RNBRAD

I like the creep, the longer it takes before the start of a race the further down the track I am. Really though, I only notice it when I start it on a flat surface, never notice it on the sand. I may be able to adjust it out, not sure, I just figured since it has always been that way, as if it's normal.

http://www.ktperformance.com

That's pretty good though, I prolly couldn't touch that today. When I was in HS I inured my back in football, so I had a dr's note to not work my legs or back for like 6mo in weight class so I worked all upper body. So at the end of my senior year I weighed 148lbs and was benching 265. I hit 300 a few years ago but I weighed a lot more than 148.

I'd definitely stick to 93 unless you run more compression. That's the only time you will benefit from race gas, unless you run oxygenated fuel.

I would put them on e-bay and set a reserve price for what you need for them. I'm sure you will get top dollar, not sure what that would be but should be a big chunk off some cubs. I would call K&T first though and see what they say.

Word!!

We understand, there just comes a point in a persons life when their ready to slow down.

Yea I'd look at a smaller carbs than the 35's. I've ran the 35's for a long time, but you need the porting and mods to justify them or your looking at a loss in power.

I always run the fake version, way better performance. J/K. Good info though and I will always double check, I had no idea before.

Sounds like you have a resistance issue, bad connection somewhere. I would check your connections and make sure they are clean and corrosion free. If your lights automatically come on when at higher rpms and will turn off when at lower rpms, this is likely your problem.

What's that translate to in free weights? about 135 lbs. J/K FMH, good job.

That will do it every time.

Happy Birthday you old farts!!! Have a good one.

I believe Shane does the same system, elka internals and eibach springs. Mines costing me 229 with chrome rear spring. Price was awesome!!!

Used electrical tape to mark the line, cut it with a jigsaw then basically smoothed and formed my edges with an angle diegrinder and 3m rol-loc polishing discs. Then I hit it with a cotton wheel and brought the edges to a factory shine.

Lemme know, though I won't be bringing the shee, since it is a dune only quad now. I'll wear you out on a 400ex.

Cole, you amaze me sometimes!! The fitting is a little bigger as Cole stated, I used the stainless automotive heater size hose which fit perfectly on all the banshee connections. It came with different diameter hose spacers which allowed a great fit to the variation in sizes. Far superior way to go than braided line. The cooling affect is phenominal. PM me if you need any details. Sorry about the glare, didn't realize it at the time.

What kind of shape are your t-rex cylinder in? Cubs you can get for around 9 bills alone or 1100 or so with 2 Wiseco Pro Lite 65mm or 68mm Piston Kits, 2-Stud Extenders, 4-Water Jacket Plugs, 1-Ported Base Gasket. I'm getting mine through Cascade innovations cause they will polish it and everything I need for 1300. For 2 bills I'm not polishing mine myself again.

Exactly!!!!!!!!!!! Really you need to let your builder pick your pipes if you want the best performance. Like others have said, custom is really the way to go otherwise you would need a builder to match his port work to your pipes that you already own. Problems here is then the porting may not benefit your riding style.

Cool!!! My trip is already planned and scheduled, ain't nothing stopping from going now, cept my own demise.

I put a new cable on just a few months ago, couldn't believe how stiff those cables get over time. It made a world of difference, so yes try a new cable.

With the clamp on filters you have one less set of intake boots so less of a chance of sucking in trash. Also with a good intake manifold system you should never have to worry about cracking, air box or not.

Purchased mine from Magic Racing, you can get a kit with a coolant bottle relocator and outerwears for like a 100 bucks.

Soo many variables. Each pipe will perform differently on different built motors. Most builders should recommend a pipe that compliments their porting best. Of course the best thing to do is have a set of custom pipes built to your porting specs, like custom shearers. So really there is no "best" pipe for ALL motors. The challenge is finding it. So the best of those 3 pipes is the one that syncronizes the return (scavenged) wave to your exhaust port (timing) before it closes. Also the pressure of this wave is very important. Which one is best for you ? I have no clue.

Mines done it since day 1, even after I changed my clutch and basket, lever, cable, same thing. It's not really a problem though, just a slight creep.