RNBRAD

ditto

Checkout "which clutch is best" topic in this thread. Should answer your question.

Also take a close look a Jannsen Racing A-arms before you make your final decision. The MX tech a-arms offer a lifetime warranty against bending or breaking, even if you crash. QS may offer this I'm not sure, they just don't advertise it.

Absolutely!!!

That's why I switched to white fenders. Stress marks blend in real well.

Otherwise all colors of wires on both shee's all match up accept for that one wire. Each CDI unit should have all the same wires accept the one green/yellow. Older unit has two 4 prong plugs, the newer one has a 4 prong plug and a 5 prong plug. The reason for the 5th prongs is the green/yellow wire as stated above. All colors are the same otherwise.

The only difference I could find between the difference in years of the cdi is the newer one has a 5 prong plug with a green/yellow wire and the older one doesn't. This is for the parking switch.

Need more info, not sure I'm understading this. You have a pre 96 banshee with the 4 plug and your buddy has the newer shee with the 5 plug? Tell me what you need maybe just rephrase it.

How come no bobble head on the handle bars? Also if you replace the "FEAR THIS" sticker with a "PRINCESS" sticker it's a 40HP improvement. 282193[/snapback] "Fear This" sticker added too many ponies for the bobble head to stay on the bars. Plus I had to use the spring from the bobble heads to stiffen up the clutch basket. As for the "Princess" sticker I did not know and this is why I frequent this board to keep up on the latest "Go-Fast" goodies the market has to offer. Thanks for the input and I will get one of those on order ASAP.

I have a female boss, so it didn't help as much as it should have. lol

Yea, the place it was cashed would be very good information to have. Let whoever works at the place try and ID this guy, if he's cashed a MO there recently.

My stock fibers held up well also. Several years of drag abuse and once the clutch was so hot it wouldn't shift. I figured it was time to get a new clutch so when I broke it down I found the fibers still looked new and almost identical to the new ones I put in. So if I have as much luck with my dirt digger as I did my stock clutch I will be happy.

LMAO!! Congrats Ducman, now let the wifey get the room ready and you get started on the little ones quad.

Yea, but the bling bottle is worth something. Theres some company, maybe a few that actually rifle the linings of the intake. May be trinity, not sure, I know they do a similiar turbo mod on their head domes. Modquad is a good place to check also, I think their manifold system is already spaced out like 1/2'' , so no need to buy spacers.

Mine took 3 days sitting on a old cookie sheet saturated in aircraft paint stripper. I would take and rinse it occasionally and apply new. This will speed the process. But remember, take your time. Let the stripper do as much work as it will. Rinse and reapply, the new won't get down to the paint if you just apply it on the top.

That is totally dependent on the porter and their style of MX versus trail port. Definitely find a ported who you feel will do you the best job and address this question with them. Your question will be best answered this way.

Oh yea it is worth the plus 2's. Make your mind up before getting front shocks on which a-arms you want the set up for cause it will cost you around 150 to 200 to have the shocks redone for the plus 2's.

When your done with the Shee, start on your lawn mower. You'll be the envy of all your neighbors. Clutch case is looking good, may take several apps of the remover to get it off. Also a little help with scotch-bright doesn't hurt. It shouldn't need any sanding, a little at worst, and go straight to the wheel. It's already really smooth. One thing you may notice or already know is that the side cover will have some color variations in the metal. This is normal and I think its because of the magnesium mixture in the mold. Keep us posted on the progress.

You may want to clear coat it or PC clear it to protect the finish. Depends on how thick the original chrome or galvanized coating was. Just so it won't rust so easy. BTW looks killer. On to the next project and hurry up already. lol

Check it again, I immediately corrected it.

Check these guys out, their awesome. PRO-FLO

SPL? You can get that amp for 126.00 HERE.

Guys just call Trinity and have them send you the dyno results of the stock system compared to the CV system, compared to dual 28's,33's and dual 35's. They have it, and these were all used on the same quad for comparison. As for mods, I believe it was close to stock except air box mod. Just think about your riding style and what rpm you mostly ride at. Go with the system that best complements your style.