dynabanshee

Ok, finished up about 95% today. After putting the templates back on there is a tad more I need to take out. I'll post results soon. At first I thought it would take an hour or two tops, because I only traced the exhaust and there is very little to take out there. Then I traced the intake ports and was like whoa, lotta metal to remove. The only thing I am a little weary about is the grinder slipped when chamfering the edges. I left a good little "grind" on the side of the cylinder running pretty horizontal. It isn't bad, but you can feel it with your finger nail if you are trying to feel and moving real slowly. Don't know if this tiny different could cause the ring to snag or what. In all, wasn't too bad. I tried everything to port them, metal carbine cutter, sanding rolls, grinding stones, etc. After spending wayyyy to much time on the first one, I started using a grinding stone that looked like the end of a big fat q-tip. Worked very fast. I would get one of those and spray it with WD-40 before using it, and every so often. For finishing use small sanding rolls. If anyone is interested in porting their bike with the templates I'll be done with them soon. Make an offer. I'll throw in the right angle scribe and Dykem layout dye (which was a bitch to locate) for the mapping. If you need a flex dremel attachment, I can throw that in for more. I don't think you can port it with any dremel without, they are too big to fit through the exhaust, at least both of mine were. I also have the carbine cutter and q-tip stone, neither of those which are cheap and still have some life in them.

Maybe I'll look at the YFZ shock option a bit more. I know someone had pics of their bike with them on it. Maybe we can get some close ups of the fab job? What type of welding do you do when fabbing the frame like that? And yea, I watch ebay for them. You can get a new set which look pretty good for about $370. I am looking for a used set for around $150, but I think it is going to be hard to get them for that price.

The answer is probably no, but are there any cheap hacks to widen the front end. I know you can go with yfz450 arms, but I'm not a cut and weld kinda guy (but hmmm, maybe an excuse to become one). Although they sit a little low for me as I like to get air borne a bit. The wheel spacers seem like they'd crack or bend the lugs under hard riding. Are there any arms out there that fit the banshee with little effort and work well. I'm looking for a better front end, but $400+ on arms is a little more than I can spend right now. I was wondering if it would be possible to extend the front mounts out and why no one has made a bolt on like that. Maybe to much weight, would look silly or not that structuraly sound. Let me know if anyone has any tricks for this, or if you have used set of arms at a cheap price.

Yea, go back to the T-5's. Also the rad valves might have required jetting change too. I've never ran T-6's, but everyone I have ever talked to that has said they would run 5's over 6's any day of the week. Everyone has their preferences though, that's why their are so many different pipes.

Many thanks all. Although I hate being sloppy and binding things up to torque on shit, I slid a hammer through the rear sprocket to lock the rear sprocket and swingarm together and it came off. I have a air impact, and I went and got the adapter for 3/8 to 1 in. =) Yes, impacts are freakin awesome. Speaking of impacts, do you ever turn the pressure down low and put nuts back on with yours, or do you stick to hand tightening when working on your shee. Personally I hand tighten em, not just to see the torque, but I get the feeling it could over thread it the way those things are, but maybe I am just to cautious.

Yes, extremely helpful! Thanks for the input. I will be staying within the bounds of the templates and be very careful. 10 hrs, wow, looks like I'll be pacing myself over a couple days. =)

If everything is mechanically sound, maybe do a shift star mod. It makes the shift stat less peaky so it rolls into place easier.

bump. bueller... bueller...

It could be different things, like bent parts. Hopefully you didn't split the case for this before inspecting the clutch side of the bottom end. It could be your shoulder lever is tweaked, spring is worn, shift star is worn, etc. Shees I have owned nuetral can take a few tries to get into, but never impossible. I would look at the shift star and the mechanisms that control it. Also ensure you don't have slack in the shift shaft (ie: can you hold the shift lever and pull the shaft it is connected to side to side). I'm not a mechanic, but I would guess your problem lies in the shift mechanism and not the tranny.

Porting it myself is more of a science experiment for me. If it comes out great, then great, if not so great, no biggie. If I manage to screw up the jugs I know where to pick up a good set for cheap. Anyone have any info specific to the carb/jetting with this port? Not info for porting in general, but specific setup/results based on porting with the templates. Thanks in advance!

Ok, I've ordered my race logic templates. I'm polishing up the jugs and head while I wait. In the mean time, I'd like to get some info from those who have used the templates. I've spoken with a few of you and seem to get conflicting info. I am using stock carbs, nothing special but TORS removed. A couple of you said you had to go to bigger carbs, a couple said you didn't, and even that the jetting was not affected. If the port job doesn't require new carbs to see the bulk of the results, well I don't want to do it. I would be open to boring them since it is easy enough if it can help some. What I want to figure out is a baseline for my carb setup. Do I need new carbs, and regardless of if I do or not, what is a good baseline to jet from if rejetting is needed? My setup is pretty simple: Milled head T-5's Dyna FS Ignition Flywheel 80% of my riding is at ISDRA (Gordons Well and such). The other is desert riding at about the same temp and elevation. I am going to skip the transfers unless I can get a local machinist to do it cheap or convince them to let me come in and use their tool for a small fee. From the past threads it seems like a dremel with 1/4"and 3/4" rolls are the way to go with carbine stones for the getting through the sleeves. Any insight would be much appreciated. I'm making a bunch of mods since the bike is down waiting for my new clutch parts. Thanks! Jason

Damn, I don't have an adapter for my socket. I have a 18" breaker bar (3/4" drive I think) it snaps on to. Any other ideas? I wanna try and get the damn thing off tonight.

I'm having a problem breaking lose the nut that holds the clutch on the shaft (the 32mm with the lock tab). I used to have a clutch holder, but I can't find it. Any good way to hold the clutch without one. Any tricks to breaking it lose? Thanks!

whats the problem with your here we go again. 280922[/snapback] There are about a dozen threads in which this has been discussed already at great length. Search for "race logic" and "racelogic"

If you have a set of these, please let me know what you would like to sell them for. PM me. Thanks!

If you have a set of these, please let me know what you would like to sell them for. PM me. Thanks!

Yea, I was thinking of splitting them. Just a major pain in the ass! =) If I did it I was thinking about putting a 4mm stroker in it. hmmm... decisions...

First things first... Are you getting a spark? Take the plugs out, ensure they are seated into the spark plug wires. Take the left side, hold plugs threaded metal against the head or cyclinder (for a ground), kick it (make sure the key is on, if any, and the kill switch is set to run). See if a spark is created. A friend kicking for you may make this easier to do. Then repeat with the right. If you get a spark, then the problem lies in he correct fuel/air mix getting to the cyclinder. You said the carbs were leaking, like out of the overflow tubes? That just means you probably have a stuck float bowl. Use a wrench a give it a couple knocks on the bowl. Does it stop? If not, take em apart, inspect and clean them. Try starting it again. If you don't get a spark it could be a number of electrical related issues. The kill switch, the key, coil, stator, etc. If you have the headlights turned on, and kick it, do they light up a little? I'm no mechanic, but this is the first step in troubleshooting I would do. After you determine whether it is electrical or fuel/air you can focus your efforts. If it is fuel air, and we're dealing with incorrect settings and not broken parts, so you should have it running great in an afternoon.

Welp, I've sourced a couple different people to buy used OEM off of. Do you think aftermarket would be worth the cash? Is anyone here using OEM inner (boss) and outter plates with a high output engine? I am trying to figure out if this was a freak thing, or if I can expect to mangle my clutch again. My bike is modded, but is not anything serious. Also, let me know about the tranny oil being so black. What type of tranny oil do you run? Is there any good way to check for a leak aside from splitting the cases? Before I drained it, I check the oil, and although it was at an acceptable level, it was low. Thanks!

Major bummer! Went to the dunes, first trip of the season. New mods, was runnin great. Was tearing it up all day at Gordon's Well on Friday. Went out for a Friday night cruise. Was sitting at the bottom of a hill, went to climb it. Almost at the top I heard a pop, I get to the top and I hear a nasty sound like metal pieces fumbling around in the case. Turn the bike off and tow it back to camp. Knowing that is the clutch and not having an enclosed trailer (wouldn't dare opening the clutch side case in the sand) we leave and weekend is spoiled. I just opened up the clutch side case, thinking perhaps a spring popped lose or something... wrong! I open the case and find all of the bolts and springs (from the pressure plate) sitting in the bottom of my case. The studs (or housing, whatever you want to call it) on the clutch boss that the bolts that hod the springs screw into all snapped off. The pressure plate looked pretty mangled from it spining with bolts and such between it and the case. Lots and lots of tiny metal flakes inside the case. I don't think much of it got to the tranny, because when I first drained the oil I saw only a little very very fine metallic in it. However, the oil, which only had about 8 hours on it was pretty dark, black. This is a stock clutch. So, the questions are: 1) What should I do in terms of fixing it. The basket seems fine. I did not notice any damage. The boss (inner part of the clutch) is obviously toast since all the pegs snapped clean off. The pressue plate is pretty beat up. I sure it could be used, but it may be off balance from getting thrashed on the outside. The push rod and other inner pieces seem to not have been affected. I talked with a local shop who was pulling prices, and for a clutch kit and aftermarket plate and boss it was like $700 in parts. I swear a boss and plate have to be less than that. I want to get these parts waaaaayy cheaper than that, even if I go OEM. 2) I just can't recall my oil ever being that dark after just 2 outtings on it. I used 10W-30 full synthetic. I think it is havoline for high revving engines. Do you think it was that blackened from burning up the clutch, the 8 hours of hard ass riding, or do you think I might have a blown crank seal? Let me know what you all think. I have never ever seen anything like this happen, I am just bewildered. Thanks!

Is there not enough adjustment left on your carrier to give you a little more play? Oh, BTW, can you add links once you remove them (like getting another master link)? Never needed to, but wondered... heh.

New switch came today, very key! Much thanks to Dynatek, great customer service!

Liquid cooling at its finest! +

The dyno makes the CPI and Shearer look like the same pipe, just offset a little in the RPM range. Based on the chart, it makes the CPIs a no brainer for topend.

I'm going to yank my cages off here shortly and replace the stock reeds. I plan on swaping them out with a carbon fiber reed. Any opinions on what I should replace them with. I'd like to gain a little power throughout if possible, and obviously making it more snappy. Also, what's involved with porting your stock reed cages? Is it just tapering in the carb side edges of the ports for better flow? Let me know what the deal is with that. Is there really much to gain by doing so? I'm interested because I'm not ready to lay down the cash for V-Force yet. Thanks!