compose2

i have a set of holeshot hd's on my shee right now. 20x11x9. they fit just fine

its funny you say that, cuz first im married, and second im right handed. my right hand and arm hurt the worst after the race. guess beating off won't fix the problem

i raced the other week and by the time i got to the last lap, i could barely even press the gas. my arms and hands were killing me. is there anything i can do besides ride that will help minimize arm pump during a race?

My brother in-law is interested in a blaster for sale. looked pretty nice to me but compression tests would tell more. does anyone know by chance what the compression for a blaster should be? then he would be more confident in buying it

i raced my buddy's kx500 up the street with my shee and ran with him just fine till i went for 4th gear. it took me like 4 tries to get it to shift. every other gear goes fine. do i have a tranny problem or could i maybe just need to adjust my shift forks? maybe a shift star would help. give me some suggestions

i use a br8es. the only reason i use a resistor plug is because i have the dynatek fs ignition. that ignition specifically requires resistor plugs. before i bought that ignition i just used the b8es plug

i have quite a bit done to my shee and last time i rode it, the powerband just about threw me off the thing. thats great, but the bottom end is terrible. i was in trails going up hills and it was a dog until i got into the top end. please help me with some good bottom end mod advice

not true.... i have my timing plate advanced 4 degrees and have the dyna fs ignition. my shee runs great on all curves. i also spoke with tech support from dynatek and they said to start it a 0 degrees advanced and then you can bump it a couple degrees at a time till your happy with it

i had a 13t sprocket on my shee when i bought it, but it seemed like i spent more time shifting than on the throttle. i switched to a 15t sprocket and absolutely love it. still pulls hard, not like the 13, but wheelies no problem and i spend a lot less time shifting. i say go with the 15t sprocket and you will be happy

try a smaller tube. maybe like 1/4 inch and put it through the a-arm to try to knock it out with a hammer. i had custom bronze bushing made for me, but i still had a hell of a time getting the old bushings made for me

absolutely get pipes first. they make the most difference for the price. plus many other mods require good pipes to function correctly

is it a big deal that one of the coils on my stator is bent and rubbing the inside of my flywheel. still runs fine, i just don't want anything bad to happen

does anyone know the thread pitch of the axle nut where the wheel hub bolts to the axle. i need to chase the threads, but don't know what die to use. i haven't gone to the dealer for a new nut yet

i took the whole axle/carrier off and took it to work with me today. stood it up on a set of horses and hit it with a 30lb. piece of steel. it didn't move a bit. that was after soaking it in pb blaster for 2 hours. im gonna try heating it with an acetylene torch and then whack it with the piece of steel. if that doesn't work, then i'll have to cut it off with a die grinder and buy a new sprocket hub

i have a 99 shee. when the headlights are OFF, the tail light is OFF. when the headlight is ON, the tail light is ON

i tried to replace my axle bearings on my shee today. i removed the two axle nuts and the rear brake caliper, but i can't get the sprocket hub off. i tried using pb blaster and i tried using a propane torch to heat it, but it will not get off the spline. i also beat the hell out of it with a hammer. won't come off for anything. please help!!

maybe your spark plug caps aren't pushed on all the way. try pulling one of the caps off and have a buddy of yours hold his thumb over the end of the spark plug wire while you kick it. if he gets shocked, then you have spark. i had a problem where i couldn't see any spark, but my buddy got shocked off of it. sometimes the plug caps just don't make good contact

check to make sure your floats are at the right level. if the needle valve in the bottom of the carb is not gapped right, then you won't be getting the proper amount of fuel. this would result in it not idling right and would probly lean the motor causing it to backfire as well. float level should be .800-.880 when the carb is upside down. the float arm should rest on the needle valve but the compressing it. if its compressing it, just bend the little tang

yes i do use resistor plugs. i saw the split in the case like the picture showed. do i put the 0 of the timing plate in the center of that split? the split is wide enough for a 3 degree difference. if all else fails, i'll just adjust the timing plate a couple degrees and see what the difference is

i have the same exact problem with my shee. i haven't exactly figured it out, but i have a good idea why its doing it. i have a tethered kill switch that was connected to my ignition coil. this can cause problems with the cdi. if you have a tethered kill switch i suggest you splice in to your engine on/off switch. splice into the black/white, and the black wire. also if you have a adjustable timing plate, you may be to far advanced

i just installed a dyna fs ignition on my shee. i also have an adjustable timing plate on it as well. i did turn my timing plate back to what i think is 0 degrees, but with the dyna ignition, all it does is bog out real bad at low rpms. it does this on each curve setting. i know the 0 mark should line up with the case, but what part of the case. the center of the tab, top, or bottom? with the bogging, does that sound like its advanced too far, or retarded too far?

actually i have a couple questions. the first one is how should i go about a whoop section. they are pretty deep whoops and spread out too far to ride on top of. second question is i just ordered works triple rate front shocks valved for aggressive mx, how big of a jump should these shocks be able to handle.

i am looking into buying works suspension for my shee. my question is which would be better to go with, double rate or triple rate. im probly gonna go without rezzies but i didn' t really know the difference between the double or triple rate besides the spring rate

will the dyna-fs ignition work well with an adjustable timing plate? i have my timing advanced 4 degrees and was thinking of adding dyna fs ignition

i would say get some v-force reeds or maybe looking into a port job. those two mods will give you noticable power increase