chevyboy51

are you joking The only thing thats gona run with an R is a shee

grease works good but i didn't worry about it on mine because whan I was done I ran a tap through them all it was alot more work but it went together alot easyer

.25" PRM or armadillo there indestructable. I had a DG on my old quad and ripped it off all the time not very tough.

pair of lower A-arms on ebay good ball joints cheap http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

anybody ever hear of speed spot. my cyls are engraved with the name and 2/90. I can't find them and don't know anything about the porting i would like to know what kind of work they did.

i've seen 4" plates advertised before they do make them can't rember where though

found this on here awhile back Here's what you do... You go to the hardware store {Sears, Ace etc.} and buy... 1- .25" steel ball bearing 1- M6x40 allen head screw {I'll give instructions on how to find the right one later} 1- #8 spring 1- #2 spring and 1- #86 spring A- Take the kicker off the bike and clamp it in the vice. B- Remove the kicker lever. If the screw is stripped, drill a 3/16 hole into the OTHER end of the screw not into the head of the screw. You should be able to use a screw driver or a chisel and work the screw loose now. C- Be careful to save the stock spring that is behind the ball. {if it's still there} D- Use a Dremel tool to open up the hole in the post big enough to fit the .25" ball into it. DO NOT use force to fit the ball into the hole, you'll NEVER get it out. E- smear some grease into the hole and then put in the original spring {or one of the springs listed above. You will need to cut it down if you use one of the hardware store springs} F- smear more grease onto the post that the lever slips on to. G- Take the cone shaped spring and cut it in half and put it on top of the post with the small end facing up. Make sure the spring isn't so wide that it is wider than the post. If it is, cut it down some more or bend in the part that sticks out. H- Slide the kick lever onto the post and screw in the allen screw to hold it on. ******** Here's where you need to know how to get the right allen screw. *********** When you go to the hardware store, take the kicker with you. You want to buy an allen screw that has a shank {the unthreaded part} that is long enough so that NO threads are in the groove area of the post. To find this out, thread in the screw into the kick lever all the way. Then look into the hole in the bottom of the lever and see if there are any threads visible in the hole. If not, then you have the right one. I- After the kicker is completely assembled, make sure it rotates smoothly. Then cut off the rest of the allen bolt that's sticking out and re-install the kicker. It should last a lifetime. Some guys will re-install an O ring.

i run cars there all the time i ran the quad once but really needed a wheelie bar and taller gearing. they run quads friday nights 1/4 mile bracket race.

i live over in huntington Mills i ride from Moqanoqua to Wilkes barre quite a bit. my advice would be get a toughest tire you can find i'm lookin at gettin a set of kevlar belted bandits i have them on the front and like them. i really like super swampers i run them on my 4 stroke and there indestrutable and have good traction but 22s are bit tall for me on the shee. Stay away from holeshots, turftammers and tires like them they give decent traction but don't hold up well in coal.

the first time i pulled mine I would tighten the puller with the air-gun then beat on the puller with a hammer and kept repeating that quit a few times I eventally got it off but had to hit it so hard so many times I bent the hell out of my puller

what is the rz350 6th gear mod is it just changeing 6th gears out with ones from an rz is there anything else involved? what is the ratio difference. thanks

stock carbs are 26s

I liked the swampers I had on my 250 on the shee chains worked great they went like a bastard but you couldn't steer my port job is very twichy though

to disable it all you have to do is unplug the box but I would strip it and change the carb tops it makes jeting a hell lot easier without it in the way

I cut the foam seal off my stock filter plate put rtv on it and drilled and screwed it to the box. worked great not more leaking past the filter and alot cheaper than a prodesign plate.

I brazed the mounts when they cracked on my fmfs its been workin for 3 years

mattb348 & mattw204 have you looked at the name at the top of the page it says banshee hq if think banshees suck so much why don't you sell yours to some one who knows what to do with it. find a dirt bike forum and go each other off there about how fast you think 500s are. If you want to make your bashees fast ask some real questions there are lots of very knowledgeable guys here that might still help make you make you machines fly. well thats the end of my little rant.

want a 4 bolt sprocket hub so I can run a 38 tooth rear will trade my 6 bolt

make an offer

problem is I seem to keep blowing them. i know the head is flat. The last one went about 4 hours it was a no name that came with my pistons(should have known better) the one before went for about 2 months that was a cosmetic. I heard some people say that a stock is best what do you guys think.

leave it stock I have one with the same set up run great that way they are rich from the factory

do a compresion test sounds wore out

i like swamper TSLs or chains are always good

The reason you lost so much is you were already way lean with having pipes so your cyls are running hot now you have it more compression so that heat is making you detonate resulting in lost power. I would take the needle up one clip and start with a pair of 260 mains and go from there. also post how much your head was milled and if the macine is ported you may need to run some better fuel someone on here will be able to tell you what octane to run with that info. hope this helps