RNBRAD

Just ran across a relatively new formula from Mothers called Billet. I've been thoroughly impressed with its performance compared to the original Mothers formula. It's kinda pricey though something like $12.00 for the small can. Anyone else have some recommendations of products they like to use? Any other types of products people find noteworthy? Another product I really like for quick cleaning for anything is the Honda spray polish in the can. I also like these new Armor All wipes with the towel like dispenser. Definitely products worth trying.

I agree, the heim joints are still to new that their are definitely some designs or manufacturers that are not building them very well as with everything that is new. They have improved undoubtedly just over the last year or so. So don't knock the design just yet.

You don't need to cut any wires unless your going to mount the key above the tail light. Stock wiring is plenty long to reroute to the location behind the tank under the seat where the hide-a-key bracket shoud be mounted. This was assuming that this is where your relocating it to.

Well a good possibility is polishing the frame and the doing a clear PC. As for noticing that the chrome has weakened the frame, I doubt you could even measure it.

That is a good buy !!!!

I guarantee that a good synthetic car oil will provide much better lubrication and protection than the petroleum based bel-ray gear saver. Also you will save money in the process. Now a sythetic gear oil is a totally different kritter. Of course comparing synthetic to petoleum based oils is like comparing the banshee to a yamaha breeze.

It may take the high pressure of combustion to push the air across the gasket. Thier may not be enough pressure to reverse this process from the cooling system. Any excess pressure will be bled through the cap and out the overflow.

Trinity makes the plug lock system.

I had the FMF fatties for several years, they were really a fantastic all around performing pipe. The only problems is the fit and finish wasn't up to par and they start looking crappy after a few years. I'm also not a big fan of the exhaust clamp concept. Other than that not a bad pipe for the money. I ended up dropping the dough for a set of Trinity's and have been thoroughly impressed. I would put their fit and finish up against any quad pipe on the market and actually rival some of the higher end bike pipes. Yes they are made that well and for 700 bones they should be. No rivets to drill out when packing needs replaced and you won't need any clamps, everything is double o-ringed including the expansion chamber exhaust flange. The only things I could find wrong with the system is some oil leaked from the connection of the muffler to the mid-pipe (this was easily rectified with some high temp silicone) and they are a little heavier. As they should be, stainless is so much stronger than mild steel it's not even funny. Performance wise I couldn't give you any specifics on just the pipe. I did too many mods at the time to report any individual gains. They will definitely support whatever mods you want to add.

Hey guys, just thought I would check here before I posted it on e-bay. It's brand new still in package. Check the link for a picture. PM me if interested and I prefer Paypal for payment to insure your protection and mine. Banshee gripper CEET seat cover

Superchicken, is that case cracked on the left side? Weld that mofo back together. Oh BTW paint looks good.

Though i've never checked for pressure in the system after a day or so, it should equlaize itself as the temp drops (assuming proper functioning system). It sounds like the cooling system may be picking up extra pressure from the combustion chamber as BenBB stated. It may be a very slow leak and hard to diagnose. I wouldn't hesitate popping the head off the shee and check just to make sure.

Yea not sure what all it came with like suspension and such, but rememeber it wasn't cheap.

Eventhough we have problems within our own borders, it will seem very miniscule when al-kaida and these terrorists get their hands on WMD and smuggle them into our own borders to be used against us. We can't wait till they arrive, we can't ask are they, you bet they will. President Bush isn't closing those blinds like the president before him did. I'm just thankful that the American people understand the importance of waging this war. Toomey Banshee very good story BTW.

I love it when the liberals try to express their feelings in such a professional manner. It keeps the republican party growing by record numbers. Keep up the good work.

I believe it was Dirt Wheels recently had an article on the Trinity Sandahl Banshee. They had a price list of everything done to it. If I can rememeber correctly that frame was in the neighborhood of 5 grand. The total price of that quad was around 30k.

Make sure you cooling system is up to par. You may have a problems somewhere else that could cause your head to warp, if this has been going on for some time. Make sure your impellar is working properly and that you don't have any debree clogging the head or your radiator. Cause if your head is warped generally from overheating, your problem is elsewhere. It may be beneficial to get a temp guage till you get the problem (s) rectified to save you more trouble in the long run. This will allow you to safely troubleshoot instead of waiting for a disaster.

Just go with a manufacturer that offers lifetime warranty on their a-arms and you want have to worry about purchasing another set. As for ball joint types here is a good article disucssing the pro's and cons of the different types.Ball joint comparison

That frame/suspension set-up would perform great no matter what surface your running on as long as it was a straight one. The key is you don't want to have to make any quick turns cause the downfall of anything with long travel suspension is body roll.

The SST has a better power spread and a little more peak power but have heard it doesn't perform as well as the fatty's with mods like porting. Check the dyno comparison below. FMF dyno

I think a Banshee with less travel would bounce around a lot more. Doesn't look like a lot of the big whoops are transfering to the frame. Just a lot of tire movement.

Sometimes it just takes patience to get all the air out. With my line change I almost had to run a qt of brake fluid through the lines before they started working.

Im not sure exactly where your rich at, but start with the main jet and eliminate from there. First I would put new plugs in it and warm it up then ride it up to wot for a few second, turn ignition off and coast to a stop. Pull plugs for plug check. You will need to lean out the main jet a size or two if your plugs insulator is black. This should fix your fouling.

I've always used fine steel wool with mother aluminum polish. Has always worked well.

What are you using for filters/intake system. Seems like around a 160 main shoud be awfully close. Also do you know your compression?