CHAINSAW

Ive got a 98 shee frame for sale. I also have the lien release on it from the previous owner, so it can be titled. I smoothed all the welds, took off all tabs that I didnt need, and was making a drag bike with this frame. I have since gotten out of ATVs, and this frame is all I have left. The only form I have of shipping, is Beaver express, http://www.beaverexpress.com/ and thats if you live within their area (Parts of Kansas, Missouri, Oklahoma, Arkansas, Texas, and New Mexico). There are no other freight companies in my town. $300 or make an offer. No trades, just looking for cash. The frame has been primered to prevent any rust.

Here is my last project. I have a 1998 Banshee frame, with title. I have removed all extra tabs, and smoothed down a lot of the welds on this frame. I have been working on this frame for the past few years in my free time to eventually build a drag bike with. The frame is straight and is not cracked or broke anywhere. All it needs is a little more prep work before powder or paint. I threw on some primer just to show some of the smooth transitions. frame - $350 obo Next up is my fiberglass hood I was going to use on this frame. This hood has a skull molded into the front of it, and aluminum plates to make up the maltese cross around it. There are also spikes on the fender portions, and on the skulls head. Its also got ghost flames on the front and sides. The diamond plate on the side matches up with the custom seat I had made for it as well. You get the entire seat, including pan and foam with latch.. not just a cover. Ive hung onto this hood and seat for a couple of years with plans to use it on my drag bike, but Im getting out of the ATVing sport and selling it all. The diamond plate looks like it doesnt line up with the two, but thats only because I dont have a gas tank on the frame... they will line up once its on your machine. Also, these hoods are made for drag bikes with relocated radiators, not your normal trail or dune shee. There is 0% airflow coming in from the front, and will not work on a normal machine. Besides the pictures below, more of the hood can be seen here http://www.chainsawgraphics.com/images/index_3.html Hood and seat combo - $350 Prices are based on you picking them up from me in Hugoton Kansas. Im limited on ways to ship the frame, I think the only place around here that might ship is DHL if they picked it up (not sure if they do that in my area). Shipping costs will be actual cost. Hoods normally cost right at $50 almost anywhere in the upper 48, and the seat is in another box and would be about $30 Id guess. So plan on around $80 for the seat and hood. please email me for fastest response at midwesttrikers@yahoo.com

sold pending payment.

1996 Banshee Its got a coolhead with 22 domes and has been bored 10 over with wiseco pistons. FMF pipes and silencers, with dynojet jet kit, K&N filter with outerwear. Its got '01 plastic that is in great shape except for one tear in the rear fender. It has aluminum heel guards which are kinda hard to find. This bike has been owned by 3 adults, 1 of which was a yamaha mechanic who only used it a few times. This bike has been taken care of, has never been abused or upside down as far as I know. This bike is one of the most reliable banshees I have ever been around, and is a good running machine. The only problem with the bike, its needs the $10 kickstarter kit because the lever hangs up sometimes. Other then that, there are NO problems with this banshee whatsoever. It also comes with the sand tires pictured, and the stock knobbies on stock rims. The rear knobbies are brand new and have at least 95% tread left. I will also throw in every single piece I have for it,.. like the stock pipes and silencers, stock jets, bumper and a few other things. I also have some small chrome billet style lights that I never got around to putting on as well. I hate to sell this machine because she does run really good, and is very reliable, but Ive decided to buy a Harley bagger, and need some cash. So no trades, cash only. $2300 firm, because its really worth more, but I need some cash. Please send all questions to my email midwesttrikers@yahoo.com I dont get to the forums that much anymore, and might not see an p.m. The bike is located in SW Kansas. Im willing to drive up to 100 miles, for $2 a loaded mile.

Sold me a set of FMF pipes. These exceded my expectations, and Im very happy. They were packaged the best Ive ever seen,... very well done. I would deal with Cory anytime, and hope to again. Thanks for a great deal man!

http://www.dwflags.com/store/ She has done a really good job for me, and they are very reasonably priced.

email replied to.. Ill take 'em.

Oh no, anything he makes is for sale... it just depends on how bad you want it Kevin is an EFI guru.. he loves that shit. I need to get back to Garden and see him.. finish up some work on a little 250 we had planned a couple years back but never got to. We keep saying.. this summer, but it always get put on the back burner.

Here is a sweet setup. Guys that were twisting the JJ&A have gone to these, or similar axles and have no had problems. Its not that JJ&A axles are bad, its because the guys had busa engines and other wild stuff that the aluminum just wouldnt hold up to. http://www.gigotracing.com/ It might be super overkill for what your wanting to build, because these are mainly made for upwards of 200 HP machines, but Kevin builds some killer stuff. The plus side, you can move your hubs to anywhere you want on these axles. Pretty cool stuff man.

Also a good idea to do... put masking tape (automotive masking,.. the green tape) down on the side that you are going to keep. That will keep the jigsaw from scratching your plastic. Dont use duct tape or anything like that.. just automotive grade masking tape from your local auto parts store. You can also use the tape as a guide if your cutting straight lines. Just line the tape up to where you want to cut, and the good thing you can re-adjust it a number of times without having marker or something all over your fender. Then just cut down the edge of the tape... I hope that helps.

Per Fireheads request.. some pics of some of my old trikes. This is the 85 Z, I fit an 85 CR500 engine into. I extended a stock swinger to +12 and she ran like a raped ape. I painted it all flat black so no one would be able to tell what the hell it was from a distance. Here is my 86 that I did a ground up total restoration on. She was sweet!! Now, here is something you will never see anywhere... at least probably never in person. The bottom end is a 85 Tri Z, with cut billet gears. The top end was originally a YZ465 (aircooled) The fins were cut off, and waterjackets added to convert it to liquid cooled. The crank is out of a YZ400, was narrowed with roller bearings and stroked 7mm. So when its all said and done with, the actual displacement was around a 425cc. On alcohol she ran mid to low 4's and was a screamer. All the polishing and engine turning was done by a local aluminum polisher. Here are a few shots of the bike it was in. Now I just put my little YZ250 engine back in this bike, and have it as a little 250 dragster.. Its fun to ride. Thats the only trike I still have. Sold everything else, besides my 96 shee, and a frame I plan on eventually building another nice shee with. Oh and one more.. here is when I had all 3 Tri Z models at one time.

Thats because I named the pic that.. lol Lee, the maker of these at DiamondJ asked me to take pics just for him so he can see how I installed it. Like the description says on his current ebay auction, there have been some problems with different years not being able to bolt right up for some reason. Mine went on fairly easy, so he asked for pics. Trust me, Im not the maker of these, just a happy customer. So just incase ya didnt know, you CAN name pictures you take anything you want.. :cool: I can name my pics "majicmike loves a arm extentions" if you would like me to in the future :biggrin: Firehead... Ill see if I can't get a video for ya. This past weekend was my last time to be able to really play for a few months because of work and personal stuff going on, but Ill see what I can do to record some footage for ya in action. The lower brakets arent what really worry me. There are 4 brackets on the bottom A arm, and only 2 up top. The top two, and even better yet, the 2 shock mounts are what I will always keep an eye on. It seems to me, all the force and pressure is on the upper shock mount, but then again you know my history... I can build a 3 wheeler blindfolded, but quads Ive only been playing with for 5 or 6 years now. Now, If I had chose to run at the far bolt hole.. the +6 hole, I see where there would be more chance of something snapping under load. I could be totally off to, but time will tell I guess. The questions about the tie rod extensions... my billet tie rods will break before those will, they look to be pretty heavy duty things.

hahaha.. no Im not making these kits. If I had the equipment to be making stuff like this... boy oh boy would I have some kick ass stuff!! The guy is from Fargo North Dakota... and this warm weather loving guy here, wouldnt set foot in Fargo on my own free will. :biggrin:

Thanks for the welcome.. Ive been here a while, just havent rode much in the last couple of years so I dont post much either. Ive still got my 85 YZ powered dragger. I sold the 425 stroker I had in it (the one all polished out) sold my other 2 Tri Zs as well. I even had one that I crammed a CR500 engine into, now that was a beast!! Ill have to post pics of them up here later, I have all those pics on my other computer. I dont blame you bro for questioning me, not at all. I thought the same thing when I first saw the kits, but I dont buy anything without doing research. I searched out a couple of guys that tried them on other machines and they were happy with the results. I was also scared to hit the first big jump for fear that something would break, but these are made from strong materials. Ive decided if I hit something and break something.... I probably shouldnt of been hitting it in the first place. I am running my stock brake lines, only because my extended ones havent showed up yet. However, the stockers work fine, and I could continue to run them, but I just like the look of braided lines to much to not run some. You cant run them sitting in their little holder thingies, but stockers will work. Here is a better pic where you can kinda see the extenders. They just screw into your tie rod, then onto your ball joint on the other end, very simple and cool solution.

Since it seems that Im the only guy qualified to give an honest review of this product, Ill do it! They are worth the money. Contrary to what these guys say, who have just seen pics of them, they do work, and totally change the way a stock shee feels and rides. I was looking into buying a complete front end setup (had decided on the iShock setup) but thought Id give these a shot first. Im glad I did, and saved some bones to buy damn near $3.00 a gallon gas to actually ride the thing. Just like ridin a fat chick.... dont dog it till you try it.

I had a set on an old Drag shee I had a few years back. The bike didnt run the best, so I cant give you an honest review of them. One thing however, mine would rub on the frame and rattle.... which was super annoying. I tried sticking rubber bumpers on the frame, but it was right at that first curve, and the hottest point of the pipe. Ill have to see if I can dig up old pics of the shee I had them on as well.

Here are the before and after pics. And yes,.. this is the same Chainsaw. I agree, all past experience and everyone knows that the closer the lower a arms are at the pivot point, the more clearance you have, better handling, everything all the way around. Every new model year someone gets closer and closer together in production ATVs. Look at the new Kawasaki 450s, there is just an aluminum square tube between the two. However, for some reason with this kit the machine rides and drives 10 times better then it did stock. Now by all past experience.. yes, that would make everything off camber feel awkward and every little bump or rock on the road would pull you in that direction. However, I gave this kit a good 2 hour torture test today, and it surprised me with everything I threw at it. Now I wasnt hitting triples and not running through 4 foot deep whoops, my riding is dune style fast and full throttle. I do a lot of hill climbing and throwing the ass end around at the tops of hills. Thats where I love this kit the most.. I can turn her around on a dime now like a three wheeler. All I ask, is that you guys dont trash something that you have never seen in person, even better rode. I invite any of you that may live around me to come and try her out, you will be just as surprised about how it rides as I am. As for the rods changing angles, they come with treaded extensions for your tie rods. You can see them right up near the steering knuckles. You can tell by the pics, the angles stayed exactly the same. Thats the only difference between the +4.25" kits and the +6" they sell. The holes are there for both, they just send you the tie rod extender according to how wide you wanna go. I went with the smaller, because I still wanted to fit the thing in the back of my truck. And these pics were taken before I could adjust the wheels, but they weren't to far off.

Hey man, I would agree with you if I had never rode the thing either, but Im not b.s.ing you. Bumpsteer is less then stock, and is not a problem. Infact I tried very hard today to find some weak points, or bad things with this kit... I found nothing. When I bought the kit, before it was even here I was allready checking into steering stabilizers and pricing them, so I see where your coming from. So call me a liar, but its true man.. no bumpsteer. And lets all see the point here. These kits are not meant to replace your high dollar total front end kits. These kits, are for guys who dont want to spend thousands, and cant afford to spend thousands on their machine that they ride a handful of times every year. Im not saying that these are going to replace a full on Lonestar LT kit,... but for the money, these are well worth it. So sorry if I misguided you all, and made you think I was trying to tell you that these are better then any total replacement kit out there, but I will say that these are a close 2nd. Id also like to add... the geometry of these bikes are not the best anyhow, we all know that. In fact, I still think the machine that had the best geometry and best balance ever, was the Tri Z. No matter how high, how far you jumped those babies, they would come down nice everytime.

Keep on trying to convience your self boys.. but I was ready to spend upwards of 1000 on a arms and aftermarket shocks just like most of you allready have. After installing just these, I dont even have a second thought of buying aftermarket shocks. As for the difficulty, the biggest part of it was lack of instructions for installing on a banshee. Mainly the upper shock mounts, trying to figure out which went where, and right side up or upside down. All you get in the package, was parts and stickers. And trust me, Im mechanically inclinded enough to figure easy stuff out. As for your bump steer argument... as Ive always said in the past with you "internet gurus", dont say a word until you have tried them yourselves. I have less bumpsteer now, then I did when it was with stock setup, and thats 100% truth. You guys crack me up, thinking you can look at a picture of something and know everything about them. Lay off the know it all shit, until you have experienced stuff first hand. So keep the trash talkin coming fellas, Ill keep riding the hell out of my shee. Any of you guys that want a cheap way to get a 100% better ride out of your shee, give these a try. She rides like my Cannondale Speed did with Ohlins now... super nice ride, still with stocker shocks.

I have one of the banshee kits, and I love it. (they do make them, just dont sell many because some people arent smart enough to install them) For the money I saved over aftermarket a arms, Im using to buy other goodies. They are safe, well built, and DO NOT increase bump steer ten fold like some "Ive tried it all, I know everything" previous poster stated. I was looking at other kits, like the Ishock kits with shocks and everything, but extending the a arms out, Im going to stick with my stocker shocks still up front because the entire machine feels totally different now. I dont know what it was, but the shee rides so much nicer now. It bolted right up, just had to notch the plastic in one small spot where the shock mounts are at. They dont have instructions posted online for the banshee, so it took me a little while to get it figured out correctly. Out of a 1 to 10 scale, 10 being the hardest, Id give this a steady 7, because of the tight fits. And the person who was worried about all the stress being on the bolts. All this kit does, is increase the number of bolts you have in the front end. Its just as strong as any regular A arm setup out there, just with 1/4 of the price tag. Im not even worried about hitting big jumps with this kit. The only way something is going to get tore up, is hitting a tree, but thats going to break anything you put on. Anyone else that has not tried, better yet even seen one of these kits wanna ask any questions Ill be happy to give you an experienced answer (instead of making stuff up to make myself feel better about spending $1200 on a "pro" setup) If anyone buys one and needs help or assistance installing, Ill be glad to help.

Have you tried just calling them or emailing them to find your answers?

bought some off ebay.. thanks

viper - for a banshee.. Ive only got 1 Tri Z left,.. Im outta the 3 wheeler game except for it. kaotik1 - Not really sure what color.. just feeling it out to see whats out there. Send pics of yours to midwesttrikers@yahoo.com metricmaster - yup, thats me. Why arent you coming on www.quadsnbeer.com ?? Aint seen you or Bob on there.

Show me what you have, and a price shipped to Kansas 67951. Pics are a must. Must be in good shape (nonwrecked, broke or woods ridden), NON painted if plastic. Fiberglass or plastic, dont matter to me. Tell me a price, and must be a complete set of front, rear, tank, grille the whole 9 yards.

how much for the rear hubs shipped to Kansas 67951