RNBRAD

Holy hell, that's pretty much what I did. Cept I leaned the quad over a little on the right side (helps me work more comfortably and prevents the oil from draining) I used around a 1/2 pipe slipped over the shift shaft and easily tapped the seal back in place with a rubber mallet. You can get the seal for a couple bucks from either a dealer or parts direct.

Same here. I feel a lot of stuff gets a bad rap for just plain ole lack of care, tuning, maintenance. People think if it is an aftermarket piece it has to be better and if it fails, something else caused it. If a stock unit fails, it's because it was designed poorly. Not always the case.

I've only used Goodridge and Galfer brake lines. They both offer some of the best in brake lines.

Some people have no concept of the price of building a quad like that. He would definitely be taking a loss. Some people think Orange County should be able to build their choppers for 20k too.

Thought I would check and see if someone has tried these? Give me a review on them if you would, fit and finish etc? The look killer and I think they are a must have. I'll wait till Monday to order a set. Thanks.

Yep some things are better kept a secret among friends. I always tell my friends my secret is the flywheel weights.

Ugliest is the Bombardier then the C-Dale. A stock Banshee is a close 3rd IMO believe it or not. Funny thing though with a little plastic surgery and a few mods, it's the most beautiful quad period!!! I know I'm weird.

Yes, what Trinity did with my pipes was expand the distal neck out a few mm's where it slides over the proximal midpipe tube. They have 2 grooves on the inside with double orings. It slides right on. No hassle, no fuss and a perfect seal. Just really a killer concept. Expansion chamber are also double o-ring sealed as well where it connects to the exhaust port. Though that was a good idea too rather than the typical single o-ring. One will do but you have a back-up if one fails or doesn't seal well. The end caps are cnc billet as well as the rear hangers, just flat out trick units. Bit pricey for some but I didn't care. Fireman, the hard part is done for you (performance) now take that pipe and perfect the quality. So many more company's need to do the same and I think this would be a way to set yourself apart from the rest. Rule both quality and performance, what more could a person ask for ya know. I think you can do it no problem, especially with the resources and knowledge you can access from this forum. Not too many people realize what kind of info can be gained from a site like this. A stainless unit with the quality fitment I've talked about and you could ship my set yesterday. You may take some of these idea's look at possible cost and do some polling on what people want and what they are willing to pay for it.

I have a stock impeller and the stock internal waterpump cover.

Do you know the rim size and off-set?

For 10k, only reason to buy is to have a collectors nastalgic bike. Obviosly for that price their is no way it could hang, in any aspect, with these new bikes of comperable price range. Definitely cool though and I'm sure it sound freakin killer.

My advice would be to totally get rid of the mid pipe clamp concept. That right there would save people about 30 to 50 dollars and countless headaches. I also would like to see some more stainless lines of pipes. This may also be a good idea and I definitely wouldn't hesitate to spend the extra cash for it. Dunno if they have rivets holding the muffler cap on but replace it with round low profile allen heads. It's the little things like this that make all the difference in the world, at least to me anyway. It's just part of offering a quality product. Good luck with the product and I hope it does as well for you as you do for it. I've always felt the 2 stroke pipe market has really lacked in quality pipes and maybe soon Rocket pipes can offer the best performance and built pipe in the banshee market and maybe other quads.

Afraid you gonna melt?

That was SICK!!!!!!! Good find.

Yep, this has been the hottest topic in the last weak or so. Tons of info out there.

I personally wouldn't run cause I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to track a sled and possibly a banshee straight to your door or the crash site. Some states it's a felony to run. Definitely something you don't want on your record. Even though he seemed like an ass your safety is more important than an impound. Too many effin crazies riding around on slick roads to have any protection on a quad. Some people need to think before they act. I just see too much of the aftermath to think any other way.

Tranny- Mobil 1 15w-50 Pre-Mix- Mobil 1 Mx2t Chassis Lube and bearings- Any with moly additive or Mystik JT-8 Coolant-Prestone 25/75 and Redline water wetter (my preference), or engine ice. For the best possible cooling use redline ww and 100% distilled water, will actually cool better than engine ice. Only downfall which I don't see a problem with is your boiling point is around 250 vs 265 with 50/50 antifreeze. No freeze protection at all though. Just drain in winter or switch to glycol based product for freeze protection. Chain lube- Maxima chain wax, though I prefer just a few squirts of wd-40 occasionally if you ride dunes. Brake fluid- Valvoline synthetic

Hey Led, if you want to make the big bank you may look into working for Cerner. I believe they are based out of Kansas also. They are a fortune 500 company and they specialize in operating systems for hospitals (computer charts). They will train you to program their systems. Once you become proficient in their system you can then become and independent contractor which is an option if interested. These guys make big dollars. My brother has done this for several years. Going rate minimum for these jobs is 85 an hour to a max of around 200 an hour. So definitely some good money to be made in this field. You just have to get your training through Cerner and get qualified to program their system.

Exactly what I did. Then I took my rol-loc polishing discs and die grinder and finished the edges out real smooth. Looks like a molded edge.

I think they are all pretty good. Yet to hear of one that was just crap. I use the pro-design unit, a little pricey but well made.

Your better off running a 21cc dome than a 20cc at sea level. You will be right at the compression with the 20"s where at least a 50/50 mix should be used. To play it safe run the 21's.

Naw just put 3 more of those in it every 90 degree's and you'll have a custom rim.

Ben, Chevron makes a killer oil, best refined and the standard in additive packages. Generally everybody else gets their leftover package after their patent expires. So they are usually several yrs ahead of the game. Chevron for a standard dyno oil is probably the best oil produced.

That just ain't right.