dajogejr

That's my buddy, Newtz... unless you're going BIG...I'd stick with a forged crank over billet. Cost justification isn't there vs. the failures I've seen too... If you smoke a billet, you might as well throw it in the trash. A forged can normally be rebuilt for reasonable.

That's what I thought too... When your ass is literally on the line...ask yourself how much that's worth to you.

Jim, As I've told Gary and others on the board, I'm very disappointed I couldn't give Gary a better opportunity last year. After replacing a crank seal last year, I went to our track (West Michigan Sand Drag) and made one pass with his pipes. A dowel pin that holds the crank bearings in place (Vitos uses this, hot rods and crank works use that rubber oring) let go and found it's way to the top of my motor. I got to make one pass on a wet track. It hopefully only damaged the piston and dome...I have not split cases yet. So after all the help, back and forth talking with Gary, I got to showcase his product with one pass and put it back on the trailer. That was October.... And...now it's snowing...lol. I sent the pipes to my builder Kevin Herr @ Herr Jugs since he did my 10 mil...and since he's in Sunny Southern Cali, so he can test them. That's a good opportunity for you since the 500 ft. guys up in PA run your motors and his... I have said time and time again, the quality and fit on these pipes is absolutely outstanding. As soon as I opened the box and saw the quality welds and the double Viton Oring'd flanges, I was very impressed. Once it warms up and we start racing again, I hope to have better answers from my personal bike for Gary.... The people that saw the pipes were impressed with the quality and welds at the track!! They were digging the removable/tunable stingers as well.

Not sounding like a smart ass...but where are you racing this bike Jim? What track? Reason I ask is Rob @ RDZ is the king of 0-400cc motors in 300ft. He runs a TON of tire on a 400 cc motor (I think 18 paddle and they are WIDE) and he 60 foots like no other. He doesn't MPH like the other guys but by the end of the track he got out of the hole so fast/so hard it doesn't matter.... He's normally down 3-8 MPH from the slips I've seen/builders I've talked to, but he's getting it done on the national stage in front of the biggest players in the game. Obviously the 421 won't compete in the same class...but I don't think you're too far off with your thinking. As long as the tranny/clutch will hold up to those tires.... that much tire will probably shave a few MPH off the big end but in a shorter race who cares? RT and ET is where it's at. Just wondering where you're running it at (please don't tell me only the dunes....lol)

WOW... Anyone else offering a money back guarantee on pipes...or any other part for that matter?? Hell No. Kudos to you Gary...very nice.

You mentioned you tuned the carbs from pipe to pipe Brad. Did you change gearing, air pressure, domes, compression ratio, timing, etc? Not insinuating anything, just asking... (By no means am I saying I do all this...I'm lazy and we bracket race...so I need a consistent bike more than the fastest bike out there, it just so happens mine holds it's own against other guys motors, cc to cc)

My builder has these pipes in his hands. I plan on getting them to one other person as well if there is time before the season starts. I'm not going to say it was some Joe Blow at some swamp track... I am saying I'd like more input from a builder at a more well known track... In ATV Drag Racing, the two standards are 300 foot sand/paddle track and 1/8 mile pavement.

Tell Fran and Kevin to get their Arses in gear....and get testing with these pipes already....

That's funny, because I emailed Rick's Stator a while ago telling him there are plenty of people looking for a quality aftermarket stator and that Ricky's were JUNK...as well as RM stator. Never wrote back...

Stroking, What is the current size of your motor? You race pavement, right? Why "DON'T" you want to run a lockup?

I replace those small phillips screws with hex heads.

I can tell you if these pipes give you two tenths in 300ft Jim and Gary would be overnight rich... 10HP is a lot...but torque is every bit as important. One of the reasons Gary chose to work with me is I have literally a thousand passes on my bike over the years, different tracks and different riders. I've had hand coned shearers, CPIs and silenced stamped Shearers... I am very anxious to try these out for next year. If I get a tenth out of them in 300 foot I'd be happy....IMO if you got two tenths in 300 foot your bike probably wasn't in the best state of tune it could be in... You could hit 25 to 30HP of spray and only get a tenth or so in 300. And I'm talking paddle/sand track... If there is time, I'm going to get these pipes to one of the top builders in the country who's bike constantly place in the top spots in the biggest races held in the country. I talked to him about some of the things Gary and I talked about and I could tell he was getting amped up about some of the technology used and thought of in their design...

I have a set of out of frame pipes, they are in the hands of my builder. I got one pass on them and I smoked a piston..that's another story. I really wish I had some solid numbers to post up. So...what I can post up is this....the fit and finish are absolutely top notch. The header/exhaust flange has two oring grooves...and they bolted up to my stocker frame with very, very minimal push/pulling. The welds are quality...period. I can't wait to get more time with these pipes....but I wanted to put my .02 in about the quality...very impressive.

Meanwhile...snowmobiles are free to rip up and down the ice as they see fit... I can surely understand the DNR's concern with safety...but that is WAY overboard. Do they realize there is more chance of injury with someone standing every 100 feet than not at all? Oh well....I guess I don't have a dog in this fight since I don't race at all anymore...LOL. Too bad, anchor bay is close for me...I'll have to meet up with you boys on your side of town!!

I somewhat disagree Snop... I went through two RS stators, both new, in two years. The first lasted just under a year in my drag bike, shit on me on the starting line. The second one, same thing... after the second one went I threw it in the trash. OEM since and not a single problem. You could say I have a little more vibration on mine due to larger cc engine and higher RPMs used, but I'd argue it gets pinned WOT for a few seconds then idled back....flat tracks only... And I seal my stator up from the wash. That being said... you do have to have the air gap adjusted properly and have the stator tightened down. I just think RS/RM stators are Chinese garbage. However...they did warranty the first one in record time. From me to them and a new one to me in less than 10 business days.

So...he trued up a crank to .006, sold it to you...acknowledged it was out...and then it was sent back to him for an exchange? Wow...

In my opinion, it's the heart of your motor, I'd bet more check it than you'd think. My question is why it was sold to you when he said he had a hard time getting it to true...was it "good enough" when it left his store???

He had trouble truing it but sent it anyways?

Melted Nikasil is one thing, chipped because of his port work is another. So in the end, the question is which is it?

Send them to Rob @ RDZ, he is a site sponsor and they are his cylinders. If you don't want to go that route, send them to Millenium and the plating will be done properly. Now not trying to be a jerk, so don't take it that way, but even the best cylinder on the market won't last on a properly setup and tuned bike. Not saying that's your case...just saying. I've had a 4 mil and 10 mil cub cylinder, and aside from some casting cleanup on both (FAST did the cleanup on my 4 mil, I did my cleanup on my 10 mil) they both ran very well right out of the box.

Looks like my frame, translucent red...me likey! This is a smoking deal.

I know the depot by me has stainless. They normally have them in plastic bags too, not the bin Of bolts like hardware stores.

I'd like to see that same crank in an actual crank stand...and see what it measures out to ...then compare it to the cases. As far as would I run it? Hell no...not on a brand new build/brand new crank. My new Vitos this year was either .001 or .002...I forget...

If you're putting it in the same set of cases and motor that trashed that vito's crank 3 times...no. If you're getting a whole new setup, it should....just like any other crank would.

I've had better luck with my Lectrons (41.3 done by Packard) then I did the first two seasons running on pumper 39PWKs. I didn't pay for my carbs, they were given to me...so cost wasn't an issue. Are they worth twice the price of Keihins? Good question...most will say no. I might just be lucky...but I love mine. blewbyu has made a pass or 5 on my bike and it is usually pretty crisp and right on the money. Sheefreak's bike was pig fat rich over the summer at a local track, a turn and a half of the needle and he made a couple passes and it was MUCH better. If you go with Lectrons, throw whatever you know about conventional carbs out the window... I just find them easier to tune. I like not having to pull the bowl off to change jets, etc. On my 10 mil cub I just leave it a little fat and run it.... If you don't have the right needle, forgetaboutit!! Dan Hull builds some of the fastest bikes in the world and he swears by PWKs. Look up drill index sets for the drills you need. Get a digital micrometer (harbor freight is fine...unless you're a machinist by trade, in which case you wouldn't be asking to begin with...lol) Don't get too worried about it... My advice for alky on PWKs is start with .122 dumps and mains, power jet wide open and take away the fuel as needed. Get a .118 and .120 set of mains as a backup.