dajogejr

Ray, I used buy it now for those shifters. I'll met up with you some time this week with an Andrew Jackson in hand.

You're not getting an accurate reading by using either of these methods...however, whatever works for you is fine.

Lee is working on a Video software upgrade. I heard this second hand. That was the cause for the latest outage the other day....

I think the chrome on my Shearers are beautiful... However, after two rides, it split a seam. He warranted them and sent it back within a week of having it in his possession. It's hit or miss with shearer. I think he makes a great pipe, but sometimes the welds aren't great quality. When I got my pipes, the delay I waited out was because he switched chromers....I paid for production, but got show for free due to my long wait. Keil...the RDZ pipes are not a fraction of the price as Shearers. He does not offer chrome at all, and here's his pricing: Smallbores 449.00 Bigbores 529.00 And those are for stinger tube pipes, not silenced....you can get bare shearers stinger tube or silenced for that much. RDZ pipes are basically a Matt Shearer pipe with Rob's own tweaks done to them..... I also have CPI pipes....but they are one out each side, and I'm 99% sure they are small bore. CPI and Shearer both run just fine on a cub...get whatever you can find in your price range. You won't be dissapointed. This is with OOF, though. I would NEVER buy CPI inframes, their fit/routing is terrible. Between spark plug access being shitty to the stinger tubes hitting the air filters, they're crap. The Shearer inframe has the best stinger tube design in the biz as far as I'm concerned!!!

Do it right, get the kit with the idle screws....or hell, get better carbs, some 28PWKs...LOL. You need to have some slack in the cable. The adjusters on top of the carb caps are used to sync the slides. If you're in a pinch, you can use them to set idle, but it's a PITA. Do it right, get the screws. That guy on ebay is a tool. The stock carb tops need to be snugged on by hand, then use the supplied L bracket and hold down screw to anchor it...THAT'S WHAT IT'S FOR....that ebay dude is a schmuck.

Exactly...total BS.

It stands for Dumb MotherF***** for posting it. 2K for a bike that puts out 120 HP from K&T, when it should be at 160ish. Stock swing arm for trails, 8 over for drag/dune? C'mon.... I've rode a 100 HP bike on a 6 over arm....I couldn't imagine more on less an arm....it's total BS. If it is real, the guy is a total crack head for setting it up that way, you'd probably get out there and he'll say oh, my bad, it's .080 over stock cylinder, not 18mil DM.... You can't even buy 18 mil DM cylinders for that much....let a lone a whole done engine, bike, etc.....

Low, mid, top are characteristics of where the power starts to come on. Typically, a true drag port has NO bottom end. Very little mid, and all the power comes on top...or in other words, near the peak RPMs. Drag bikes run Wide Open. You get the most power out of a drag port. However....the RPM range you make that power is very narrow...but it can be...because it's held Wide Open from start to finish. It's a trade off. Banshees by nature, have very little bottom, average mid but great top end power. A builder can coax more power out of the cylinders at a given RPM...usually at the sacrifice of another range. An MX port usually has good low power, good mid, but will not pull as many RPMs up top...and won't make the majority of the power there... Dune port is kinda in between a drag and mx/trail port. Not much bottom, strong mid...but still retains pretty good power on top and revs out OK. When we say bottom, mid and Top, it refers to the RPM range the motor is turning. There is no set number... But for example. Say your bike revs to 10,000 RPM. I'd consider bottom to be from idle to about 4500 RPM, mid from 4500 to 7000, top from there on up... Not all motors will rev to 10,000 RPM, some will rev higher... It's a combo of the intakes, pipes, porting, compression and timing....as well as fuel type...that determine these factors.

Oh boy....I"m almost sorry I'm late to this party. All this talk about my member and hot tub time, I'm a little concerned.... LOL.... Thanks guys... Rico, I promise if I didn't ship out from my work the package and labeling would have been more "entertaining"...but since I put Bill to DGERMAIN on the packages I send, I couldn't get too bad...LOL. I promise if you ever get a money order or a check from me, the subject line is...well...subject. I used to pay my old roomate rent with a check. He got every thing from Michael Jackson defense fund donation, pay off Mafia Boss, Transvestite Hooker Sex Change, Farm Animal Erotica, you name it. I think he got smart and started depositing those checks in the ATM.....LOL.... I'm actually out of the good kettle corn, but I'll need some slugs and seals soon...so, package it up buddy...I'll be callin!!! Thanks guys...I've gotten a lot of favors and good help from a lot of you, I do my best to pay it forward and give back from all that I've gotten.

Impossible to answer. IT depends on how modded they are, how good of a rider you and they are.... One man's dune port is another's drag port...etc. You want sleeper looks but world class drag race power.... you didn't just bake a cake and try to eat it too??? LOL. Something has to give. You're going from a stock motor, stock piped banshee....to a ported bike with pipes. I'd get bigger carbs too. Those mods alone could EASILY double your HP output...but you have to get it to the ground as said with gearing, swingarm, suspension and tires....

You nailed it...the engine will work but the CDI and stator have different plugs.

Chase...I PM'd you Jeff's email address...he's a good man and fellow MI racer... If you need his digits, I have that at home as well.

Semantics... You could get 100 responses, different answers each time. Go out and race him...find out. Do you or your buddies have a trike? If not, stop arguing, it's pointless. If so, then go race...the race pretty much solves it every time. Have two or three witnesses at the start and end of the track to make sure there's no false starts, and a clear cut winner at the end. Or.... Just hit a track with lights and timers....they don't lie.

Thank you....that's what I was looking for as well!!!

At this point, I'm kinda thinking I wouldn't have shelled out coin to a buyer unsure of what they were selling....

If you have another stocker, yes. measure the distance from the pin to the edge of the web, then do the same on the stroker. It should be 2mm offset towards the outside of the pin.

You are talking about two different things. One is the stroke of the crank, 4 mil...is very common. 5 mil is RARE...but, they've been made. Long rod vs. short rod. The stock rod (short rod) is 110mm center eye to center eye. The long rod is 115mm, center to center. Take a picture of the actual crank, including both sides of the rod(s)...we might be able to tell by looking at it.

My buddy, after buying it new in 96...let it sit in his garage in pieces after he broke the shift shaft. The motor sat at his friends for 4 years.... Got it fixed, needed room in his garage for his camper, and I picked it up for a steal. In early 07...I basically sold, traded, etc. the whole bike for the bike I have now. The only thing left over from my 96 is the seat, the radiator, the plastics and the rear brake caliper and resevoir....that's it. EVERYTHING else has been replaced, reworked, new/traded, etc.

Acetone or acid. Unless your pipes are paper thin, it won't effect the chrome on the outside of the pipe. When a piston melts in a nikasil bore engine, they use acid to get the aluminum deposits clean from the bore.

There are a million engine builders out there. All this thread is going to do is name everyone's favorite engine builder here. And for most people, it's the only person they've ever had port a motor. Here's my advice, twofold. Call them all...call some more. See who: 1. Treats you right 2. Answers the phone or calls you back quickly 3. Answers your questions, but asks questions in return about your budget, riding style, locale, etc. 4. Pricing, you get what you pay for. Lastly, support those that support our site...our vendors... Who pay for advertising from money they've charged our members. Putting back in what they're getting out from the site.

Jeff...is this your new company, Havoc? Guys, I can tell you every thing I've seen come out of Blewbyu's shop is top notch, and he's a helluva nice guy to boot.

Remove the clutch fibers and steels. Look for a glaze on the fibers, look for blueing on the steels. Measure the thickness of the fibers (measure the block pads) and the thickness of the steels. A healthy dune ported stock cylinder 4 mil could use at least 3HD/3 stock springs. Buy a nice new clutch cable and an EZ pull lever/perch, and use all 6 HD springs.

Yes. They will. Take the jetting you have in your 28s, add 2-3 sizes on the mains, 1-2 on the pilot...start there.

The pads will show some wear, it's normal. if they look flat and straight, without any gouging...run 'em.

I don't like to muddy up one's for sale thread. However, you asked....and in our state, that bike will fetch 2-3K. Look on Craigslist sometime. It's a stock cylinder fresh 4 mil motor with Laeger/Elka front end. That's your selling points... If it were a chromed out, blinged out cub or drag motor bike, you could get 4-6 K, depending on the chassis, motor, etc. But yours would get 2-3K, to be 100% honest.