dajogejr

They were Bead to Bead, they WERE NOT triple buff....

It's part of my rigorous exercise routine that involves track food, beer and loading/unloading my bike solo. :thumbsup:

And that's on front tires...18X3. There's a LOT more material on the rear tires. I'd bet the difference in rear paddles is MUCH more significant. That's one of the reason us track guys walk the track, etc., and get a little miffed when we see rocks, sticks, etc.

I am pretty sure it's stock bore and stroke. I know he broke a lot of stuff to make/find better parts to offer a complete kit to handle it. Took a lot of time...but it is retarded, that's for sure!

Brad Tyson has a 104 HP YFZ turbo that would beg to differ....

All depends on how anal you are... up to 1PSI per minute is acceptable. Obviously, no leak is the goal...but you could split/seal a motor 10 X and not have it 100% perfect.

No...I never mention Dan only because I know how busy he is, and...he's very selective on what work he takes in now a days...

I always pack on the winter weight too. With nature being your beer cooler, it's easier to drink beers and insulate myself. Then...I work off the weight by pushing my bike to the starting/staging area, and lifting it/unloading it from the back of my truck. It's a rigorous routine, but it's the sacrifice I make....

Good post. I wouldn't sell the other sprockets though, you'll get pennies on the dollar for what you paid for them, plus, one area might need gearing that another doesn't. Not to mention...you smack a rock, it breaks/bends your sprocket, a spare can save the day.

Unless she's FAT and/or you're not drunk enough... :beer: :beer:

I got that same thing from two people he's known, built for and rode with for a long time in SoCal...

X2...saved me a lot of typing.

17 might be a stretch depending on your weight and tire size/type. I run 16/44 or 16/45 but that's to launch in second in 300 feet, my 10 mil also has a little more lungs than a 4. I would try 16/41 and start there. If it just blows through 1st gear, go up to a 17/42... You got a cub now, it'll run...but it won't have quite the same bottom end as a stocker done right, IMO. Dunable override was a smart choice, that'll help keep it on the pipe.

1 PSI per minute or less is acceptable. Run her...

Rudy Kurtz is semi-retired. If you know him, or know someone who knows him...he might do a buddy deal. He moved recently to be closer to his daughter I believe...and it only doing a little bit of "buddy" work right now. I've run against some buddies that have FAST motors, they rip. Both a 4 mil cub and a dune port stock cylinder. Jeff is a great guy to deal with, very, very fair pricing. I just had my Herr Jugs ported 10 mil cub out the first time a few weekends ago. With only a few hours of tuning/gearing/air pressure on a complete freshen up and port job, I've gone faster than I've ever gone both ET and MPH. I have tuning left to do, and I'm very happy so far. I also got a few more tricks up my sleeve to get my ETs down. I had my motor to him and back in 2 weeks. That's unheard of. Andy @ M&M seems like a very nice guy, but I don't know his pricing and have never personally seen his stuff run around here in MI. Same could be said for Brandon @ Wildcard. Racers are a touchy bunch...you have to be a little careful saying who smoked who. Getting a motor done by anyone is only PART of the puzzle. Final tune is on the rider. When I first got my motor back from HJR...it was in need of complete retune on my carbs. If someone with a strong running stock cylinder would've raced me...they would've beat me. Does that mean they're faster? No...it just means I needed to tune...which I did. My first few passes were mid 4 second passes (I was a consistent 4.3 last year, some 4.2s) Within a few more passes I was going 4.2s and pulled out a 4.17. Tuning and setup is the biggest thing, followed by rider ability...

I'm thinking 500 for the whole kit, bottle and everything you need. Captain, I'll have it in my hands for pictures after this weekend, it's at a buddy's house. Joe...if he passes, its yours if you want it and you're serious about it.. I just dont' see myself having time to put one on this year...

Same here. I got two pumps from Tedder, two rebuild kits. I rebuilt the one I got...but it didn't need it...I just had the kit and was more or less curious about how they worked inside.

I used my fuel pump for two years and a lot of methanol through it...and gave it to fouled out. The methanol doesn't hurt the pump...it'll corrode the crank and bearings if not purged... I can understand others wanting to use gas as the fuel enrichement to start out... But the other statements really don't hold much water. I use 20:1 for my purge, I wouldn't want to drain the second tank, put in purge fuel, etc...that's more of a hassle. My plan is to run an aluminum fuel tank and a Pingle Guzzler. One side to my fuel pump for the motor, the other side for the fuel pump for the NOS... With my fuel pump, I get more than enough fuel from the stock fuel valve and my pump...

Odd...a lot of the guys here run Alky/alky with NOS...

Nope. All cylinder heads I've used, aftermarket and stock covered both cylinders. Obviously, my Noss and Chariot have removable domes for each cylinder, but they bolt down together.... Me...if you're sure the torque is right, etc., I'd be checking the bottom of the head/dome and the deck of the cylinder for flatness. If your eyes are perfect, a straight edge works. Otherwise, a fine grit sand paper and a sanding block can tell you if it has high or low spots.

Lack of fuel...

I was thinking of women only washing their hair every month, and Two out of every 10 adults couldn't read or write. Only 6 percent of all Americans had Graduated from high school.

You can have lights but no spark, and vice versa. The lighting side and ignition side are separate.

Let me think about it and figure it out over the weekend!

You should be able to get a solid link or two out of adjustment alone, something else isn't right. They don't make half links, that would pretty much jump it off the sprockets...and get ugly.