dajogejr

It is cheaper and easier to modify your stock wheels... Is there a good reason you're so against it?? Drill two holes, and get 4 new valve stems...1/2 hour worth of work and less than 10 bucks or so....

With that frame and swinger...I'd go big. Big Bore Cubs, 7 or 10mil stroke.... It all depends on how deep your wallet and pockets run....

You dont' need to adjust jetting for compression or timing...unless you go pretty high on either.... +4 won't require a jetting change... You'll notice a little more all around. I'd get your flywheel lightened...or shaved at the same time. These mods woke mine up!

40 to 42....he's over 3000 feet...so the 20cc domes are giving him about the same as stock compression.... If you were closer to sea level, I'd say 45ish as well. At that alti....I'm surprised 330s aren't too rich...

All depends on how serious you want to drag race.... You can build a pretty darned fast dune quad which will beat most of the bikes out there.... I'm building a 4 mil cub for just that. I plan on trailing about 40% of the time, duning 20% of the time...and play drag racing with friends the rest (mostly sand strips or dune racing) I know I'll have the fast bike of my bunch...but, I also know I can go to Silver lake and they'll be a good handful of quads that'll hand it to me all day long. However...those same guys would have their hands full in a trails. +12 swingarms and 90 to 120 HP aren't very trail friendly.... Drag porting is fast, darned fast...but you normally end up with about 1800 to 2500 RPM of usable power....and a lot of it. It's like turning on a light switch with a rubber band...you just never know. I'm hoping to have about 3500 to 4000 worth of usable power....

I will 2nd that (more MI love... )... Anybody into drag racing banshees knows about GRR... Tyson has a very reputable name, and A&S out of MI builds very fast bikes, too.

Yep...once I build a similar motor, I'm goign to have VIRGIN cylinders from a 96 (no port, never bored, bike still has 115PSI and runs very good) for sale, along with the stock head and stock crank....along with my stock swingarm. I don't want to post it for sale yet...because it'll probably be the middle of march before I get to the teardown! I just hope I don't dive into this project and decide to replace this...than that...and before you know it I'm way over budget and out of loot!! Thanks again, Big Red!!!

Got me a +6 swinger, nearly new...for about 1/2 the price as I was ready to pay. Paid on Friday, Shipped Monday, arrived today at my door... Packaged great, item looks damn near new...and Kyle is quick to respond. Too bad he sold those carbs before I could've jumped on 'em...that would really compliment the 4 mil Cub I'll be building very soon! Thanks again!! Dave

Damn fine job here, big red. Building that same motor myself next month...4 mil cub, but I'm getting cut heads. Great, Great article!!

Actually, with the RS stator plate, you don't need to remove the flywheel. A 10mm open end wrench and the wooden end of a mallett will set the timing as you desire.... I'm pretty sure the pro-design you don't have to remove the flywheel either...

True dat Rocket...especially about the cubic dollars. Not to mention, you can have a fast ass bike...but, if the suspension isn't setup properly, or you flat out can't ride for a shit, what does that matter. i'm sure there's not a person on this board who hasn't been beaten by a slower bike by a better rider...PERIOD... Saying I want to have the fastest banshee to beat everyone is like saying I want to have more money than Bill Gates. It's a good dream....but hardly possible...

They pulled the cover off...if they didn't clean the pushrod/ball bearing then that was a waste.... I'd check the springs...

If you remove the airbox and get clamp on filters, you'll probably have to get a 27.5 pilot, up one from stock...(25 is stock)... If it's the stock needle (5 notches) middle clip. As said, you'll end up with anywhere from 280 to 340 or so on the main...start rich and work your way down... If you plan on keeping your stock air box...and no lid...under 300 on the main, if you remove it completely, you'll be over 300 plus up on the pilots.

Why pay 50? I've used the stock and Toomey (Dynojet) needles, didn't notice much of a difference if at all. I just didn't feel like taking the dyno needles out so I left 'em in... You can get the whole "Toomey" Jet kit from Magic Racing, brand new...for 29.99 http://www.magicracing.com/product.asp?itemid=1340&catid=364 When I called Toomey and spoke to Stuart Toomey himself, if you were to buy the needles alone from Toomey direct they would cost you more than this.... The 270 and 280 main jet sets they come with are only worth a few bucks, at most...you're paying for the needles, period...

Hey...Jared. I sent you a PM about the pictures and step by step... This might be a sticky quality thread...very good info. One tip, which...I may have skimmed over... Once you pull the jugs, stuff a rag into the opening in the cases. You've done enough of these...I'm sure you did or almost had a circlip pop out and drop down into the cases... That'll turn your mood sour in a hurry... Great article, keep it up!!

First...get a new cable or get the right cable. The thought of a "plastic shim" ruining a weekend or even a day of riding would suck... Second, time to take apart your clutch. You might have Heavy Duty Springs in your clutch. If that's the case, it's going to be harder to pull. You can get an easy pull lever and perch for relatively cheap... A lot of people put new clutches in their banshee and put HD springs in that don't need it. Since you didn't list motor mods, I"m going to assume you don't have an extensively built shee. Unless you're running a pipes, jetted, ported and higher compression motor, 3 HD springs and 3 stock springs should work just fine...

Because you can get an adjustable timing plate that will allow a range of adjustment from +10 to -10 degrees timing,for 35 bucks plus shipping a +4 setting results in a nice, noticeable bottom end increase in respone...and it's so cheap it's a no brainer...

Sold. PM me your email address. You'll have paypal money in your account and your shipping address on Friday first thing in the AM if that's ok with you...

If you have the stock airbox...280s will be fine for warm weather, might want to jump to 290s or 300s to be safe, especially how cold it is over there now. However, if you removed your airbox and have clampons, you'll end up with 320 to 340 on the mains....figure 340 to 360 for winter jetting.... Since Manhattan just got hit with 2 feet of snow, you might want to get a snowmobile for the time being...

My safest advice would be this. Remove and disassemble the carbs completey, taking all brass and EVERY thing out of 'em. Use a small piece of wood in the carb throat so when you drill out the boss...and it goes through, it doesn't kick the other side. And...use a ton of lube like liquid wrench or WD40 when tapping it. 1/2 turn in, 1/4 turn back....etc. When you're done, a little soap and water, compressed air to dry her out. It's hard to screw this up if your somewhat careful and patient!! Good luck...

Make sure you get the drill bit, tap and brass idle screws/locknuts as well. The caps do you no good unless you have them.

Been doing this for years... Drill a hole, pull a valve stem inside the rim on the original hole, and put a new one on the opposite side. I have my Durablue set to +4...and widening the front end matches it nicely...hard to get this baby up on two wheels....

Sand... send me a pic...and consider it a done deal. I'll PM you my email address to send it to. You'll take paypal, right? If not...I'll have to send you a certified check, better for both of us....via Fed Ex. PM you in a sec...

What...you mean I should ditch my stock exhaust and airbox with a nylon over the snorkel?? A&S racing out of Michigan has a dyno sheet with T5s, 4 mil cub, and stock carbs pushing 88 horse and around 45 ft. lbs of tourque. Pretty much what I have. However, I'm a realist. I'm hoping to be in the 75HP range. I'm going to have to jet it all over again...bigger, of course. I've got a line on a +6 swinger from a fellower HQ-er... I'm trying to get the most I can out of it...without spending too much. Next year will be big carbs and drag pipes, and prolly a +10 or 12 swinger. Then...it'll be pretty much a dune and drag only bike. I'd like to trail just a bit this year. We'll see... I have no question Jeff is going to treat me right....but he has to make a buck and I have to spend a buck...

Damn...that sure is purdy... I'm hoping to be over 70 with cubs and a 4 mil.... I run Jeff's clutch, 3HD springs and 3 stock springs now with an easy clutch lever...it's not bad at all. Seriously...that's a good looking setup you got there....