaplced with new yamaha parts...so the tranny is new...i just dont know what type of fluid to run in here