dajogejr

When I had my CRs, I know I paid more than that for the pro circuit one. Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the twist throttles just a CR twist throttle? Use that aluminum tube. The only reason I got them for my CRs is...well, when you dump a bike, the handlebars are gonna hit. Period...and I didn't want to break the plastic one. It was smoother than the plastic one, too.... Check into it, but I think it's just a CR type twist throttle.

Yep...sure is. Screwed a lot of people on a lot of sites. PS, E2S, HQ and a three wheeler site that I know of. He lives within an hour of me....little prick.

Hell...you're up in the sticks, take up cow tipping, year round fun...yeeehaww.... LOL

No problem homie... He gets great pricing, been going to this guy for a long time. But, it's a cash in hand when you pick your stuff up arrangement. My steering stem is the biggest thing I need done, I think I might leave the CPIs from Jared bare metal for a while, otherwise, it's nuts and bolts, brackets, odds and ends. Will let ya know!!!

Damn that's funny.... Compression tester shouldn't matter, if the spark plug hole and depth are the same as a spark plug. I use a snap on that has a shorter reach, I estimate 5 to 10 PSI greater than what the gauge reads. This tax season, I'll be picking up even more specialty tools....just like this. You basically take solder, bend it in the spark plug hole parallel with the wrist pin, kick the motor over by hand, and measure how thick it is. You probably want .040 to .050 for that configuration. You can reuse the Orings as long as it hasn't been ran too much or too long, in my opinion. If you take the head off after a year or a season of use, get new ones. A lot of people reuse them, for 20 bucks I won't. Personal preference...

I buy my meth by the 5 gallon can, VP M1. I mix 5 gallons for the track. I normally go through 3 to 4 gallons in a day of racing, and if I don't give the rest away, I mix it in with fresh stuff the next time. I keep it sealed and off the floor in the garage. Never keep it around more than 3 to 5 months. Last sand drag of the year till a few weekends ago was the longest. Normally, I race/ride twice a month. I used Super M for gas, then switched to R50 for gas. I learned the hard way to use the same premix for purge as your meth fuel.... My lectrons stay SQUEAKY CLEAN!!!! lol... Jared...just stay in front of them and you don't have to worry about smelling anyone's exhaust...case solved... Shayne O Mac...no. I'm debating if I should get my bike ready for Saturday, or tear the stuff I need off to get chromed. I told Evan we both needed stuff, I will kick him in the nut sack if he hits the chromers without our goods....

Are you SURE he used supertechniplate and not just normal techniplate? The normal stuff does not blend with Methanol, ONLY the super does and it's 20% benoil. I used benoil all year, according to KLOTZ's website, they say the super T stays blended in colder temps, whereas benoil does not. Here's the spec sheet on benoil, says specifically don't use below 35 degrees. http://www.klotzlube.com/tech/BC-175-1.pdf Here's the spec for SuperTechniplate http://www.klotzlube.com/tech/KL-100.pdf None of the other two stroke oils blend with methanol....do you think maybe your buddy mistakenly got the wrong stuff?

Looks just like me....fat and happy....LOL. I just switched to supertechniplate, mainly because I plan on hitting the ice once or twice more...and it stays blended with meth longer.... Mine have just a hair less color after a day at the bay and a TON of WOT runs... Yeah, I do like to check my plugs...especially 07 being my first year on methanol!!!!

Bikes come and go, roof over your head and food on the table come first. Good luck to ya....

That's a good point, Shayne...I didn't take into consideration the GYT-R, I was talking about the 100 dollar uncle ed's cheapy CDIs. Dyna is about the same price at the GYT-R. I had a Dyna, and I could tell you the spark energy is greater, because even with the ignition off, it would fire the plugs two or three times. Enough to make you think it was going to start...then realize the switch was off. Had a few of those OOPS at the track, followed by a few M Fers.....etc... LOL.

Are they just whacking .035 off the head, or are they reshaping/rechambering it as well. If they're just whacking 35 off, the new motor won't last long either....

No. Keep the stocker unless you have the time/money to buy a dyna and hit a dyno to custom program it to your motor's needs, or have the needs to use the other functionality like a stutter box, tachometer, Nitrous Inputs...shift light inputs, etc. Any other aftermarket plug in CDI is junk. None of them give you 1000 extra RPM. They advance the timing, which can be done easily with a 35 dollar plate. Save your money.... They are worth it on a 4 stroke, on two strokes they are worthless.... If your fouling plugs, fix the jetting or clean your air filters, a properly jetted bike won't foul plugs....

32:1 is fine. Please turn your caps lock off, as well.

Get a clymers manual...there are two crank seals, one on the clutch side, one on the ignition side. You have to split the cases. Here is a ROUGH step by step on how to do that.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=56926&hl= OK...next....LOL. Apparently the pics in that thread are not there anymore, or...they've been removed. I can't see them. Oh well...clymers manual it is for ya.

If you haven't bought your cub already don't buy it. It's not a bottom end motor... You can buy pipes and carbs to make the power come on a little earlier, but IMO you're detuning it from what it was made to do. A 4 mil cub on gas can range from 85 to 100 HP or so, give or take, depending on the parts bolted to it. There are a TON of cub threads here, read up on them. Are you prepared to upgrade the tranny, clutch, swingarm, longer chain and brake line, better tires, etc? A one into two carb is great for casual riding and trail riding, but you're trying to mate that to a snorting, fire breathing cylinder setup. They produce "better" bottom end on a set of stock cylinders.... Before you spend a lot of money, I'd suggest you do a LOT of searching on a cub motor...I think you're going to find for what you're trying to do it might not be your cup of tea.....

Did a little research, seems a racing buddy of mine knows the guy/shop making them here in MI. I'll hopefully have one in my hands before too long...

Not too worried about the flow pattern, rather the easy sealing and less O rings to worry about... I run drag races with methanol, cooling isn't a problem for me, keeping it sealed easily is...and more people cut domes than they do stock heads.

35 plus shipping for a cast timing plate from RS or ebay, spend the 10 or 15 you'll save on a magnetic drain plug or a few quarts of two stroke oil...it'd be money better spent! I looked at their head, and to be honest...it's pretty much what I'm looking to maybe get. 6 orings instead of the 15 or 18 in a regular two piece head....hmm.... And they're in MI....

Got mine from Jeff @ FAST....not sure what brand, click on his banner. They are very nice to have, pain in the ass to clean all the shavings and crap off them though... I change my tranny oil every couple of races, even though the fluid still looks clean, that plug has shit on it every time.....

Set the timing back to 5. 100 PSI is TOO low. Seal the Oring for the PV, but that's not gonna change much. What is your squish? What kind of compression tester are you using? does it have the same reach as a spark plug? (Thread depth) I unless you put 28 cc domes in there...or you live at 10000 feet, 100 PSI is way too low. Do the plugs have antifreeze or coolant on them by chance? Something ain't right, you've got some checkin out to do.

I'm hoping he's kidding with the 140 HP out of a 4 mil cub...too. Maybe a 10 mil DM on alky....but no one is going to push 140 out of a 4 mil cub without some damn good dyno fudging numbers, or a dyno chart done in MS Paint.....

My advice is don't go any further than you are now. YOu start getting that high up in compression AND timing, the motor will fight itself at high RPMs...leave it as is..

I think I may have a air of end cap replacment sparky spark arrestors for you. They've been sitting in my truck...and I think they're for CPI silencers. My friend on here Jeremy gave them to me, I have no use for them...my pipes need slip on style... I"ll get a pic or two up and measure 'em. You can have them for shipping if they're gonna fit.

Heat baby....and more of it. Worst case secnario is you trash some seals and bearings and they cost 30 to 40 bucks for a new set anywho... Lots of heat!!!!

Wait till you see what Sean is building....flat out retarded....