dajogejr

http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

It's what I use now...no issues. I got mine at Magics, same concept, similar design... http://www.magicracing.com/Pro-Taper-Unive...p_155-1940.html

There is absolutely nothing the TORS does to prevent you from burning your motor out. The only thing it does, if it actually works, is kill the ignition in the event one or both of the slides stick.... If it actually worked all the time, I'd say keep it...but, since it's proven to be more of a hassle than what it's worth...I'd honestly say unplug all the TORS Hardware for now, and get the removal kit when possible.

Any good reason for keeping it...other than saving 50 bucks or so for a removal kit?

I'd bet your loaded up on the pilot circuit. Put the stock pilots back in, (25) and set the air screws to 1 turn out. If you were running NO airbox maybe you'd need 27.5. People don't realize how good the pilot circuit on stock carbs flow... I think if you do Ellison's choke trick, it'll fall flat on it's face and just about stall out. I'd also move the clip back to third clip (middle, stock)... I bet your feeding it too much fuel from idle to mid...the mains sound pretty close.

Since you're going dune port and CPI (drag) Pipes, we're gonna assume you don't ride, or hardly ride...slow, tight trails. A set of 35PWKs will do you very well, now...and in a while when you make the jump to a cub.

Both wires going into the stock thumb throttle are for the TORS. Do you still have the TORS on the bike?

Did you check the impeller to make sure the plastic is not shot or broken off, and the gear is not stripped? 50/50 with wetter shouldn't boil over, period... I just fill the system, and burp the hose from the bottom side of the radiator with the cap off...I think you have other problems. You could run it for a minute or two with the cap off to get the air out. ONLY for a minute or so idling, it needs the cap for pressure to raise the boiling point....

Call Jeff, he'll answer all your questions, in detail...period. You don't need porting on cubs...ride it first then decide if you need to be ported. They do weld the crank from the factory on aftermarket cranks, Jeff will be the first to tell you he rewelds them because the factory welds from Wiseco have known to be for shit....

Well, if it's coming from the stator side I'd worry, you might not have tightened something down. Clutch side...well, it's been said above.... You say you just put it back together, what exactly did you do while it was apart?

Stick with Nology coils and their hotwires...you'll be fine... Let this stuff prove itself, then...get cheaper.

Why are you putting a 340 main in without doing a proper plug chop first? Stock porting, just pipes and still using an air box, I'd bet money your already rich... You'll probably have to adjust your air screw a little, needle should be fine as is.

Dude...you got bigger problems, like a possible bent subframe, etc... Good luck...

Than you should brush up on you carb jetting a little... :biggrin: PWK don't make a pilot smaller than a 35 for one (if they do, Sudco and Magic don't carry 'em), and if he pulls the choke and it gets better, he needs to go richer.... If he was riding around Mt. Rushmore or Mt. St. Helen at 10,000 feet, then he'd need something that lean... Lastly....the only other thing I can think of is this. Warm it up using old plugs. Put new plugs in, and hold the throttle (while going for a ride, gotta be under load) and keep it at or less than 1/8 throttle, look at the plugs. If they look ok, you need to start looking elsewhere...

To each is own...Wes.... :beer: I say a proper plug chop will point him in the right direction!!

You realize he has Keihin PWKs, not stockers, right??

Well then...Mr. Man.... Get a better office, or change the monitor so no one can see it unless they walk around you to look... :beer:

300 to 320 with an airbox and FMF pipes?? Without an airbox, I'd say yea...but with? I'd like to see plugs... Wes...isn't blueing a cause from too much fuel, and the pipes still burning it in the header?? That's been my experience, anyways....

Get it welded. I just threw out my stock exhaust, it would cost just as much to ship it even if the parts were free, as it would to have a local yocal weld it (prolly 10 to 20 bucks)....

Actually...that jetting should be close with just pipes and a filter. What elevation are you at, and what temps do you ride in? Also...what do the plugs look like?

Well...I'm 1/2 and 1/2 on that one. How do you think your boss would feel if he knew you were surfing a 4Wheel ATV site all day, or even part of the day? Oh well...whatcha gonna do?

JMadd...I've been meaning to ask you, is there anyway to shorten up that sig? Half a page on a big screen is too much. Do we really need to know about a past ride your insurance company bought cause you yard sale'd it...

It depends. If you plug the vent tubes on your carb....and it flips or has the float sticks, would you rather raw gas/oil dump out the tubes, or directly into your cylinder and crankcase? I know which I'd rather have....

It's all good... I had to think, I have a dyna and nology coil...but, my cub did run with over 180PSI on stock counterparts....and ran good before I messed it up.... :beer: When you say the plugs are tan, that really doesn't mean much. New plugs can take a while to color, etc. What matters is how the base of the insulator looks after a 4-5-6 WOT Run on fresh plugs. Bascially, I agree....but I'd still change the plug gap unless you're running mucho compression or alky. As long as your compression is ok, and the carbs aren't way off...which they don't seem to be, I think it's either coil, stator or CDI. Normally, I'd rule out the CDI because MOST of the time when they fail, they just stop working, period. Ohm the stator and Coil...see where that gets you... Here's another few long shots... Make sure the screen in the tank isn't clogged (fuel valve) Make sure the gas cap is venting properly Make sure the vent tubes on the carbs aren't clogged Re-Check all grounds, if the ignition isn't getting a proper ground...it could heat up more than normal after a bit of riding and fail. Good luck...

Unless you're cranking out 200PSI or more...I call bull. I ran stock CDI and Stock coil on 180 plus compression, BR8ES gapped at .028 and no issues.... For a 2 dollar plug, open the gap to .028 and see if it helps....