canyncarvr

Considering a relatively properly setup machine: If it only idles with the choke out (on) when warm, that suggests an air leak some place. Your cross-connect tube is on? Correctly? ...and the tube itself is not split or cracked or disformed (bulging) where it connects to the carbs? Replace it if you have any question about it. Don't run it at all if that cross-connect (it feeds choke enriched fuel to the RH carb) has a problem. You WILL end up with a ported RH piston..a cute little hole right at the top of the crown! That's not a good thing.

Fix what you know is broke. The slides install with the taper toward the airbox, or the rear of the machine. They are 'keyed' but not on the same SIDE of each carb, so you CAN put them in backwards (like you did). Put the slides in the correct way. Whatever problems you have after that is some OTHER problem. LEAVING them that way is plain bogus. The cutaway on the slide is what gets air past the jet block when the slide is toward the bottom of the carb bore. It is responsible for off-idle response and lower throttle performance. However it runs with the slides backwards isn't NEARLY as good as it will run with the slides in the CORRECT way...and the other problem fixed. If all you do is WOT all the time..it won't matter much.

Yes, you can use the stock filter...buy why would you want to? You will enjoy a longer lived Banshee with a good aftermarket filter..like a K&N mounted on a ProFlow or other (Modquad?) adapter. Big performance gain? It should. Depends on a lot of things. I have a set of bored Miks on mine..and the work was done by someone I've had work done by before, I know he does good work, it DOES work and I trust him. Did it make a big difference? Oh yeah! His work is more than making the things bigger. He taper bores the carb, too..in addition to oval boring them to 28s. Will you have to rejet? You most likely will if your jetting was spot-on before. re: big carbs Probably close to the #1 error in tuning, too much carb....strapping a dominator Holley on a small block bracket car. CAN it work? Yep...if it's in BALANCE with all the other 'stuff'! Probably won't, though. VELOCITY of the charge is important, especially on a 2-smoke. Velocity goes down when size goes up...everything else remaining the same. 35mm is darn huge for your average 175cc (1/2 your Banshee). Yes...some 125's (bikes) have 38's..but that's kind of a special case.

Re: '...and i advanced my timeing 4 degree's what would my psi be then?' Answer: It will be the same as it would be with the spark timing retarded 4

re: Orange to the front Where did that idea come from? From the Banshee jetting FAQ:

The 'elsie' was ever released in the states? Don't think so. I thought the states wet model was the RZ... Not that it matters. It's still the heritage of the Banshee. A power valve setup..even the servo controlled RZ type would be fun! Don't know how they fit...not even the A-C of it......

This an IMO post..I'm not selling anything, I'm not involved other than being a happy customer. I haven't seen much posted in this vein..and there are a LOT of smiles just waiting to be had if you're still running OEM Mik's. More than a few folks/outfits bore carbs. I don't know what kind of work they do or how effective the end product is. I DO know what you'll get from RB-Designs, though; beautiful workmanship AND a set of carbs that WORK! I've had an RB modified carb on my dirtbike for a few years. It was a great investment in riding enjoyment getting it done. When I got my Banshee last year, the same carb work was on my short list of things that had to be done! Just did. His work is a pretty as it's ever been. He melds a combination of bore sizes and bore angles into a work of art. 'Pretty' is nice...but also pretty worthless if the end-product doesn't perform as expected. Ron Black's (The 'RB' part of RB-Designs) modified carbs DO perform. What a treat! Mid-to-upper torque is improved considerably..due to improved air/fuel charge velocity and rarification (I suppose..I'm not an airflow master). The upper RPM band is raised a good bit, too. It's not just a matter of 'bigger' being better. Yeah...30mm is bigger than 26mm, but it's the application of power that matters. Well, to me, anyway... and in that way, this modification is impressive!! If a set of 38mm PWKs is on your short list..then go for 'em! If you want no hassles with fit, cables, boots, and manifolds ....but you want a better performing Mikuni..a carb set that works better throughout the RPM range, consider an RB-Designs carb modification. Ha! RB can modify your 38's too! I've had my Banshee for only about a year, but I've ridden Yamaha's 350/400 twins for decades. Those familiar with the R/RD/LC/RZ lineage know they're screamers. I had close to 70,000 miles on my last RD. I've ridden 'em some. The point is, I'm familiar with 'Banshees'..even if they only have two wheels! While this IS my opinion..it IS based on something other than hot air. Well...maybe I'm good at THAT from time to time, too! Cheers!

The greater suburban area of the Rogue Valley...about 25 miles north, about seven miles out of Rogue River.

Banshees come the low tension wires to the ignition coil backwards...ground to the + side of the coil. The often referenced Banshee Tuning FAQ recommends swapping the leads so the supply wire goes to the + side of the coil. I haven't found (have looked) much about the whys and wherefores of this swap. One mechanic wrote that it took 40% more power to fire a spark plug on a coil with positive polarity. I don't know why that would be so....it makes sense to have the positive wire to the + coil lead...but Yamaha wires it backwards for SOME reason? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

Given: Every machine, every situation is different. You can't jet by what someone else does or what someone else tells you. But.. On my stock-piped Banshee at sealevel, 50

Not specifically related...but one myth about 'race gas' is that a higher octane fuel makes more power than gasoline from the pump. Not necessarily. A higher octane fuel does not make more power than a lower octane fuel, other circumstances being equal (age of the two, moisture content and such). The higher the octane, the more resistant to the sorts of things boonman already said. If you have an engine that does not require a high(er) octane fuel you are wasting your money using a higher octane fuel. Where a higher octane fuel is useful is when combustion pressures (part of which are determined by static compression ratio) generated require such a fuel to prevent pre-ignition, detonation and other such explosive actions. The 'exploding' part isn't good. The compressed fuel charge is supposed to burn...not explode. And it's supposed to burn from a single (hopefully a planned/timed) ignition source. Another by the way...the distillation curve of a particular fuel is more important than the octane number (research or otherwise). The following are the specs of (for example) Trick 114 ...a 'race' fuel: Typical Properties Research Octane (R.O.N.) 114 Motor Octane (M.O.N.) 106 Anti-Knock Index (R+M/2) 110 Reid Vapor Pressure 6.9 Distillation Curve (

Just got off the phone with MT. They have been shipping the Banshee DF3s for about a week. Called RockyMtn. They expect to get them in about a week. Looks to be about a week, 'eh? BTW...there is some input from other riders concerning cage wear on the DF3s. This has supposedly (says MT) been resolved. The phenolic make-up was changed. Again...more than once I've read both complaints and raves concerning the Banshee DF3s. SOMEbody is confused...cuz MT just started making them in the past week!! Either they are lying...or someone is mixing up DFs, DF2s and DF3s.

re: seems backwards. Yep. If you're out 'too far' on the air screw (more air), that is an indication that you need a smaller pilot jet. Likewise, if you're in 'too far' (less air), that is an indication that you need a larger pilot jet. That's a generalization. If you're running a modified carburetor (RB-Designs for example), you will find that the air screw has a completely different effect on tuning than on an oem carb. For example, the 'too far' out idea doesn't really apply. Anyway...a turn in on the airscrew for a choke cold start, then re-adjust for normal temp running may help. Kind of a pain. How about your choke/cold start procedure? If you don't do this already, choke it, kick it a few times with the ignition off, then try to light it up. You might try varying the 'few times' idea. All things considered...how it runs when it's warmed up is much more important than what it takes to get it started. If you have to fuss with it some to get it choke/cold started and it runs perfect when hot...that's not too much to deal with, is it. A general btw...the higher the tuned state of 'things' the more likely there is to be choke/cold start problems.

The question was in regard to the needle JET. A response of 'longer and thinner' doesn't have anything to do with the needle JET. So, what's the question? Are you asking about the needle JET...or the needle itself? Some needle jets are replaceable..I don't know if that's true of the Miks or not. Needles are commonly considered to give a machine its personality. You can make huge differences in perfomance with a needle change. A lot of different people advertise needles..but not a lot of people make them. For example, you may get a 'K&N' kit..but there is DynoJet hardware inside. I'm currently running Dynojet DNO304 needles. Completely different animal from the oem needles. That's not a recommendation...I'm just saying I'm using different from oem needles...and they are...well...different!

Sorry. The plug doesn't tell much of anything. Maybe that the heat range is ok. Mixture readings are done at the base of the insulator (which, as pointed out already, you can't see in your pic=). You can't see the base well at all unless you remove the threaded portion of the plug (hacksaw or pnuematic cut-off). There are spark plug viewers specifically designed to look down into a plug. Run about $50. Come with magnifying glass and a light. You're looking for a ring at the base of the insulator. Commonly considered to be 'good' at about 2mm wide. Wider than that? Too rich. More narrow? Getting close to too lean. 1mm is optimum...but that's cutting it pretty close. Unless your jetted for THAT DAY..meaning a certain temp, elevation, riding condition and rider, a 1mm ring might get you into trouble. You can read mixture tell-tales from the flat of the threads, too. In any case, the carb has a number of circuits. Each will leave it's own 'mark' on a plug. That's why a WOT plug-chop is useful (for determining the selection of the main jet). Otherwise, with just 'riding around' you're using the pilot/air-screw circuit, the slide, the needle jet, the needle and the main in various combinations at different throttle positions. The color you easily see on the nose of the plug is more related to proper (or not) heat range than anything else. You might see some evidence of fuel/oil additives. Cheers!

Is the TORS off?

If you haven't taken a gander at this...check it out: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Note he does recommend a jetting change for timing adjustment. Most would. Gives you an idea that not everyone's point of view is the same. As you stated, it's always best to start rich, go lean.

It's not uncommon, it seems A lot of tuners/dyno runs suggest the two cylinders may well not jet the same. K&N for example. Certainly all number of things 'wrong' can make one cylinder breath differently from the other. Because your jetting requirements between cylinders are not exactly the same I wouldn't consider cause for a whole lot of worry if there are no other symptoms of problems. A little example of something(wrong) that would cause a difference: My brand new Banshee had considerably different float settings left-to-right. Heck...maybe they all do. Anyway, the higher the float, the richer the A/F mixture (all other things equal).

The purpose of said resistor is to reduce/eliminate RFI (RadioFrequencyInterference)....call it static noise if you like. Maybe you've ridden in a hot rod that has solid core spark plug wires (and/or no 'R' plugs)? Turned on the radio and heard a bunch of racket? That's coming from the spark plug wires acting like antennas. Every time the spark field collapses (read: plug fire time) a solid core wire will broadcast just like a radio antenna. A resistor in the plug prevents the field in the wire from collapsing at spark time..no RFI (well..not from the wire, anyway). So...you have some delicate electronics on board? Maybe a CDI? Some such devices can be flat-out damaged by such broadcast noise. Some machines can show devious sparky symptoms...misfires, hi-rpm droputs...if they have a sensitive spark box. If you're dealing with onboard computers!!...well, they had better be protected! While some may argue, the fact is that you can find a number of dyno runs or o-scope graphs that show slight power gains/voltage increases with the use of resistor plugs. Not a big deal. While your Banshee will run likely run just fine without the 'R'...you aren't hurting anything by RUNNING an 'R' plug. The few cents more you pay will show its reward in the clean sound you will get in your helmet speakers that are plugged into your ipod!

As sort'a already said (but you asked)..you can have your stator modified, put in someone else's already modified stator (or plate)...OR use a degree key. They both do the same thing. A modified plate is somewhat 'adjustable' for different timing settings. A key is just 'x' degrees. Offset keys are generally considered not a good idea if you're changing it much. The more advance/retard in a key, the less metal there is holding the flywheel in place. A key is cheap and less trouble. 'You get what you pay for!' 'eh? Factory isn't readily adjustable...thus why riders get their oem plates/stator modified.

With the TORS removed, the throttle is a bit easier to move. It's a common complaint that the Banshee throttle is a bit on the stiff side. They make extended levers for that, too. With the TORS removed, you won't be adjusting slide heighth (sync of the carbs) using the TORS anymore, but with a couple threaded adjusters on the new carb caps. Idle will be adjusted with added screws. You drill and tap the carb body to do that as part of the TORS removal. Actually, that's something to look for..those screws. They will be brass screws with locknuts on them. The only such looking thing on the carb. Both of them are on the outside, unlike the air screws (both carb air screws are on the LH side..so you can't see the one on the RH carb from the outside). Can't imagine anyone doing it, but you COULD take the TORS off and NOT drill/tap the carbs for 'new' idle screws. THAT would be bogus.

Anyone using one of these? Like it? Don't? I have one...haven't ridden with it yet. It's basically a lid-full'o-K&N filter. Just snaps in place like the oem lid. Comes with an outerwear and some jets. fyi..K&N says to put in 340s (Mikuni..not DynoJet) with the lid, and move the oem needle clips to #5. Whoa..that's a lot ofchange. I understand that 'more jet' is not due to 'more air'. Carbs run on pressure differentials. Still...could there be THAT much drop in pressure in the box with just the addition of this lid? It's odd that DynoJet's req (stage 3 kit) is their 280 main with NO airbox at all and K&N wants a much bigger jet WITH the airbox in place. Yeah...I understand the different numbering schemes between DJ and Mikuni. Thanks!

re: i put the 3's on they BLEW BALLS so... So....how is it that the manufacturer of the DF3 hasn't even started making them yet? And you got yours last month? Do you see anything odd with that timeframe? I just talked to them (Mototassinari) two weeks ago. They said at that time they were about two weeks out from their first production run. The DFII and DF3 are hugely different. The II is a screw-together cage with adjustable tension stops. The 3 is a snap fit cage, no adjustable tension stops and an 'air former' that is reminiscent of the rad valve. I've run both the II and the 3 on my dirtbike. The DF3 is hugely better. Of course, that doesn't have any bearing necessarily on what they do on a banshee. My DF3s are 'on order' @ Rockymtn. ***edit*** 2/16/05 Called RockyMtn:

I wonder about DF3s. ..have to still wonder cuz they haven't started making them yet. Well...a couple weeks back they (Mototassinari) said they hoped to start production in a couple of weeks. My order is sitting @ rockymtn...waiting..... Re: 1-dir G3 Have you read the info on their website? Their basic stance of, '..anything sticking into the cage..any airguide, foil etc is bad..' (a paraphrase) makes me wonder. If you think dumping air from a round carb into a square reed cage happens just fine all by itself, well..I wonder about what you're thinking! The DF3 on my dirtbike is a wonder! (pun intended)