FasterTHENyou

Going to purchase come flat track/tt tires to run on a dyno. What do you recommend. Probably going to need something soft so that it will stick well to the dyno rollers. If anybody has anything also i would be interested in buying a set. Thanks

least you're honest about it andy

And it was so obvious with his 10 posts...get a grip

I dont think the xulw's make a big difference other then weight on asphault. You can hook a stock frame very well.

86.3 in the 100

if guys can launch bikes in dirt with 1.5's without needing a bar you will be able to as well. Shorten that back end up bud

yes ive seen their covers. But just because i dont hang from andy's nuts doesnt mean i hate on his stuff, direct drive just has nicer stuff. I mean, you cant argue that.

sucking the tire under you more will increase your 60'. A 1.5 is pretty weak for asphault.

PM with a price on the motor with year specs on the cylinders abuse of the motor ect.

just go direct drive and have the nicest looking covers on the market!

be certain your guy knows what he is doing with your crank. Cranks are without a doubt the most precise peice of equipment in a motor and when spinning at 10k you dont want that crank out of tolerance.

A lot of guys run studs through their tires to help them out in the grass.

prices?

nobody runs a 3.80 without a wheelie bar. Only bike you could possibly be talking about and that is dan hulls 14mm. But you arent dan and he still runs a bar. But you said you run asphault and all im saying is good luck hooking it up.

actually i just got off the sand today. I understand sand fully. My 1.4 and 1.5 60' times should vouch just nicely in that department. Id like you to ask buddy at southern style racing how he feels about a 14 over on the track, or dennis packard, or K&T, none of them run them on the track. Why? Because it creates too much wheel spin and that kills your 60' time. Only time you run one of them is without a bar. But being on asphault its manditory anyway on nearly every track. But if you guys dont believe me its no hair off my back and you'll just be buying one sooner or later. Ive been running the track for 2 years and have picked up a lot of knowledge on chassis setup. But like i say, if ya dont believe me its ok. Also, i dont know who built your frame, but a +13 in the back and +4 in the front is back assward engineering. Ive never heard of that and have never seen that. Think of it this way...a NHRA top fueler has the tires right behind the motor (heaviest part of the car) and its nose is stretched 8 feet in front. Same concept applies to sand drags and quads. Ask mike brookes of brookes chassis, and he'll break down all the physics behind it. You want the tire the closest to your ass as possible and still make it ridable. Cant figure out why Lonestar sells +12 in front chassis, or brookes sells +30 chassis, or metal tech, MP. Look at packards personal ridgeds...+8 in the back and +15 in the front. You obviously need a little work on that chassis and that is why a little 350 is giving you problems. Oh, and there is a HUGE difference between a +10 swingarm and a +14...

I already run an 825cc banshee with a 14 over arm and a 14 paddle 80RO SLS tire. Im going to go down to a 12 taller hauler with a 12 over to get more bite. If your running asphault you need to get rid of that 14 and put a 10 on with a bar. You're 60's are going to suck with that much bike hanging out the back.

yeah, dpack carbs. Got dem fo-tee fo's on my honda's too

maybe im just a little too used to drag racing and not having to use the stock pos carbs?

You might want the pants so the sand blasting that i give you wont hurt as bad.

The cdi is the brain of your ignition, it tells the coils when to fire based on the flywheel pickup. Switch the carbs around first and see if that is your problem, then check compression, then check electrical

Boy, i wont be the jerk that a lot of the other guys are so ill break it down slowly to you. A set of 43mm carbs is something a 550cc+machine would run. Not a gas 350. Your 405 isnt bored out. If your uncle was such an intelligent person he would know that he should keep the motor as small as possible to increase the transfer area. Lastly, the dyno you ran your 89hp on isnt giving true numbers. It takes a well running top of the line alcohol 350 to run a 90 horse pass. But if you feel the need to race my bikes have 44mm carbs on them and you can see the difference any time of the week.

Start around a 340 and see how it runs.

No, he has a fire problem. A dead cylinder can be caused by many things. switch your carbs around and see if the problem follows the carb. If it doesnt it is most likely an electrical problem, could even be your cdi

A good carb is the 33pwk.

tecates can actually make some hp. And yes, they can beat a mild ported/piped banshee