Animalman294

I want to get a set of 68 mm cubs, but I do a lot more trail and sand riding than I do racing. I don't want to have problems with the motor because it is designed to flat out run. I want the power when I do race, but I do not want to give up my trail and sand hill carving because of the motor being designed to race only. I read that these are also not bottlom end cylinder's, does that mean they are the same as stock or are they worse. If you have any info that may help - thanks in advance..........

I totally agree with the stickin' to what you know thing, but your friend may know how to rebuild any head you put in front of him. However, the reason these shops specialize in head porting is because they have (in most cases) been doing this for years and know how much material to remove from what part of the ports. Now I am not to familiar with what a port job entails with a two stroke Banshee motor, but I do know about porting a 302 ford mustang intake and heads. A friend of mine took his heads to his mechanic that built his racing motor, which he too said "hey I could do that". So, off to the builders he went and the heads came back with all this cool work done to them, and after the dyno test the heads only made about 5 hp more, which was pathetic. Well about a month later he thought he blew a head gasket. When the motor was tore down it was discovered that the cool port work had taken too much material from one of the inner walls and make the water jacket wall too thin and it ruptured. Moral to the story: the guy rebuilt engines and heads for a living, but not knowing how much material to take from what area (learned by years of experience) the heads were compromised. So, instead of it costing him $650 for the original port job, it cost him $1600 for new heads, and $550 for the new port job from a porting shop in LA, and Oh ya the original $650 for the port jobs on the old head. So it cost him more money to save money . Just my .02 ,but stick with a reputable port shop...........

I am not sure what caused my dads problem, but it is actually leaking from the rubber boot that covers the piston. I think he has a bad seal behind the piston and the boot isn't designed to hold the pressure so it leaks. back to my problem - Sand Demon may have something there, the only thing is there wasn't a lot of brake use prior to this happening. I think we were riding for about fifteen minutes when it happened. I checked the reservior and it is full, and I found no leaks from anywhere on the system, but there is no tension on the brake lever. I think I will try to bleed the lines, maybe there is air in it from an time about a year ago when the cap came off at sand mountain (MIA). I know I need a new rotor, but I am not sure about the pads. Any sugestions about brands of pads and rotors? Thanks for the help.............

I went ridin' this weekend and discovered that my rear brake locked in the closed position. The heat from the brake staying on warped the rear rotor into a nice salad bowl shape, so which kind of rotor do you guys recomend (cross drilled, the wavy kind) and which brand do you run with? I shouldn't have to change the front rotor's if I change the rear do I, they work fine? Then does anyone have any idea why this happened in the first place? When I first tried to push down on the rear brake lever it wouldn't budge. Then all of a sudden it released from being stuck and now there is no resistance but it is squeezing the rear rotor with the pads. So I may be able to just replace the rotor and call it a day. Was there ever a recall on the rear brakes for the banshee? Because my dad's 2000 also has a bad rear brake problem, fluid just started leaking out of it a few weeks ago. So if my bike doesn't have fluid leaking out of it then the piston in the caliper and the master cylinder are probably fine right? thanks for the help............

I am thinking about getting a Cheetah Cub motor, but am curious as to what other costs that I am going to have before it is all done (ie porting,head etc. etc)? I kinda' want to know what I am getting myself into financially before I comit myself. Otherwise my wife may comit me anyway .

What do you mean idle problems? What is wrong with the idle?

Ya, I didn't know if anyone would know where I was, but I live in Smartville and I work in Grass Valley and my wife works over in Brunswick. We go down to the Parkbar Bridge below 20, and I have been to the place on Hwy 65, and as far as Greenhorn, most of my remembrance of that place was looking through the bottom of a beer bottle . I was just trying to find someplace new to ride, but we haven't tried Holister yet. Yuba City below the 12th street bridge wants you to have full riding gear or they wont let you ride (what the hell fun is that), plus there are so many idiots out there that don't pay attention to who they are riding over, I'd rather take my chances out at Sand Mountain with 20,000 other drunk people. Whats Carnege like out side of Tracy?

I am near Yuba City California and am trying to find riding areas that are around here. I go to sand mountain a lot, but it is such a long drive and would like to find a place closer. Preferably sand, but some good dirt would be just fine............

So from the sounds of things I can probably run 100LL AVgas and be fine, but if I can run pump gas I should. Like I said I only checked into it not to run it all the time, but when I drop to 200' elevation and I get the 20cc domes and advance the timing I don't want detonation. When I am 1000' and higher I can run pump gas, and if I want to be on the safe side I could run 50/50.

Son-of-a-Biotch, I must have really been screwed I thought the R was for race, no wonder I lost to that little Raptor 80 I was in reverse

I was wondering about AV gas. Is the octane rating for it less than Race gas, because I can get it from the local airport for $2.90 a gallon versus the $5.00-$7.00 per gallon for race gas? I am buying a NOSS head and am getting 20cc domes so I need to go with higher octane. Plus it isn't that much more expensive than premium pump gas. So, I should be able to run this fuel either 50/50 or straight and be fine, or would there be something that I have to change? Another thing can I run AV gas in my wifes Raptor, and my daughter's Warrior or will this be a problem because they are four strokes? Riding areas are 200', 2400' and then 4000'. Thanks for the info.........

My brother just bought his wife a YFZ 450 plus $1000.00 in mods (ie. pipes, jetting, K&N) and we all went to sand mountain. I wasn't there when it happened, but my dad said my brother raced some guys up the face and got his ass spanked and handed to him on a platter. That was against stock Raptors and Banshees, but hey, maybe his jetting was off I don't know. They've only had the bike a few weeks and he is used to his mod'ed Raptor, which is also running like crap, coincidence - I think not. Baby brother needs to go back to school . Bottom line I wasn't impressed at all.............

Right now I have an '02 w/ Toomey T-5's, a K&N and the bike is jetted for this combo. I want to make my Shee run with bigger dogs, but don't want to have to run race gas. I don't have the money to put into it right now to run with the big dogs, but would be happy running against bigger ones. I run at about 800 feet down at the river, and then at about 4000 feet at Sand Mountain Nevada. I am putting a dial-a-jet on to help with making jetting a little easier with the change in elevation. I am thinking that I will put a Noss head on with 20 cc domes (or dlnoss can you enlighten me if I may need 21's), V-force reeds, and a adjustable timing plate and I want duneman to lighten my flywheel. I am trying to go faster and smooth out the power band a bit. Does this combo sound good for what I want to do (duning and trails) or would I be better off having the dune port? Thanks for the info..........

I know that the power band is a little high for the banshee, but what can I do to get rid of the lag time at the bottom end? I mean you start accelerating then all of a sudden it hits the power band. What can I do to get it more even from idle to mid throttle?

I was going to put in a set of V-Force Delta 2's and read that you are wasting your time if you have stock carb's. I have Toomey T-5's and a K&N filter, and wanted to do the new reeds. Is it going to be a waste of money until I change the carbs? I am also planning on installing a Noss head in the near future with 20cc heads.

Hey is anyone going to Sand Mountain this this coming weekend Feb 18th thru 21st? I guess at night it gets down to 24 degrees , but during the day it gets up to 45-50 degrees . Anyway we haven't been to the sand in quite a while and have been jone's 'en to play in the sand. Hey I guess the bright side is that if it is that cold there may not be that many people out there . (Get your own sand box). Just kiddin' , actually wanted to know if there were any other people going up? See ya there................

I have the T-5's and I think they are awesome pipes. I am kinda new to the sport, but when I bought my 2002 it already had the pipes on it . My Shee is stock right now and I was able to take my brother on his 96 that had a lot more engine work, up sand mountain NV. He did manage to get me about 3/4 of the way up, but still he is a lot more experienced rider than I am. It may just be riding style, but I still think they are great pipes. I was also talking to a guy out at sand mountain the last time that I went and he told me that the TR-6's have a cool look to them, but on his modified bike they weren't that great. In fact he said that his power curve looked a lot like the shape of the pipes. I don't know first hand about the T-6's, but the T-5's I can vouch for are great. I'm sure the T-6's are great pipes or Toomey wouldn't have designed them, but I think like the posts above say they are for good power for a stock or slightly modified bike. Just my opinion of course..........Got Sand?

You should contact Boonman by (PM). He has done quite a few flywheels on this site and everyone seems to be happy with his work. I think that I am going to try it myself, just for that little edge over the other sand racers. Drop him a line and see what he says...........

I am going to buy a Noss Head, but am unsure about what size domes to get. I still want to use pump gas, so I know I can use 21cc but would like to go to 20cc. Is there anyone out there with 20's or 21's, and if so can you post any info would be appreciated. I run at about 450 feet, and then go to sand mountatin Nevada about 4000 feet with a dial a jet i think i can run good.

I would like to find out if any one has tried the dial-a-jet system from Thunder Products, and if so how do you like it? Does it improve the overall power curve for the Shee? I hear it takes out the lean spots and gives a smoother throttle response. Any info would be appreciated thanks............Got Sand?

I have the T-5's and they are awsome. I was debating getting the T-6's , but I heard from a couple of people (just their opinion, not mine) that the T-6's if viewed from the side are shaped like their power curve. Those of you who own these pipes can correct me if this is wrong or right, but I do definately like the T-5's..............Got Sand?

What altitude do you run at regularly?

I would like to know how many people trail ride their Banshee's, and if they over heat. If they don't how is your bike set up for cooling. Sometimes I can go riding and the bike stays cool, and at other times the engine boils . Not Good. At this time I haven't even done any mods except for T-5's, but I figured I need to solve this problem first.