brilei5

The motor was built 4 years ago. Yes Dave has done all the work to it over the years, Last year it got a new crank because a bearing on the old one went... I could have just had one bearing replaced but I do not like to do things half way... So it also got seals piston rings and a fresh bore because it was close to being due. It has been a great motor.

The engine is together as we speak it makes 180lbs compression in both cylinders, Thats what it made brand new also. the pistons and rings are good. the lower case and clutch cover are cracked so those pieces would need to be replaced. I will part out. If no one on this site is interested... I will list it on Ebay in Pieces. That being said if anyone is interested in any part PM me. The jugs, pistons, head and domes will all go together.

oh yeah ..... it also has a lightened flywheel.

I think by what I see on Ebay I could part it out for 1200 to 1500. If I could get 1000 and not have to pay all those fees and go through all the work. It would be a good deal for both of us. You will get Ported Jugs with 10mm big bore sleeves good for at lease 3 more blaster piston sizes then you can get into the actual long rod big bore pistons, Noss head, Two sets of custom domes made just for this motor 16cc and 17cc, Hot Rod Long rod Crank, Hinson Basket with Yamaha Clutch, V force two reeds, Stock carbs with tors elimated and professionally installed idle screw set, Stator, Pro design plate, Modified shift star, Complete transmission, Waterpump etc... I should mention with the 16cc domes you will need to run 108 min octane...with the 17cc's you could run 104.

What I have is a complete engine built by MPracing (when Dave had the buisness) now he is DAVE MOORE RACING. It is a 370 long rod motor. It has 10mm big bore sleaves, NOSS blue head with Daves custom cut domes 16cc and 17cc, Weisco pistons, HotRod Long rod crank. vforce reeds, stock carbs, Hinson basket. The trans is in great shape. I also have the stator and an adjustable timing plate. engine has 180lbs compression in both cylinders and a Play/Race port job. It is a very strong runner. NOW FOR THE BAD NEWS. The lower case half and clutch cover are cracked due to a CRASH. I had a get off on a pretty steep hill in Big Rock KY, somehow as the quad rolled down the hill something hit the kick start lever and caused the crack. NOTHING else is hurt in fact After the crash it fired right up but then I saw the fluid coming out of the case, so I shut it off immediatly. This has been a great engine, all work done by Dave Moore racing. The bore pistons and crank and all seals are were all put in 1 year ago along with the reeds and clutch. maybe 20 hours on it... woods riding. I parted out the rest of the quad on Ebay this is all I have left. So if anyone is interested contact me about part or all of it. Otherwise it will be on Ebay Next week. My Ebay ID is brilei5, check my feedback. PM me or email at brilei5@comcast.net. I am located in NW Indiana.....219-696-0175

I have this for sale on Ebay here is the address http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...404092&rd=1 I have a TCS rear shock on there also so check my other auctions.

Hey guys, If anyone has a straight A arm frame with no cracks that they are selling within a couple hours of northwest Indiana or near Chicago I need one. I dont care what color or year as long as it is structurally sound. I do not want to have one shipped, I would much rather see the frame in person and pay cash.

I am also a woods guy and my work was done by Dave Moore(previously MP now Dave Moore racing) I get alot of people commenting that they have never seen a Banshee perform like mine in the woods. Its got ALOT bottom (for a two stroke) however in addition to the port work I run 16cc domes wich requires 110 octane. There are alot of builders out ther who do very good work. Get some names make some phone calls and use the guy you feel good about. Good Luck.

Thanks for the reply. That is what I suspected. I will just stick with my current set up, I am not at all unhappy with it. I just figured if I am buying pistons and a crank anyway it was worth asking. Thanks

Well here is the deal. The left side crank bearing is toast. Thankfully though I caught it soon and the only damage other than the bearing is some detonation on the left side piston crown around the edges. So I am going to replace the pistons and I think buying a new or reman crankshaft is the way to go. I have too much invested to take a chance on the other bearings being bad. So, what I have is a long rod motor with a woods / low to mid port job with 67.5 mm bore. My question is if I go with a 4 or 5 mil stroker crank will my port configuration still work? The exhaust port hieght is 25.5mm I can give the other measurements if need be. Also I am a woods guy (one of the few on a Banshee) . So I run stock carbs to keep the low end strong. Can stockers handle a stroker? I kno strokers are more powerful but is it worth the investment for it for a woods/ mx quad? Your opinions are will be appreciated. Thanks

The Noss head with smaller domes will make you some extra torque. If you can afford, and have access to race fuel go with 18 or 19 cc domes. Since you went with the 22" tires you shuold drop down to a 13 tooth front sprocket, that will get your gearing back close to stock. A swing arm skid IMO is the most important skid. That rotor and sprocket are low. I run Toomy t-5 pipes but I hear the Paul Turner mids are a good pipe. For what a 2 into 1 carb set up costs your money would be better spent on a woods port job by any reputable company. I have been riding/racing my Banshee in the woods for 8 years now and I gotta say good suspension is just as important as pure horsepower. Oh and by the way BUY a stering stabilizer!!! you WILL go faster in the woods it the bars are not getting jerked out of your hands by roots ruts and rocks.

the main thing you need to find out is if they fit the stock size hole in the spindle OR if the spindle was reamed bigger to accomidate (sp) them. if they use the stock size give Ricky Stator a call, He sells direct to some of the A-Arm makers I hear. if they have been reamed give BURgard a call.

As far as the piston to wall clearence goes. On Forged pistons, wich is what Weisco's are. you should hone to .002-.003 clearence. You have .005-.006 that would affect compression a little bit. BUT in my experience, I notice about a 10% decrease in compression when piston to wall gets to around .008-.010. Thats when I know I need a rebuild. Who ever bored your Cylinders may have gone too big in my opinion. Any machinest should mic the piston and then bore and hone to the correct tolerance.

Rils is PROBABLY correct. O-Ring. Hot and spewing coolant aren't always related. Its probably one of the combustion chamber O-rings letting compression blow by into the colant system. As far as the timing and compression go, BOTH are fine lots of guys rum 10 degrees advance, JUST MAKE SURE you have high enough octane or DETONATION WILL RUIN your motor. 110 octane should be o.k.

The first thing I would do is check the gauge. Borrow a freinds or buy another. They do go bad. Depending on elevation 0-1000 feet above sea level your compression should be around 130-140 with the shaved head. I have had compression go up slightly after break in, but I am talking 177 going up to 180. Are you doing the test with the fuel on-- throttle open-- and kick it until the gauge will not go any higher? That is what I do. If it is still low. I would start checking things like o-rings or head gasket. Also you did not mention any Port work. But port work can effect the static compression. i.e. the same size engine with different size exhaust ports can have different compression readings on the gauge but the same compression ratio.

I have a set and so does one of my riding buddies.They seem to be holding up just fine. I would not go so far as to say top notch. the powder coating could be betterand ball joints with zerks would be nice instead of having to pop off the boots to grease them. However for the money, they are a good deal. BTW If you ride any trails where you get muddy or wet at all, whatever -arms you get, get ball joints INSTEAD of heims. MUCH less maintenance and no squeek squeek.

I have had works triples with rezzies for about four years. I ride a little of everything, fast trails , local MX, Harscrambles, They are WAY better than stock. This year I sent them to TCS along with my stock rear to have everything re valved and re sprung. They are night and day better. Thats the cool thing about Works IMO. PEP, and TCS shocks start with Works bodies, At laest they used to. So buy the Works now, and enjoy them. When its time for a rebuild, If you want you can step up the performance.

OK Here is whats up. I got it wet crossing a creek yesterday. all the conectors in the rear by the CDI got wet. It would start and idle but give it gas and it would just cut out and bog but not die. I dryed all the conectors out and then it ran fine for a few hours. then at the end of the day it happened at wide open in 6th gear, it felt for a minute like I burned it down, But I stoped and played around with the conentors from stator to the harness, in particular the yellow wire. I wiggle it and it comes back to life. I ride for a few minutes then starts doing it again. So this morning I replace that connector with just a jumper to see if the connector was the problem. It still sputters and bogs. So I swap ouy the DYNA CDI and put the stocker back in take it for a quick spin and pretty much the same problem only with the DYNA give it gas and it falls right on its face with the stock CDI it sputters hard but not as abrupt as with the DYNA.So now I am wondering the STATOR could have gotten wet. could it be toast? BTW the yellow wire connector was just a coincidece I think. I could use some help. If anyone could tell me how to trouble shoot the stator that would be cool. I do have a Digital volt ohm meter. any help would be appreciated.

Vito,s Performance is pretty big into Blaster mods I think. Thats a good place to start.

After I posted the number I called it, he is NOT answering. BIG SUPPRISE!

NOPE!!! NOW HE ISN'T ANSWERING THE PHONE EITHER. I THINK WE ARE GETTIN THE HIGH HARD ONE!!

There is a thread in the neg feedback forum on this guy. His name is Jason Pearson his phone number is 660-342-1000. I sent him a money order for parts a month ago. He said he was injured at work when I finally got a hold of him on the 27th of Feb. he said the parts had gone out that day. Well I dont have my stuff either. I am in Indiana, snail mail is 5 days. its been 9. I hope it turns out alright BUT I have the feeling we are getting FU**ED!

Stock rod ends are metric 10 x 1.25. you need two left hander and two right handers. I did up a set last summer and they SUCKED. I did not but junk either. They do not have the articulation (sp) of ball joints. And a LITTLE mud and water and they became noticeably stiffer (tioght like a tiger) Seriously though if you find ones with the correct range of motion cool. Make sure they are teflon lined or SOMETHING or ones with a Zerk would be the way to go. I hate to say it but the stock yamaha ends are pretty hard to beat, the bullshit price is what makes them hard to swallow 45-50 bucks each. Best of luck with whatever you decide.

I WILL be there Sunday also with my buddy, I am on a Blue Banshee he is on a YFZ Limited we both run Hipers. I am not sure what we are driving but we will be towing the Red enclosed trailer and we always park in the lower lot straight down the hill from the gate. Hope to hook up with you guys. BTW my name is Brian.

My Bad. He is Jason Pearson in Greentop MO, Still not two weeks from Indiana and still I have no parts and no reply. WTF.