dajogejr

A++ Seller guys. Just got my flywheel today and he even threw in the crank nut and flywheel key... Thanks a TON Mike!!

Even though he is from Ohio... Great seller. Sold me a good flywheel dirt cheap, got it in very quickly (Paid Wed. Shipped Thur. Received Mon) even though I told him no hurry on shipping. He even threw in the flywheel key and crank nut... Anyone that knows how these trips go...knows how important it is to have the little items like that in your tool box just in case. Mike, thanks so much for the quality product, great price and quick shipping and communication!!!

64.75 bore by 64 stroke huh? What kind of setup are you gonna be running? I hope not OEM cylinders..

Before you buy a new coil, get NGK plug end caps, remove the stockers, trim back the wire a 1/2 inch and use the NGK ends. The stock banshee coil ends are known for going bad/loose/losing connection.

Change plugs, change plug wires (swap from side to side) Clean the carbs. If that doesn't do it...start looking electrical. Are you SURE the carbs are synchronized?

I do the same, I have no choice. The sprockets have a milled taper on one side, flat on the other. Flat goes against the hub, the bolts I use to hold it on have the tapered shoulder. The nut goes toward the tire (outwards). The only question is this...unless you plan on using very, very small sprockets (like 35 to 40) there's not much point in a 4 bolt Honda Hub. I bought my axle with the Honda hub because I got a smoking deal on my previous lonestar axle and my current JJA style. I run sprockets in the mid 40s...so the bigger sprockets with 4 bolt are expensive, about 50 a pop or so...

Here's the whole story...and I'm very sorry to hijack your thread 700. New Vitos crank this year. It is a solid piece, came within .003 right out of the box and welded pretty good. I'd drop it in, but my buddy does an even better job welding cranks and he pressed off the OEM bearing on the PTO side and I dropped on a TZ. I sucked a crank seal mid year. Tore the motor down to replace them both and seal 'em up. When I split the cases, the dowel pins were laying in the case cavities...out of the crank. So...I took the pins, put them in a vice, smooshed them, and pressed them back in. I thought nothing of it. Sealed the motor up, went to the track and made one pass. Got back to the pits and pulled a plug, noticed aluminum. So...not knowing when I'd run the bike again, I purged it at very, very low RPM. It killed the motor. I took it apart a few weeks ago, I think the cylinder is fine. Gonna hone them both (cylinder was freshly plated this year, only about 40 to 50 passes made this year) Piston and dome are obviously trashed. I think the crank is going to be ok since I was only purging when all this happened. If I was making a pass...it'd be another story.

Don't quote me...but I sold Boss parts a couple years back. ( I haven't in a while)...I thought there was an issue using a Lonestar hub with his carrier. I did try to go to his site, it's down...but, as said...I think there is a known issue. Either way, you got what you needed to get done.

Oh boy.... I had one of those dowel pins come loose, get sucked up in the combustion chamber and it smashed the shit out of my dome and piston. So, I'm removing ALL of the dowel pins and using a bearing loctite to keep the races from spinning in the cases. Crankworks and hotrods/wiseco use an Oring. I no longer trust those dowel pins.

I fried my ankle on my mini riding it around the back yard. That baby hurt!! Alcohol, in my own yard...was involved!!

I don't stick my neck out for too many people...but B Adams is definitely one of them. I knew you would be 110% happy with anything he sold you, pictures never do justice to the quality of stuff he has. And...he sent you pipes and silencers in two separate boxes, and I'd bet they were packaged so well they could've fell off the back of the truck at 70MPH and still come out looking like new. As you said, he doesn't have a lot of posts, and now a days that makes it looks like someone is out to rip you off. Not so the case here...that's why it's good to network with people and get to know them and ask the right questions... I hate seeing people get taken for a ride and ripped off. Glad you're happy...

Save yourself the time and money. Look at the serval cub cylinders. They're bolt on duner's dream. You're probably going to spend a little bit more money on the cylinder than you would a port job (probably 400 to 550 for the port/bore/hone) and you're going to spend 800 to 825 on the cylinder. But the power and ease of use will be worth it. You can use all the same parts you have now, exhaust, intakes, etc. Read up... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=136471&pid=1180488&st=0entry1180488 By the way, we're neighbors...I'll help in any way that I can as well.

A Fellow Southeast Michigander huh, how is it I haven't ran into you on the forum before? Here's what you need to setup. What kind of riding do you do? What kind of budget do you have to work with, and how much do you have done to your bike already? Rob builds a fast small motor, no doubt about it. But there's more to just HP, there's getting it to the ground and being able to use it.

Dibs on the flywheel. Will PM you.

Unless you were a collector with more $ than sense...I just can't see anyone buying that.

That is the number 1 draw for MMA. Anyone at anytime can win a fight. Brock will be back...gotta remember he's still very green and getting better all the time. Carwin may have heavier hands than Cain but Cain's accuracy was WAY better, and that's what it took. Brock got blasted...but at least he had the sense to try and scramble to safety rather than let himself get tee'd off on (only to get tee'd off on later...lol) I wasn't a fan of Brock after he made an ass of himself with the win over Mir. However, I think that was his WWE talking...not the true, humble, simple Brock. I think he realizes that now. This is Entertainment of a different type. It's fighting, not showmanship. Brock will continue to make Dana money. However...as of now...Fedor is still the man to beat. Yes, I realize he was just beat on a fluke IMO, again...it's MMA, it happens. But until Fedor signs with the UFC (which, he probably never will) the question for any UFC champion will be can they beat fedor. IMO...now that Cain has exposed Brock's weakness...big time, Fedor would smoke him. Cain would be a decent fight for Fedor... But UFC HW's will have to defect to fight Fedor. And Dana is too smart of a business man to let that happen. I'd be in their contracts they are forbidden to fight in other leagues with plenty of stipulations...

No...don't waste your money on a trail/woods bike. Unless you're looking to get max power out of a drag bike, program custom curves, etc., it'd be a waste of money IMO. Better off with 4 on a plate, domes and good porting.

You've been drinking again...haven't you?

We need more details. Motor Mods, all of them. Gearing. Rider Weight, type of paddles, size, number of paddles, etc. Surface, distance you're racing, gear you're launching in, etc...

Looking forward to results, pictures...!! Good luck!

Possibly remove a spark plug and look down the hole to see if you can see numbers on the pistons... You'd have to have a keen eye or a micrometer to measure the head stud locations otherwise...

Sorry Cam...but any drag racer will disagree with you. Trail riders...sure...drag racers run water. Two reasons. On pavement, you cant run anything else...if you blow a motor or pop a coolant line it takes FOREVER to clean it off the ground. Water just needs to be dried. And...for us Nikasil plated guys, if you pop an Oring, just water won't generally do any damage. Whereas coolant will increase cylinder pressure exponentially and get behind the nikasil and cause it to flake.

Take a picture. The drag guys also run a 40mm aluminum axle as well. Let's see what you're talkin' about Willis.

Just make sure it's aluminum approved... Which, pretty much every coolant is now a days. If it gets REALLY frigid, like sub zeros, I'd drain anything in there now and put straight coolant in there. If not, 50/50 is fine... I run straight water in mine but dump it out and run coolant through it before it gets real cold. However, the last two years mine has been blow up/apart at the end of the year...so I don't have anything in there...lol.

Here I thought this was a post about my ex....that's about all she was good for...lol. Use WD40 and a 00 or 000 grade steel wool or scotch brite pad at first. Then get a can of never dull. The never dull is like a finishing product. You use the cotton wadding to clean and polish the metal, then use a clean dry towel to wipe it off. Like waxing your car. Never dull is the bomb for finishing off chrome or nickel plating.